blackprincegts

I know ill get flamed for this but i actually dont mind hondas, infact iv thought on many occasions of selling my r32 and getting a dc2 r.. putting the 2jz into a car like an s2000 just recks it i think.

Well the cars just clocked over 149 000 km's and it would appear to be the factory standard cat going by what it looked like when i got the got. i doubt the jap owner would hav changed it in the 90 000kms he they had the car for.. You think my cat could be killing off some of the power? nah its the stock ecu etc... iv been told of someone that can do a remap for really cheap for me that might help things along a bit.. i just spent a few hours re-drilling and cleaning up my pod adapter and I THINK the car seems to be pulling a bit harder up top, but id say the biggest thing that has changed is the engine seems to respond a bit better now iv mucked around with it a bit. Cubes, so you think its normal that my peak power is coming on before what nissan quote for my motor and already start dropping off hardcore by time it reaches that point, i would have thought that having a pod and exhaust would have pushed it up further if anything.. cheers

hey... I had my GTS r32 dynoed about 1 1/2 years ago, mods were a 2 1/4inch exhaust and a k&n pod (which is actually on an adapter thats about 1 -2mm smaller that the afm opening) with no cold air induction.. Heres my dyno chart, i had lost it for quite some time but found it the other day and started to have a really good look at it. rb20de dyno As you can probably tell by the speed it would have been done in 3rd gear which isnt right i know but... I noticed that my peak power was reached at about 5700-5800rpm, the power then seems to drop off significantly after this, thats what i find quite odd. This engine stock should be producing its peak power at 6100or something like that but by the time iv reached those revs the powers already dropping off quite quickly. Is there anything that anyone can suggest that could be going wrong there to make the engine stop producing power where it does?? Is it possible that the dyno reading was setup wrong therefore meaning that the speed shown on the graph does not match that of the revs that i have plotted on there?. Its hard to say for sure but when the car was new to me it used to come on power at about 5000rpm and pretty much maintain that pull right through to about 6500 and only slightly drop off by the time i would shift at 7000rpm. Now the car seems to all ova sudden go quite hard as soon as i huit about 5grand but die off again quite drammatically after this point. In a way im kind of hopeing theres something only simple wrong so meaning that when fixed the motor should continue to make more power right up untill atleast where it makes it stock from the factory.Im wondering if it is my pod setup though thats sent things a bit wierd.. i should really do it properly and mount it down in the front bar and use the right adapter for it..i know people that have gained about 2.5 to 3kw's at the wheels by doing this..( a neck breaking difference i know, LOL ) Any input appreciated... cheers!

yep,dunno about ALL cops having db testers but the bike cop did and the other coppers that tested me were undercover traffic patrol so ja... here in SA we also apparently had a trial of a system that takes a photo of vehicles that exceeded the legal db rating... that was like well over a year ago and i havnt heard anything about it since... they sed its set to a level that would mean you would have to well exceed the maximum db aloud on the street..

Well on my R32 GTS with a 2.25 catback with just a 4inch JUNbl cannon i would consider it VERY loud, the 1st time i got pulled over and had it tested it tested 91db. They made me get in the car while one officer watched that I held the revs at 3100rpm and the other officer stuck the reader at the end of the cannon. I measured 91 db and the cop said we wont worry about that because its only 1db over. 2nd time i got pulled over by a motor bike cop and he was so dam rude saying hes defecting me for my "extrememly defective exhaust note". same deal... tested 91 again and he let me go.... Anyway i dont getit why i havnt failed, i mean you can hear my car coming from streets away, i often think its a bit excessive for me. My work phone has a db reader onit, i did the same test and it read between 118 and 121 db's... wierd..

Il be keeping an eye on this thread as I cant wait to se what you run down the quarter with this car and also id be very interested to know what you end up getting at the wheels when you got it all tuned up and going how you want it to.. For an NA Silvia i must say that in my opinion 170rwhp is quite impressive!! Id be happy with that in my r32 GTS thats for sure..good stuff BTW, it always seems that at the start all interesting and good NA power up posts get hijacked by all the NOS crap... Not everyone wants that sort of power,its good for pure drag cars and for bragging rights and thats about it in my view. I personally prefer a car thats quick in any situation on the road and on the strip.. thats my 2cents anyway..

Awsome! Thankyou very much!!! Id better be allowing mself a couple of hours for this job i think. I had a feeling that i would have to unbolt the strut because it looked like it was stopping the up and down movement. Cheers

Please, anyone?? Surely someone would know a few pointers as to removing the two bolts and would now what would happen when i do it???

Ok fellas, I got the 2 bolts i need now. Its the 25mm bolt thats missing. The problem im having now is that I cant seem to get the arm and the bit where the bushes are installed to line up properly. Iv tried loosening off the bolt with the lock nut and that enables me to move the arm around and make it almost line up but theres about 0.5mm that what alighn and allow me to install the new bolt. If i was to remove the large 50mm bolt completely what would happen? I havnt removed it all the way yet because I dont want the whole arm to drop down and then me not be able to get the bolt back in. The 50mm bolt thats in there is pretty damaged btw, all the thread has been worn off where the pressure has been on it. I want to try and sort this out asap, even though its been like this for like 2years now that i know about it it makes me paranoid when im driving the car Thanks!

Alrighty then, ill givit a go when i getta chance, if i get stuck then iv always got mates who are on emergency callout standby.. im shockd and amazed that no1 else found the problem, i tookit to suposedly suspension expert places and all they sed was that it was my lower control arm. small independant place down the road were the guys to find it. im lucky the other bolt hasnt just snapped!! thanks again for all of your valuable help!!

Actually now that I kind of know what im looking for i went and had a really good look at it. It would seem that im going to have to pull the whole things apart because the front hole where the bolt should slide through and im guessing slide through the middle of the nolathane bush is sort of shifted, its only half inline with the bush by the looks of things. Its obviously shifted in the past and sort of lodged itself there... damn i rekn this will be annoying and difficult to fix.

Yeah the bolt i got missing is the one that doesn't have the additional nut on it that adjusts the camber. Ok im thinking this is going to be allot of mucking around. I hope i dont have to go and buy a kit for it because its been damaged. After what you guys have said im thinking maybe i should be getting one of my mates whos more mechanically gifted than myself to help me pull apart the other side and compare the two.. thanks to all for the input!!

yesterday i went to get my 1st wheel alignment in the 2years iv had the car, a bit slack i know but i have been unable to get one done up untill i changed my slightly bent lower control arm the other day. Anyway, they adjusted my front toe back to 0, apparently it was way out, which i now know ws causing my crazy tramling issues. Anyway, they brought to my attention that they could not adjust my camber (2.7 on right hand side and 1.22 on left because the right hand side upper control arm is missing a bolt, Iv got an adjustable camber setup that came in a kit with the nolathane bushes that i had installed when i got the car. ( i think it might be the whiteline one that sydney kid is selling in group buy) Im thinking that my mechanic never installed it properly in the 1st place which is obviously why iv been scrubbing tyres since.. So this is obviously the cause of the excessive camber on the right hand side, what i need to know is does anyone know what size bolt i need to wack back in there and is it just a simple matter of putting a new bolt in there or isit more involved than that?? Any help would be appreciated, im so sick of scrubbing out the drivers side tyre on the inside every few months or so, the tyre that was on there last had mostly 60% tread left but was through to the canvas on the inside... damm annoying Thanks guyz!

i find it very strange that both steve urwin and peter brock died doing the things they are considered to be legends at. the only thing to be said is that he died doing what he loved, as did steve. It kind of helps a little i think. very sad!!!

guy at my work has one on a paseo 1.5. He said it definately does give more grunt but the fuel consumtion DID NOT get better, it got allot worse according to him. Apparently theres simlilar systems for motor bikes that iv heard some people rave about.but thats on a very small motor remember my opinion on them is that they probably would add maybe 4 ish kw's of power at the wheels on a small motor NA car.Youd be able to only just feel the difference i rekn. I guess if your modding a small capacity NA with cheap bolt on uprgades for a little extra get up and go then it would be ok. On there website they do say that they " work best on smaller engines".

OMG i doubt its been done dude, but ova wierd conversion to do. anyway thought you hated V8's?? well atleast your name suggests that....lol

iv been looking closely at some r32 gtr's recently, iv only found 1 so far that i would be confident enough to put my money on the table for,frankly, most of them have had the crap thrashed out of them, why do most people want a gtr? its not because they want to putt around town like a grandma. After 15 or so years of being revved out to 8grand likely on a very regular basis like i sed most gtr's iv seen have put a definate doubt in my mind as to how long the motors would last, although iv also seen this with a number of gts't's. another problem is that the japs generally treat there cars like garbage, especially the cheaper ones,they just drive them and very rarely service them.iv seen this personally on so many gts't's its not funny. on the other hand i must say that being a gtr and being a bit more of an expensive and nice car it seems they do tend to look after them a little better. this is just what i have observed for myself...

ok well il ask my mate why he says that colder fuel=more power and post his answer up on here. however he is certainly not the 1st person iv heard sayit. as for the hose to the throttle body, this must be counterproductive because its heating the air coming into the engine.il do some more research..

oh and im 99.9% sure that they used the stock oil and water lines from the rb20det when installing the vg30 turbo, ill ask them and post up again if i find out otherwise.

1 of my mates has an r31 wagon with rb20det and vg30 turbo, running a microtech and extra injector in the crossover pipe. he is making 152rwkw's on 10psi but i must say that i feel that his car is slower than when he had the stock turbo on, VERY LAGGY. iv driven it heaps of times and i personally prefer my wifes complete stock 32 gts't auto (which actually pulls away from his car ina drag) because theres barely any lag. On the other hand, another of my mates has a 31 sedan with rb20det, with vg30 turbo also on 10psi running stock ecu with no remap and thats about it and his car consistantly made between 166 and 168rwkw's on the same dyno as my other mate was on. Iv been in his car and it absolutely hooks, pushes you back in your seat from around 3000rpm which is practically like the stock turbo. i think my mate with the wagons motor is just a piece of poo though, its always been a wierd motor, laggy for some reason, even when stock turbo was on it lagged like hell. so yeah if going by the 2nd result then i think youd be happy with the vg30 turbo highflowed running 14psi i rekn you could make maybe 180-190 at the wheels.. cheers.

a mate of mine and his brother who are mechanics were extensively looking over my engine the other night planning my turbo conversion ie where his gunna take the water and oil feed etc etc. anyway he pointed out to me someting that i found very interesting, on all rb20's whether det or de there are two small hoses that carry water up to the intake manifold.they run off into the fuel rail and up near the throttle body. They run through what looks like internal galleries in the induction manifold. Anyway they told me that they believe the purpose of this system is to heat the fuel before it is injected into the cylinders. When i asked him the purpose of doing that he said it would be an emission reduction thing and that obviously if we were to remove it then power gains and economy gains are "theoretically possible". I dont believe this can be removed on the dets however because it looks like thats where the water feed for the turbo is, de's just have a welch plug type thing at the firewall side of the manifold. Iv seen kits for ls1 holdens claiming power gains of like 15 to 20kw by diverting fuel lines etc to bring cooler fuel to the engine. In reality i doubt that it would make that much of a difference but can someone tell me if this theory is correct or not? If so it makes sense that one could expect a couple of kw's from it and a slight increase in fuel economy. system is easy to disable btw.. let me know if my mates a dickhead or if he might be right? lol cheers

wow, that was a quick reply.thanks man, ill get my wife to drive along side me now and give it a go. i think italready tried taken it on and off while idling though, but incase i didnt il go try now.

hey, yesterday i changed my gts blue faced guages over to the grey type m ones. I used a gts 4 dash so i couldn't just swap it straight over so i unscrewed dials and popped the pin off then screwed the grey ones back in place and popped the pins back in. All of my readings were way out and i managed to fix them by switching on the ignition and resetting them that way as i read in other posts. However, my speedo is out by a good 10-15 kms now and in cant seem to fix it!! any ideas on what i can do? also my tacho is sticking a little but overall seems to be working normally. The needle on the speedo falls back to zero when i come to a stop which i find vety strange. have i completely screwed it up? i read a post on sdu saying bassically if you take the needles off then you may as well go and get a new dash. wich id read that 1st b4 doing this. help would be greatly appreciated because im ripping my hair out at the moment!! Thanks!

Nobody knows then?

hey i just bought a r33 gts't brake booster and servo unit for 20bux off ebay. the one i got in my car now is the smaller gts r32 one and the small leak its had for 2 years now (maybe 100ml every 6months) has turned into something much worse! From the pictures it looks the same as my wifes gts't unit. is this correct? will the new one iv bought be for abs brakes? if so, my car does not have abs, can i just block the fluid feed off or someting. finnally will this be a reasonably straight forward changeover? cheers!!