Fastrotor

Something no one has mentioned is that pressure in the exhaust can affect the reading too. Reading the techedge site, from what i can gather it seems it will actually read richer with pressure, can anyone else read and confirm. They don't actually say it from memory, but give a formula to work it out. Definately putting it in the O2 bung to do light load tuning and idle etc is much more responsive at low rpm's Also something to watch for, when using tailpipe method. If your pipe going into the exhaust can only go in on an angle, it can create a Bernouli ? effect, and suck air back up the pipe at low revs/load . And on some cars the exhaust pulsing can cause fresh air sucked in and dilute readingsat idle and very low rpm. Gary

Just to add to the wellwishers, congrats Dave. That is quite an amazing torque curve out of a 25. I can't believe how low in the revs your getting such big power ! Gary

My moneys on the injectors. Getting them to flow a certain rate is easy.... getting them to atomise like std ones once modded is the problem. You can get a certain afr your aiming for, but theres alot more fuel going in than required , as the unatomised stuff goes straight out the pipes. Case in point, bout 5 years ago i wired and dyno'd an SR20 for a mate, against my advice he got the stocker's flowed to 550cc ... and said the guy promised they atomized perfectly...... Anyway i maxxed them out, 100% ..... ok, car still ran fine, except once small transition area off boost, i could not get rid of a small hiccup, no matter what i tried.... anyway left it there. Month later i did another SR20 but this time guy used some factory 550cc injectors, made the same power, same fuel pressure (i always fit a gauge). ....... however............ only using 70% duty cycle. I was expecting a difference but not that much ! It opened my eyes quite abit. Gary

actually the G4 (cough ViPec), has 8 injector outputs and 4 ignition, of which it uses 3 in wastespark mode. (yes you can use the two spare inj outputs, one is actually used for your idle solenoid) Also, be aware as of this time, the G4/Vipec only has open loop boost control. Supposed to be a firmware update soon to add closed loop, but then it will need to be tested to compare to standalone. Also it has an expansion connector inside for wiring in other stuff if your so inclined. I've got my Link G4 setup with Turbine Inlet Pressure, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, And Wideband AFR. It has 2 digital inputs spare of which i use one for an 4D overlay Ignition retard table based on RPM and TPS, that allows my custom auto controller to pull timing on shift which varies with throttle position and the second is a simple switch input for anti-lag .... and now that i use a Gizzmo boost controller, i have 3 spare Aux output still to come up with something for. (One is scheduled for the water injection), and i'll have to struggle to come up with two other things to use the other 2 for. So yeah, there a pretty good bit of gear for a 'cheapie' , apparently ! Gary

240 rwkw on a compliance cat ?!@ wow. Did you happen to check your exhaust BP ? Be some power hiding in there hopefully, once clutch is fixxed. Gary

Is that you and your car in boost Anthony ? I assumed so since adrian did the article ? (With the gizzmo Kmon) ??

Is Yours 4WD Tangles ? Nice gain, and still alot left in that turbo. What stopped you pushing it up to 18psi odd ? Gary

And thats just the start of it mate

Thats a nice gain Basti ! Yeah unless the original BOV was leaking....... won't make a difference.

Got it all back together and running. I've really got to replace that stupid fuel pump asap. Yeah im lazy. I have wired in Fuel pressure sensors and oil pressure sensors now as well as the Turbine inlet sensor so i will have alot more data to keep an eye on for probs in future. I also want to plumb the stupid screamer pipe back in asap also, its pissing me off, on dyno and road. Anyway, the .82 housing as expected lost power everywhere over the .63 except top end. But im not jumping off a bridge just yet until i get boost control sorted. The Link G4 doesnt have active boost control yet, supposed to be coming out in next firmware...... but im thinking of just getting a gizzmo for now, sick of waiting and its a real pain. So Fix Boost control, Fix fuel pump running out of puff and being possibly erratic, and fix screamer. Then i'll start playing with cam timing on exhaust. Anyway, the result was 316 rwkw , but this was gained mainly by playing with the VCT. Was 282rwkw with VCT on fully, found best crossover at 5500 rpm (6000 best but needed time to engauge) ... this gained 30+ rwkw !..... but practically useless since its over 6000 rpm..... on a 7K limit car ! The graph was still going up so if i could rev it more, probably another 15 in it. But i won't be tempted since its still stock. If i cannot bring up the mid with exhaust timing and proper boost control, i'll swap back to the .63 and play more. Fix all the stupid crap i should have done ages ago then i'll see how it goes. Gary

Pauls definately will, verns will be very close.

Thanks for that, didn't know it existed ! Gary

Hey Phil, can you post up the actual excel file so people can graph in there cars to compare. ??

Thats some nice gains there with the cams and head work Phil. I was wondering when i'd see a post from you.... saw the car out front of tms a few days back. .! How does it feel on the road now ? I just got mine all back together tonight..... man what a fun job pulling the head is. Be a week or so before i get on the dyno. Gary

back in the early 90's i had a wheel come off my capella. It was the most terrifying moment watching the wheel bounce off down the road. Luckily for me there was no people in the way, but there was a car park full of cars.... and the wheel was bouncing high, i though oh god, its going to hit 5 or more cars here .... but thank god it hit a sign a business had put out on the footpath ! I was able to retrieve and using a scissor jack, got car off ground and bolts wheel back on (there was 2 wheel studs still in wheel), and drive it off the road until a flatbed came. It was a case of putting nuts on , but forgetting to tighten them. Ever since i've been fastidious about tripple checking them. I remember 5-8 years ago a woman in Brisbane just dropped her child off to daycare and walked out going back to car, and a trucks outer bogie wheel broke off and bounced over and hit her. She died instantly. So bloddy sad..... So, eveyone double, tripple check you nuts ! Gary

That would be great Trent, thanks. But i can't help asking , how does he switch the valve open, (ie solenoid, stepper etc ?) Once turbo valve is open, i assume you can't turn the super off , as i assume air would try to flow back out thru the super( turning it backwards i assume, not sure if this is possible in a positive displacement charger????) So even thought the super is outflowed by the turbo once above operating speed, i assume the super is kept on just to stop air coming out,(hence your comment on top end Hp loss) and i guess its airflow would add to the total flow anyhow since its positive displacement ??? Oh, and how does the turbo go with its surge limit when spooling into a closed throttle ? He could add another valve that recirculated the air back into the front of the turbo to make it spool up quicker.... like the S6-7-8 rx-7 does with the bigger of its twins. Lots of assumptions on my part.... am i close ? Gary

Oh so this is a real rb30ET not a 3litre 25/26 !! Wow, thats cool. Does anyone remember, maybe zoom mag about 5+ years ago , they had a RX-323 with a 13B Turbo, with a SC14 clutched on side as well, running haltech too using a throttle body being switched somehow. Can't remember exact details, but it used positive switching throttle plates. Trent, how does old mates valve work ? Gary

Sorry to keep posting in your thread, but where did you get the copy M-spec bar from ? Hows the fit ?

Who sells the ATI's in OZ Trent ? They do a rb25 one too ? What price ? Gary

I rarely comment on pics, but mate........ thats a really amazing engine bay. Not only just neat, but everything looks 'engineered' really well so to speak. Congrats !! And that is a nice beanie, look better than most out there. Did you happen to actually measure before /after temps ? Gary

Cmon, its nearly May , must have played with it by now !?

thanks Michael, I'll just block off the middle one. For the sake of .1mm im not going to touch the rear one... plus in SK's oil restrictor guide, he reccomends std vct, block middle and 1.5mm rear ..... so its already below that. And in combo with the rear oil drain, should be well and truly fine. Gary

So what is the consensus on the stock RB25DET S1 oil restrictor size ?? I mean everyone just seems to assume and go on what they have heard..... who has measured ?? ..... Specifically for me, what is the std VCT oil restrictor size. ??? I guess i could still block the middle off and leave the rear 1.3mm restrictor. But i am concerned the VCT is too small.... And also just keen to know if S1 std is not the same as what i have,.... which would throw another spanner in the works. ! Gary

Ok experts....... got a weird one......... Just to be prudent before i machine up some bungs, i though id measure the little bores to make sure mine was 6mm, as i take nothing for gospel , espeially when its a 1min job. Now 6mm is fine, but then i though, as i did initially, the restrictors look small..... In The RB oil thread only ONE guy mentions this ....... i found ALL 3 of my restrictors are about 1.3 mm ......... No one replied to him....... so im not sure if its std or not ..... Im just worried the VCT isnt getting enough... Gary

Is your GTR bar a rea lone or a copy designed to fit the r33 joey ? Is there decent urethane stuff out there ?? Gary