Fastrotor

So how do you dyno a jetski ?? Gotta be very happy with that gain for sure ! These guys are in my town up here in the north Gary

Not sure mate, most of the thread is still stuck in the oil filter. It would be std skyline. The mount has that big ass can on the side with the hose pipe going to it..... and ribbing. I assume its a cold engine bypass ... never really looked into what it does. (do you have a pic of it ???) I'll be phoning around locally today to see if there is one up here.... surely someone has wrecked an rb25 block ! Also buying a 3 prong oil filter remover !!! SS , yeah mate, no gain at all....... but mine and haines are autos, so i wouldn't panic just yet for your manual. To me, to not see a gain means something else is already at its airflow limit.... but then again it could just be Auto voodoo .... case in point, haines has 244 rwkw, using 480cc's (not sure the duty) , im on 257 rwkw and was maxxing the 550's at 6000rpm (now 740's at 73%) Looking forward to hearing your results. Gary

waiting with baited breath....... Hope YOU get some results.... my personal car was 7psi ! , gutted the magic cat, and dropped to 3.2psi ..... gain ? NOTHING. Hence why im still scratching my head....... Just plumbed in a 100psi stainless sensor via silicon to the turbo manifold to measure TIP..... Would know by now but unfortunately in my rush to change oil filter, i broke off the oil filter mount thread !!!!!!! Arrrggg.... Gary

Haha, yeah sorry mate, i guess i worded my reply badly. I did mean to ask if it was the minor probs i posted or something else someone posted , not just say "what probs" ! Sorry, didn't mean to frighten anyone ... i just can't help talking indepth tech.. you get that way after 20 years in electronics ! But in all honesty, they are a great product, you won't regret getting one. obviously your installer & tuner should be consulted if your not doing the job, and see if there happy to use them. Gary

What dramas ? There are no major dramas with the LINK/ViPEC . Little very minor stuff you would never notice as end user, but its always being updated with new features and things get fixxed. But if your not that technically minded and don't want to play with it yourself, why not just go see your tuner and ask what he would like to use..... as in the end of the day, to you, the end result is what matters. But i still say get one. From a tuners point of view i can say there bloddy brilliant. Ive used LINKS since the early ones and this is the first one i've got really excited about...and still am ! Gary

If you use PWM you won't be needing a relay and resistor, just an single channel "ignitor" would be necessary to controll the large currents possible. The link can quite happily do this and has a 3d map based pwm outputs as well.... and you can specify what ever you want to be the axis's of said 3d map .... boost*rpm or %inj duty*rpm ect ..... Any ecu will need an external ignitor channel to control the pump. So...... no need to ditch the Link/Vi-pec Seriously, its really an impressive bit of gear. Gary

You could use an aux output set to pwm to control the pump that way, but you would still need an external driver (ie ignitor module ) to drive the heavy current loads a pump would use. Show me any ECU that can control pump speed out of the box directly. And whats so hard about a relay and resistor ??? Gary

The ViPec/ LINK G4 just use two auxilary outputs. They are configured as fuel pump for one, to switch on, and the other is configured as Fuel Pump Speed. This is activated when a set revs is reached (and or %Inj Duty cycle ). The switching obivously needs a relay with a resistor inline with the pump to be able to switch it in and out as needed. As in most factory efi setups for the last 20+ years. Gary

Link confirmed the logging discrepancies between ecu and pclink logging as i mentioned above are a problem they are working on. Gary

Haha ok Rob, you win ! By a long way ! Very impressive mate. I've mounted the barb into the HKS manifold ready to log once i get time. I did get a quick chance tonight to pull the cam pulley cover off and verify cam timing. I pulled no1 plug and checked TDC was aligning with the factory mark correctly too. Alas, its all aligned spot on.... so scratch that one too. I did look at cam through the oil filler, and it had a big "N" on it in white marker , and the big scollop was all white inside it too... this a factory marking ? Gary

I did the first test fit of my custom auto gearbox controller last night, and had a few probs, so it gave me a chance to measure and recheck all the parameters of the solenoids and various switches etc etc , and also work out what two wires were i somehow missed the first time i went through it... So a fair few hardware mods to the pcb today and a rewrite of the basic software and i tried again tonight. Went better this time, but needs alot of software changes yet. But this time it selected gears correctly and set line pressure as well. I'm just making it full manualised for now, just to get it working and to see what the box likes etc .... once all sorted i'll go into the full auto side of it. I've setup the "snowmode" switch to be able to switch on the lockup clutch once in 3rd or overdrive. Boy it kicks in fast ! Can't wait to try a blast in 3rd when i lock it up !! I've mentioned it before, but for those that don't know, my circuit board is a perfect match for the factory one in size and shape, so it fits inside the factory housing. I just desolder the factory blue header connector off the board and onto mine, and this makes it a plug and play application ! I bought all the adaptors for the pressure sensor (1/4 bsp) to be able to hook into exhaust, and also a T setup for later on logging fuel pressure , but was too tired to plumb it in tonight. Gary

But do you know what the cut is set at in the haltech ? perhaps it was set too close to the mark, and the difference isnt noticable to you on the gauge ? Can't hurt to try turning it down a couple of pound just for a test, if you've run out of other things to try that is. Gary

Could just be over boosting abit in the cooler air and hitting the boost limit .... have you noticed the gauge when driving being a tad higher ? If you have access to the boost controller / bleed valve etc , try turning it down abit to see if it help. Gary

No Probs, hope you find your problem. I know what its like, im going thru the same thing with mine ! Gary

No probs, just use a silicon hose or something abit higher temp ..... its only in there for a couple of pulls , or runs on the street. Just give it abit of length to keep the heat from the gauge. Been doing this for years, easy to catch dying cats with. Just did my own skyline recently, suspected dying metal cat, sure enough 7psi ! .. gutted it to get 3.2psi ! Just hook it up to a second map channel on the dyno and you can graph it along with the power curve. Gary

Cmon Mafia, i though you'd have a spare boost gauge lying around..... just make up an adaptor for the O2 port and measure the Backpressure. Good tool to have in the tuning arsenal. Gary

Mini Update. I plumbed the 2nd map sensor into the turbo comp cover outlet and logged the difference between that and the manifold, and there is not much difference at all. For the most part they track very close, and at the top the manifold actually goes a little bit higher than the turbo, not sure if its technially possible (possible due to temp drop from cooler) , but its most likley a small calibration difference. So either way, cooler and 2.5" piping is FINE. Next step is wiring in the 100psi sensor and a long hose to the exhaust manifold........ Gary

So then using launch control that just slowly raises the rev limit would be ok since its not "reactive" , just a constant rpm increase from launch rpm limit to full rpm limit ?? If not also... then why not just play with boost level on transbrake to find a sweet spot tyres can handle ? Are you allowed boost control per gear ??? Gary

Guys, I was just out playing with comp, pulling logs etc ... and i noticed 2 problems... When i log on the PC inside PCLink, no problems at all with all values displayed. However, when i use ECU logging and then play back one of the downloaded logs, the Wastegate DC reads whatever value the solenoid is last at when you logoff PCLink to run the playback. Normally this is 0, but i lowered all the lockout values etc to get it showing a value at idle, just to verify, and sure enought that constant value is in the ECU logs. Also, i use Analogue 4 as a GP Pressure (link 2.5Bar) using CAL5 . Logs fine in pclink logging, 100kpa with engine stopped, as it should..... but ecu logging shows a value of 10 ... Anyone had issues with discrepancies between the two logging methods ?? Im heading over to the link forum now to post these issues. Just thought id mention it here for general info incase you come across it. Gary

Use launch control / traction control with the transbrake ? I have only a couple of times ever been able to stall up enough to get off the line reasonably quick with the ET streets... think there was some vht down ! (R33's have VERY weak rear brake bias it seems ...im looking into an upgrade valve for master) So i am going to try launch controll to get boost up, then limit slip as it moves off..... not having the timing into it at launch to get the boost up means the powers right down i am struggling to hold of the line.... The converter should flare more on launch as timing comes back in. Mike at MV auto says it should work ok. My trip to Cairns this weekend is cancelled due to the Cyclone, however i doubt the street meet will be on anyway..... was hoping to go see what mph i could get to gague current performance. Im going to plumb the ext Link 2.5bar sensor (as used on old GTST Link ecu as main load) into the turbo cover. This will get me total pressure loss across piping and intercooler.. Once done there i will plumb it into the exhaust manifold at the collector to gague Turbine Inlet Pressure. (abeilt using a longer bit of hose !) This should give me the vital info i need to work out if either end is restrictive ! ...... If not , then i move onto cam timing, SPARK power, and Converter. Gary

I finally got to pull a log down, however the .NET thing didnt do it .. I had to go into the com port driver settings and turn off the FIFO enable. However firmware update still cant see ecu. Dirt, i did this map in ecu firmware 4.2.1, using 4.3.4 pclink. Ecu is now flashed to 4.3.4 (using mates laptop). Do you think this might cause dramas ? Gary

No dirt, All new from scratch, last old map is outta GTST link, and not even the map numbers are remotely compatabile. err rather embarrisingly, i didn't have the ecu logging turned on.... hence why no data. i assumed it was on. Silly me ! I kept looking at the software throughout the day thinking..... where the hell is the ecu logging .... i know i'd seen it once.... And of course it didn't show up until plugged in this afternoon on way home! Doh. My laptop still won't pull a log , says it can't connect still, but im about to go out and try it now, as i just updated to .NET 3.5 .... hope that is the prob. Gary

Stan, technically gearing shouldn't make a difference.... probably just couldn't get into areas of map in 3rd, whereas 1st and second got there..... This is where locking the converter up in 3rd would allow you to get to all the areas a manual could, without the humungous torque trying to break straps and such! 2rismo, Oh ok, thought the launch looked abit soft for a transbrake ! Have you done a 60' with the TB ? Is the converter a lockup one ?

Hey i thought you were manual 2rismo !! Nice, welcome to the club ! Will go quicker as is just not hitting the limiter. What 60' was it doing ? Dyno sheet ? Hows the responce with the 1.00 A/R ?? Gary

Ahh ok ... gee must have missed that one, either that or just forgot about it. I'll give it a shot next time im on there in a few weeks. I wonder how that affects the transmission line pressure at all ? It makes sense as when researching the ecu (i built my own pcb to replace factory one) i did notice the 3rd shift is both outputs just off..... so hence why your trick works no doubt ! Thanks for the heads up, and yeah that will help with low down tuning. Once i get my auto comp running, i'll just lock up the converter for low down. Mike at MV reckons locking it once in 3rd is ok on strip..... so i guess on dyno wont hurt either...... be a good way to figure out how good/bad the converter efficiency is i reckon. Still im scared of smoking it ! thanks Darren Gary