blackprincegts

Ok thanks Shanef, Sent you a PM. Cheers Mad, i like the way you put that, real easy to understand. lol. From all the pics iv seen it looks like the 33bov will bolt strate on2 the 32 crossover pipe, does anyone one for sure if this is the case?? thanks again..

Hi there. Well im almost ready to do my long awaited turbo conversion for my RB20DE. Iv got all the parts i need except for BOV, wastegate actuator valve&the water/oil lines to feed the turbo which seem to be hard to find I have been looking for a standard rb20det BOV because i want to make this whole conversion as easy as possible and i want to keep the plumb back system. Iv found on Ebay a Greddy Style BOV that looks as if it should go on fairly easily and can be used as either atmospheric or plumb back. Its $59.99 which i know is quite cheap. I need peoples advice on whether or not its worth getting it, remember ill only be running 6psi through my turbo setup so it doesn't have to take allot of pressure so im thinking it should do the job. Blow Off Valve can be seen here Unless anyone has a standard BOV they want to sell??? While im at it, can anyone tell me what they think i should do about the oil and water lines? Would you suggest waiting untill i can find all the stock lines or getting some flexible piping that will be suitable for the job, im sure theres something out there that i could use that will be relatively cheap. It been VERY hard trying to identify the lines i need, the import wrecker i frequent has a pile of SR20DET lines but nothing that will help me, and he rekons its going to be a hard thing for me to find as well. Cheers!

I guess you could look for things like where the oil feed and water lines ect to the turbo are coming from. See if it just looks like someone has tapped into the sump or the block for oil or whether it all looks like stock piping etc. Do you know how much boost you are running? If your running anything more than 7psi i would bet that your engine would be pinging like hell if it was a rb20de engine. What does the car drive like? They probly just put a whole det engine init. Have they converted the car to 5stud etc?

Personally i think if your going to keep your NA for a while and you love your car it can be a good idea to go for an ecu tune. If your just going to do simple mods like exhaust&intake mods I would expect that you could certainly expect more power from getting your ecu modded.Put it this way, on my rb20de with 2 1/4 inch exhaust and k&n pod i made 85kw@wheels. Then the timing was advanced just a few degrees and it consistantly jumped up to 89rwkw's. When they mod your ecu they will generally change both your fuel and ignition maps together. If your going to run 98ron fuel all of the time then they would likely advance your timing right throughout the rev range as well as lean out your afr's a bit depending what they look like. I would say you could get maybe 6 or 7rwkw's out of it if it was done well.But thats just a rough estimate. wouldnt expect to much more than that. The place im getting my rb20 ecu tuned for my turbo setup doesn't do rb25 ecu's yet. Ohh and my old u12 pinny ka24e made 3.8fwkw's more after just timing advance so it gives you an idea of the extent of which tuning will effect the power of your NA.

The mounts on the 32 coilpacks are metal, iv just gone through changing a couple on both of my cars. I believe they generally crack at the base of the carbon or spring stem that joins to the spark plug. take of the boot and youll see what i mean. Atleast thats what eveyone i have asked has said. However iv had 3 coil packs fail now and both me and a mechanic i had inspect them could not find any cracks in the plastic. They just go I have a feeling they start arking against the metal mount,because all the packs ov seen have been all white under there, like electrical tracks. but you cant get underneath that mount from what i can see to identify a crack in it or not.

Iv got 2 r32's, both of them do it. My bro's CA18ET does it, and all my mates with rb20's do it too. Iv often felt it might be the AAC valve or o2 sensor when they get a bit dodgy and old. Mine stop doing it normally after 2 or 3 mins. I dont go above 3g annyway when cold.

tell me to shut up if im wrong but theres heaps of posts iv read in the past saying that stock boost is 6.8psi for the rb20det. all my mates 32 gts't's read 7psi on there guages when they were stock. may mate ran 8psi after his 3inch zorst was installed.

Burnsie. I know people who have run 15psi through there stock ceramic turbo's on rb20dets. One guy i know blew his up after about 20 thousand kays i think. Another of my mates was running 14 through his and his car ran fine for well over 50 thoudand, iv now got that same turbo for my GTS. Some people are lucky i guess

oh woops, just re-read you post and noticed you only running 7psi.in that case, pretty close between the 2 for sure.

actually remember that in australia the s15 sr20det was detuned from the factory. and in manuel form will do 6.34 and a standing quarter of 14.59. Australian spec s15 has 147kw and 265nm of torque@48000rpm. Rb20 got few more KW's but same torque. S15 manuel weighs in at 1282kgs. about the same asa 32 R32 Manuel will do 6.5 and 14.8 quarter. Expect only 0.1 to 0.2 seconds slower for the auto s15. If your mate got rid of nissans state of detune he would be making 187kw and be running 13.8 quarters. Youll woop him if you can drive properly if you got those mods you listed

hey thats what i bin thinking ov doen to my 32 GTS. aparently its a good cheap way to convert to 5stud. nobody's answered me though whether or not it would work.

yeah it also depends on what your definition of "goes alright" is. i mean, i hear HEAPS of peple say there XF Falcoon or VK commy "go alright". if your happy racing 6cyl VT's and AU's and normally beatn them by maybe a carlength or 2 then you should be happy with the performance ov NA. although you want an auto and i realy dont think that na auto would impress u. i raced another ina nuthr 32GTS exept he was auto and i was manuel. he gota BIG woopn. specially through the hilsl! Sounds like it's turbp and auto for you man. Turbo's dont cost that much more to run than NA. trust me, iv got both. btw. you said you hade u12 pinny? U a member of ANTRX? my last car wasa u12 TRX, my GTS could easily beat that ina drag however the U12 has more bottom end torque (ka24e truck motor)lol. Just to give you a comparison. good luck

mate that is one nice GTS. one of the best condition iv seen. Sounds wicked too dude. You said you had the motor recond, did they do anyrthing while they were atit like up the compression or do sumtn to the head or bore size or something cos even if it's making 108rwkw at damn good for an rb20de.So theoretically youd be running low 15's in a gts..coool thanks for that man,look forward to hearing what else you can tell us about this car. cheers

ok thanks fellas. recently while comparing my gts brakes o my wifes gts't i noticed that they are exacltly identical. Iv measured everything etc and i cant find any difference. The only difference i can see is the 5 studs coming out of the hub. My latest idea around spending all that money in ditching my hubs and everything to convert to the 5stud is to redrill my hubs and discs with holes for 5studs to go in and fill over the old stud holes. A friend of mine whos rather good with mechanical things that i told and demonstarted my idea to rekons it would work. Iv already got multistud wheels as well. based on my comparisons and measurments i cant see why it wouldn't work either. Can anyone shed some light on whether or not this idea is falible or not? Thanks again!

ok thanx for the input guys. Eug, if i was to do everything you listed there your right, it would cost me a packet.. hmm, helps me make my mind up a bit easier now i guess. all that work just to keep up with a stock gts't..lol just out of interest anyone else out there has there rb20de's dynoed? modified or stock. cheers

Iv just installed a full set of super white bulb 4200k snd 5000k bulbs in my 32. Got the h3c for my foglights ( 89 style front lights) and the h4 for the normal headlights. my 1st impression ov them once installed was these are awsomely bright. When standing infront of the car looking at them they are heaps brighter than the standard 1ns i had in there. but iv found that for some wierd reason these globes dont point there beam to the ground infront of me instad theyseem to light up everything above it.i wouldn't have knocked the headlight adjustment out i dont think. is there anything anyone can think of to help me, might have to go back to my shocking yellow bulbs i had in there that gave me very poor visibility in the 1st place, thankx people!

Hi there. Iv done allot of searching and can really find the info i need. Iv got an 89 rb20de GTS that currently has 89kw@wheels with just a 2.25 inch catback exhaust system and a couple ov degres advanced timing running on premium unleaded. Iv got a stock rb20det turbo and intercooler plus piping sitting here and my plan up untill now has been to tubo my NA and winding the boost back to 5psi with reduced timing to ward ov the pinging. My question is do you's think it's possible to get around the same performance i.e 115-120rwkw's out of my NA without going to the bolt on turbo i was gunna do. i would be happy if i could get my NA skyline to run around mid 14's. so around the same sort of performance asa stock gts't maybe a little quicker.. If i was to go the NA option would you's think i could make this sort of power doing the following :- *Heat Treated or wrapped Extractors. *good quality cold air inducion *rb20det injectors *remapped ecu and maybe a bit ova port and polish of the head, no cam though. dont want it to be anymore top endy than it already is.i would love some more midrange. these mods could be done prograssivly reducing the pain on my pocket. would also use allot less fuel than it would if i just bolted the turbo on. Reliability for me certainly plays a huge part in this decision for me as it will be my daily driver. All thoughts appreciated, except for the ones telling me to just sell my car and get a gts't. my wife drives a gts't auto btw. Thanks

I payed bout 30bux for mine from memory. I know other people say they dont notice much of a difference but i certainly did. i find it cut down my understeer when pushed really hard, car also feels a hell ova lot firmer in the front end. im gunna get one for the rear eventually. definately a worthwhile mod in my opinion.

my wifes stock gts't auto breaks traction with no worries... so yeah , your trans definately soaking up power dude...

exceptionally good price!

3inch will definately make the car much more sluggish.. on my GTS i have a 2 1/4 cat back with JUN BL cannon, no mufflers in the line... straight through..I must say that i noticed a small decrease in low end torque believe it or not.and a very mild increase above 5000rpm. I get nothing but good comments about my exhaust note being sick nannas,best RB iv heard etc,etc..not that im bragging at all.. you will get slightly better fuel economy than a gts't driven mostly off boost.expect around 420-450km's o a tank around the city.. on the open road expect around the 600-650 mark if your not driving against the wind.. iv run my rb20de on normal pump fuel heaps of times... ran ok, untill my timing was advanced a few degrees then i found it pinged on very hot days...it does run best on premium.. iv found 95ron to be fine.. as far as the brakes you have, yeah they are definately an upgrade form stock GTS brakes.. GTS are single pot calipers... same size front discs though to the gts't.280mm. unless you have m spec brakes.. My understanding of how the models run isthat you can get a gts type s ( standard gts steering wheel,generally no hicas,blue background on instrument cluster,roundish front bar and no sideskirts etc) and a gts m-spec with pretty much all the same parts as the gts't just no turbo. my wifes 4door gts't type s is practically identical to my 2door gts type s GTS..

Hey Rod I have a 89 R32 GTS. You asked what the performance is like as compared to a falcon or commodore.Well obviously my car is only the RB20DE but i can confidantly say that my car beats, even though only by maybe 0.2 of second my mates VT and my other mates AU.. I flog the AU up untill about 120ish then he starts to pull up to me. My GTS pulls an 8.2 0-100 time on my gtech and my mates AU pulls a 9.1.. so.... I can generally keep with gts's off the line up untill about 80 then they roar past me!!.. Iv never had the priviledge of racing with a r33 gts so i cant tell you if they are much quicker than my gts but my guess is that they would be maybe a car length ahead. Oh,, and,the aussie tanks have NO chance through the twisties...the GTS will out handle any commodore or falcon stock for stock... I dont know where you live mate but in Adelaide there are a few places you can pick up s1 and 2 r33gts't' s for 15grand.. Iv seen pleny of GTS's in the trader for 13 or 14... As for insurance... my car the GTS costs me 100 a month, my wifes GTS't costs me 119 a month... the value on the gts't is also much higher..Not much differnce really..If you want the name of the insurance company PM me. good luck

yeah iv heard of the cadet 32, and yeah your right i think it does have the gts hub. however this one i saw definately had the rb0det as standard cos the plates matched the number. BH Dave i didnt know you could option the turbo in on gts models. but logically i think that may be the answer. anyone else?

Hi there people. Iv been searching around for a while now trying to find the exact model gts't that came out with the "GTS" or "ca18det" four stud hub and brake setup. Iv had a few people tell me now that all r32's fitted with the silvertop rb20det came with the 5stud hubs from the factory but i believe otherwise. I have seen 2 gts't skylines when i was up in queensland and 1 down here in adelaide that were apparently factory fitted turbo models but had the same brakes and hubs as my 32 GTS. I actually seen the original factory compliance plate on one of these cars and it said rb20det however the owner of the car could not tell me much about it except that he baught the car direct from japan and the car had no worries with getting through regency inspection. The reason i need to find proof of the existance of 4stud gts'ts is because regency have told me that if i can proove in writing that they exist standard from the factory then all i need to do is have my car inspected after i do my turbo conversion for general roadworthiness instead of going through all the testing bull crap. Any info or hints as to wher i can find what im after would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah iv had almost the same problem. not as extreme as what your getting though. I took my car to a few different people and no one could give me very good answers. My car seems to of fixed itself though... wierd.. hasn't happend for a few months now..