Fastrotor

Sure can mate. You can trim each cylinder individually using either a single amount OR using a full 3d map, and you can set the X & Y axis to be whatever you want it to be.....Go LINK ! Gary

Just for info sake, you said you bought a new Msports bar..... you mean as in new new , from nissan ??? How much if so..... Gary

This is all relative too... depends on the turbo you are running too, a turbo thats maxxed out with lots of turbine inlet pressure can cause larger cams to drop power.

Here is the rear of the factory one...... you could quite easily mill out the slots more if you wanted. Gary

Usually get underway about 3pm ish, sometimes earlier depending on numbers. Finish around 9-10pm once again depending on numbers.

Let us know how it goes for ya. I just dropped my head into bondy's today to get skimmed. Oh and yes, the sprints are on this weekend Phil. Gary

I hadn't read the thread yet as i only posted this to show what i saw and ask if it was stock or not. I initially had no plans to add the restrictors. Upon reading SK's threads first few pages and from alot of suggestions to do it from you guys, i'm going to block off the center feed only. Im not going to restrict the rear one, as i figure halving the supply is enough in combo with the rear head drain i have coming. Coupled with the std pump, and std rev limit. I feel this is a reasonable compromise. I have some copper welding tips here close to 6mm i can sand down to fit (using a drill to keep round) , then solder up the center hole. Easy. Gary

Thanks for the tips. I can whip up a restrictor myself no probs. The oil drain im using is a shrink fit into welch plug hole. So you guys are that concerned for my motor, totally stock top end, 7K factory limit...... you really want me to go restrictors , ie its that close to a problem ?? I have hydralics still and VCT ..... so there is only the 3 restrictors to do ?? I assume i'll leave the vct one as is, and reduce the other two. ? What size are std , 1.8mm rogue ?

Oh well, so be it. It hasn't blown up in 16 years street and two years + racing, i just see the rear drain as an additional help. And honestly i really just dont like the idea of limiting the amount of oil the factory deemed necessary. Just my personal preference. And i dont rev it over 7000 , which i assume makes a difference ? Gary

Yeah i track my car also, just on a small circuit up here. Haha first round is next saturday !, wonder if i'll make it .... This is just a head off operation.... You do need head off (or motor out) to fit the rear oil drain. Im getting it off Tufrx3 on here.... nice bit of gear. I don't rev mine past 7000, but it still concerns me abit. But hasn't died in two years of racing it .... I'll do pics when done..... Check the "automatic performance thread" for pics and updates. Gary

Ah ok, thanks for the clarification Darren. Im not going to put any in , but i have the rear oil drain back to sump on its way up here. I just wanted to check if they were std. Gary

Just to add some pics to this VCT repository, as its one thing to hear a description, but when i was looking for info i never saw one pic of the VCT stuff. Enjoy ! Front VCT actuator with the plate and big cam bolt removed Back of the VCT pulley.... note the slots in the bolts holding inner to the gears....this is the adjustment possible people mention. Inside showing where it slides onto the cam. Small inner slot is for the alignment pin. 4 larger slots are for oiling the cam as the outer part rotates on the cam when the actuator advances. Mine was scratched on the cam, possible causing my sticking problem... Looking at cams without the pulleys VCT oil holes. These provide the oil to the actuator and lube the cam journal. When on oil comes from one hole and turns actuator on, when off oil drains back thru other hole. (switched by the VCT solenoid) I have to assume then, when off the cam journal doesn't get an active oil feed ?? Those oil holes feed into the cam ....see the hole in the middle of the journal .... And then up thru the cam bolt into the front cover (hence the o-ring used)

Hi guys, just removed the head to fix a blown gasket, and i noticed three oil restrictors in the head. I just wanted to clarify if these are standard ? I was under the impression from all the talk of fitting restrictors to limit oil buildup in the head meant there wasnt any at all to begin with .. Was i assuming incorrectly , and you guys just modify them by fitting smaller orifice ones ? Gary

Got the head off finally this arvo, holy crap what a pain in the arse job.... the head itself is fine,,, its removing all the other crud off the side of it ! The gasket at No6 is blown bad.... other than that it all looks good, no scenes of destruction , yay ! Heads booked in to be skimmed tomorrrow. Anyway, some pics for you guys. Nice clean inlet port Cyl 6 inlet port with blown headgasket, can you tell the difference Its obvious which plug is No6 The Culprit !!

So hows the head going ? reckon it was worth it all ? to me it seems more suited to a larger turbo, but for under 300 not really worth it. What about off boost responce or fuel eccon , anything change ? Noticable fueling changes in any areas ? Gary

Phil you keep mentioning antilag like its a selectable feature on the MT ?? Have i missed something here ? The aux revlimiter, combined with the + or - fuel and + or - timing is basics needed, but there isnt a special feature that allows setting tps thresholds , timers etc etc .. I only ask as your talking like its a selectable feature on the MT, just making sure its not something new... You'd love a new G4 Link plugin for things to tinker with ! Makes the MT look archaic, and im being nice. Gary

With your MT it just senses the Aircon clutch line to trigger the aux input, then add's some extra air via the idle solenoid, adds some fuel and adds 2 deg of timing. Purely for keeping the idle nice really. There is no full throttle cutout, unless its built into the factory wiring, which it is not from memory...... So unlike more capable computers, the aircon will stay on.. (unless you have piggybacked it to the std ecu ????) Anyway, its pretty limited, but you would just drop the rpmlimit "inpRPMlim" to suit what you need , and id play with the timing "inpTiming" , retarding it some to aide boost to build on the limiter. I would set the "inpAIRadd" to 0 (as its not enough for proper antilag, and for launch control , your flat out on the throttle already.) Probably leave fuel "inpEnrich" alone too... or add abit . Be prepared to change a few plugs as you foul them trying to get it all right. Guilttoy could share some figures of timing retard and fuel add as he has it running on his car and is more authoritative than i on the subject ..... guilt ??... Gary

Just ordered a cometic head gasket and some ARP head bolts, be here friday. I'll get head off friday, and its already booked in for monday to get skimmed. Gotta add exhaust cam gear to order first thing tomorrow. Hopefully running by end of next week. ! Gary

Thanks mate...... yeah i dont care about the wiring of airbag, as ill probably just remove it internally either way its not going to be used. I just want it for the tiptronic switches on the wheel, as i made my own custom auto controller with "tiptronic" as they call it, and though this would be a great idea over custom , and still look factory. I'll keep eye out for PM. Thanks Gary

Will this fit an R33 S1 non airbag ? (dont care about the electrical side of things , ill sort that, just physical fit..... if so can you get a hires pic of the actual wheel you have. I assume those pics are for a demo of what the wheel looks like, not the actual one you have ? Gary

Ah just so it lined up with all my other runs over the years. I did do a 3rd gear run without the lockup to try it, and it was fine, same power . So slip isnt a problem, is that what concerns you Darren ? Didn't get a chance to run in 3rd with lockup on before head gasket went. Gary

Damn, i stuffed my thread above, posting same pic twice and not the dyno chart..... and since i cant edit it anymore...... here is dyno chart You can see how shi*tful my boost response is with the VCT not turning on down low......

A Shift kit replaces your valve body in the auto with one modified to increase line pressure, and to reduce the time betweer shifts (ie firmer and faster) . This helps alleviate slipage and gives you the lighting fast changes instead of the drawn out sluggish changes most have with a std auto in a car with extra power. Gary

Ah ok. Yeah the MT's are a pain when your running close to 20psi .... as i won't let a car go without the map cut enabled, so you need a small leeway before it hits max to use it. You should measure Turbine Inlet Pressures to see where the GTRS is at, at least give you a easy indication if much more is avail...... might not be worth it until you step up in turbo. I got 272 rwkw on a 3500 histall auto yesterday, but the 135K std head gasket finally let go. Also the VCT isnt working down low, and killing my boost response. How did you rate your head work ? I think i'll just get a good head gasket and bolt it all back on. Just weld up the VCT to full advance, and should get bottom end back and im happy with top end. Gary

Obviously you would have to run a normal (non split pulse) manifold, and a split pulse turbine housing ....... when closed all the exhaust gas is re-directed thru one side, generally 1/2 A/R of total housing rating. So spool up would be same as a much smaller housing, and top end of the larger housing. There would be a slight restriction to the runner with the plate in it obviously, and so i would say power could be slightly lower , top end. Depends on how hard the housing is working to make the power you are at. As i mentioned , this was a factory setup on the S4 Rx-7. It however , used a setup more akin to a wastegate flap, not a butterfly. I wonder what materials they used, as that flap looks quite thin. You'd think there could be probs with it sticking too with the huge heat range it would be getting. Gary