Fastrotor

No, if you have 1.2bar, then both turbos are pumping 1.2 bar. The total mass airflow will double however. (assuming everything is equal for sake of this argument) Gary

Any updates ?

Well...... good news and bad news..... Good news is that my VCT Actuator is not moving and therefore killing my low end power and giving me horrid lag times...... Other good news is i got power up to 272RWKW ... not bad considering 3500 Stall converter ! Bad news is that i found the limit of the 135,000 Km motors std head gasket. Blown into the coolant gallery. ..... Oh well Not sure why the mph last sat was so crap....... oh well figure that out after i rebuild the top end. The custom auto controller is working perfectly now though. Will have to start writing the software for full auto control now that hardware seems stable. Oh, and i logged the piping and cooler loss , and got a max of 1.5psi (so as i though my sensors must be slighly out of cal) Gary Fuel was just 98, no wynns .. must edit that one day... oh and its obviously a 6cyl MAP2 is manifold, MAP1 is off turbo front cover.

Just look at the Series 4 Rx-7 .............. It had this setup from factory ! Gary

Did crap Peter.... best of a 13.2@108 2.3sec 60' However, i found out why i was having to run high timing with the new G4. I was still timing it off the loop, and with wastespark it seems to trigger early, so timing it off a plug lead (custom short one i got made up specially for the job) and voila... 12 deg retarded..... so i set it to 0 off the plug lead and then just pulled out same timing off top end maps . So technically it should have worked fine, but power was down, boost was down and needed the duty cycle increased to get it to 20psi...... so should get on dyno tomorrow to check it all out. Auto controller worked well this time.... i need to lower the torque reduction time on shift, as its abit long. I think i *MIGHT* of found the problem........ using a timing light , with the timing lock on, i looked at the intake cam through the oil filler... Switching on the solenoid (VCT) didnt make the cam move much at all...... I turned the output on permanently in the link, so i could just plug it on and off without changing revs, and it showed a SLIGHT idle change(audible), and looking really hard there seemed to be a slight movement..... certainly not 20 degrees !!!! Im SO hoping this is the problem with sh*t bottom end lag .......... Only reason im not 100% is with wastespark , you get two pulses per cam revoloution, so the pic looks ghostly, so i won't claim it yet...... going to try with a snapon timing light so i can dial back, to bring the flash more to when the lobe is tallest...... easiest to see movement then. Stay tuned. ! Gary

Hey, when moving the cam bolt with your wrench (i assume you mean remove intake cam front plate with the 4 * 6mm bolts and put a socket onto the single cam bolt directly ????) Anyway, if thats what you moved, was the movement clockwise smooth ????? Or , with lots of sticking points. ? Return, anticlockwise smooth ??? Just want to check mine against someone else... mine is very sticky going clockwise.... reasonably smooth return. Oh and yes, its meant to. When oil flows into it, it advances the cam 20 degrees. Gary

Just a note for those running an RB25DET or similar , where you get timing off the Primary loop at the ignitor. I noticed i had to change the offset alot on the G4 to get the timing to the 0 mark when aligning ...... Guilttoy was the same it seems ...... And maps took a fair amount more timing on boost. tried several timing lights to confirm and seemed all good. However tonight i timed it off the coil directly with a short custom lead i made up for testing coilpacks...... And low and behold it was close to 10 degrees retarded !! So i retimed off the coil and then pulled same timing out of top end maps...... I guess it wont make a diff to top end power, but low end might if your used to running a certain timing and didnt up it .... Anyway, for your info........... and for guilttoy to check ! Gary

2rismo, No i dont think so mate... its a screamer and i can hear when it starts to crack, at about 7-8 psi ... I make 10psi by 4700 !!!! on a To3 Stage 3 with .63 A/R ... Just checked cam timing, and all good.... see my VCT thread. So , im not sure whats left.... I've measured most things ! One thing i will do is plumb in the second 100psi sensor this arvo and log the fuel pressure to be sure... even though a gauge on there now seems fine...it could be out of cal, plus mech gauges wont see sharp small spikes. Also, hopefully my auto controller works tonight, i added filtering to the tps input so line pressure should now be stable. Auto shenanigans is one of my last hopes. Going to drags tonight, so at least see where the car is at... Gary

Thanks for the info mate. Hey, if anyone has tried, please comment.... I noticed when rotating the cam and advancing it, it was VERY stictiony (ie got stiff in multiple locations while advancing) ... letting it come back (retard), was alot smoother..... Is this common , or has anyone been able to smoothly advance it ?? I did check another parts engine, and it was abit more sticky than mine on advance, but i figure if someone with a working car had same probs, then its as its meant to be. I am just chasing a bad lag problem, taking till 4700 to make 10psi (to3 stage 3 turbine and .63 a/r rear) Turbo guy says it shoud be on at mid 3's and results on this site from guys with similar indicate same..... so i thought maybe vct is taking its time to engage... Anyone offer any help / experience with this ? Gary

Just note, the anomalities were only on closing, and as mentioned, only over the very last 15 thou odd of lift, so i wrote it off as a bad setup on my part possibly...... opening and max lift were very well defined. Gary

Problem with the microtech, is you cant save the maps to a laptop. ... working on fixxing this with a hardware soloution mate... Gary

Hey guys, Just though i'd put some info in a post for anyone down the track looking, as when i searched, there was no info on exactly how much advance the VCT adds. I was degree'ing my std cams, looking for a bad lag problem, and i pulled the VCT cover and put a socket onto the cam nut and advanced the cam manually and then re- degree'd it all The Advance the VCT adds is 20 Degrees. The readings i got for the std rb25det S1 cams are. (NOTE :- Don't take these as gospel please, was just a quick check over. There was some weird stuff, as both intake and exhaust seems to close 30 degrees later than the factory specs indicated..... but it was only a tiny amount over quite a few degrees, so i just put the factory number working it out of 240 degree cams as per the manual) All TDC references on the intake cam reference the compression stroke TDC Intake Opens at TDC (vct off) Intake Opens at 20deg ATDC (vct on) Max lift at 120 ATDC (vct off) Max lift at 140 ATDC (vct on) Intake closes 240 ATDC (vct off) see note (270 actual to totally closed) Intake closes 260 ATDC (vct on) see note (290 actual to totally closed) All exhaust TDC references to the Exhaust stroke TDC Exhaust opens at 240 BTDC 50 thou lift opening at 215 BTDC Max lift at 117 BTDC 50 thou lift closing at 25 BTDC Exhaust closes at TDC see note (30 ATDC actual to fully closed) Let me know if anyone disagrees. Gary

Its been a while , anymore findings Roba ? Gary

Who has the std cam specs ???

External 45mm Tial now. Boost response never changed from internal to external. I made up a 4" ss pipe with a stainless dome and bolted into place of air filter, and found PCV hose cracked... and another pipe unbunged, but it made no difference. God, i would be over the moon to get 3500 full boost ..... Its pretty much been crappy since i got it, even all stock i could never get it to stall as high as most guys were saying there's would go to ...... The cam pulleys all line up correctly, however i remember reading , perhaps R31Nismoid mention that the VCT is adjustable or moveable on the rear somehow..... so need to look at it. I know with my VCT, its pretty much a waste of time having it off (no power to sol).... i switch it on at 1500. With it off i can barely make ANY boost on stall....... Its pretty much seems to just make it idle a TAD smoother. I dont switch it back off anymore, used to at 6000, but was getting wavy power lines, and saw URAS mention to set it higher to stop wavy power...... (rev lim 7K on mine anyhow) So i'll chase this down , as it may affect TIP as well....before i go changing turbines and A/R's chasing top end. Anyone know the std cam specs so i can check ??? Gary

Mine now has a full 4" inlet to it, about 6" straight.... top mount might get 10" ..... One thing i didnt mention with mine is an ongoing problem also, is the crap boost responce... as in only 10psi at 4700 rpm ! Its going by 4800 when driving it.... and i noticed on dyno it was around this late coming on just looking at it .... and my data verifies this. (turbo guy says should be going by mid 3000's easy) Better Boost controll will make this better, however, my car has been very flat low down from the beginning really.... So , pulling cam covers this weekend , probably after drags , to see whats in there and do some measurments and go from there. It never ends. Gary

Just another update. I've finally got the sensor plumbed in to measure Turbine Inlet Pressure. I did some testing last night and by the results, the average MIP to TIP ratio is about 2:1 This is while not running full boost (20psi). The boost control in the LINK G4 is currently open loop, and i didnt bother messing with it to get back to 20.... Going on the injector duty cycle max of 63%, shows its abit lower than the full power 73% inj duty on dyno. So its only going to get worse when full boost is run. This points to my problem i'd say, why im just flattening off in the power stakes. So i have a decision to make. Whether to go to a .82 A/R housing, or go to a larger turbine wheel and keep the .63. Currently have the T03 Stage 3 turbine, and i could move up to the new F1 series turbonetics wheels..... Going to speak to John at Turbo Supplies today ! Here is an Excel spreadsheet with my logged data, and the graph all setup to show TIP vs MIP plus other parameters of interest. Im not sure how it compares to others (im sure those who log could work it out), but when doing the run, i calculated from the data i did 12Kph to 146Kph in 8.64 sec . Would this be reasonably quick ? I also did ALOT of calcs, to figure out i traveled 163 meters in that time. (assuming i got it right!) I hope to dyno it again soon, to firstly try out the auto in 3rd, with and without the LOCKUP clutch on. And also then i can get a full boost run to measure TIP again. Gary TIP Testing.xls

There is a pic of your car in the latest "Boost" magazine isnt there ? Looks fantastic ! Super impressed. Gary

Any update's mate ? Gary

Wow, some nice work there mate ! Ahhhh yeah i forgot the Tial V-bands are Male-Female..... damn... shame they done make them as a set. I did find some 2" ones out of the U.S Might just have to import a few i think. Gary

Turbine Inlet Pressure. Anothers words, measure the pressure in the exhaust manifold. This will give you the info to work out the MIP to TIP ratio ( boost to exh mani pressure) , If its over 2:1 then your in trouble. With high exh backpressure, due to small turbo housings or restricted exhaust, larger overlap cams just give it more time to pollute the intake charge more, and drop the knock point, resulting in less power. Hence why changing to a larger exh housing generally allows more timing to be added, due to less intake charge poluting. If you've run out of things to check, this is the ultimate thing to check to check the turbo sizing to the job your asking it to do. Bit of an effort , but its quality data when you get it. Gary

Measure the TIP , if turbos out of puff and TIP is high, larger cams with more overlap can cause power to go backwards. Gary

Yeah i guess so for those , but its something to keep in the tool box forever once its done...... i should make a heap up and sell them i think ! I do far to many cars to not have one with me..... and ALL dyno shops should have one anyway ! So easy to just whack it in and log on a second map channel. ! Hey i just re-read your comment and you said "you've gotta get a pressor 'sensor'" ...... all i mean is make up an adaptor (18*1.5mm thread to hose barb adaptor, and using some silicon hose , plumb it to a spare, or your current, "BOOST" gauge ...) ...can't get much simpler than that ! Gary

Im in the same boat mate, and i have looked around alot and can't seem to find 2" ones...... seems 2.5" is the more available one..... i want to v-band my external wastegate pipe, but was looking to have to increase it to 2.5" before it joins exhaust so i can get clamp to fit.... One 2" clamp id love to get would be if TIAL released there 2" in a kit.... they seem nice. I guess you could order a spare set of tial ones , with just twice as many weld on flanges to make up a standalone v-band clamp.... im going to try that way for cost i think. Gary

PM-R33 , I just gutted a "magic" cat on my R33 also. It had collapsed on the turbo side, you could just pick it looking at it, the wavy metal had slumped into each others curves. Easiest way to check cat and whole exhaust restriction is to make an adaptor up that screws into your O2 sensor port, and measure the exhaust backpressure. When my cat collapsed, i had 7psi BP. Gutting it got it down to 3.2psi. (on 257 rwkw big stall auto (over 300rwkw if manual est) ) Obviously you got your head back ! Gary