blackprincegts

not sure if this is your solution but my 32 also has this exact problem.one of my lower control arms in slightly damaged,not really bent as such,more so dinged. Took it to a couple of suspension places and they all told me that the car was behaving as you described due to my damged l.c.a..Iv got a replacement one sitting in the shed but havn't fited it yet. just another idea for u

Hoping someone can give me an answer to my very annoying problem. On 3 occasions now in around 40degree heat days after driving the car for around 30mins my r32 gts has had what seems like fuel starvation or someting.Bassically while driving along normally under only light load the engine starts to splutter slightly, when the accelator is applied a little heavier the revs stay constant and the car will not accelarate. Then suddenly the car cuts out ( did it at 90km/h down a hill) After about 10 tried to restart the car and it spluttering away it will start up fine and be back to normal. It actually feels exactly the same as when my fuel pump plug came out and the car obviously lost fuel. Iv asked several mechanics now say they really dont know why it's happening. Since then the car has occasionally become hard to start 1st thing in the morning and then fine for the rest of the day. Im about to bolt up my turbo and the last thing i need is mixutures leaning out on me. Another thing is that on both occasions now i have smelt fuel around a minute prior to it occuring... If anyone has ANY suggestions please let me know... if be very greatfull!!! Cheers~!

Thanks Guys. Much appriciated. I wanted to try and find a way to run only 5psi anyway. Thanks.

Iv almost got together the parts for my RB20DE - DET upgrade (no smart ass comments please <_< ) and one thing i havn't got is the boost regulator valve that controls the wastegate to open at standard boost. I can get one cheap of an RB25det but alls i want to know is will it open the wastegate at the same point the RB20det one would. I compared it with one of a RB20DET from a ceffy and it looked identical. anyone know if the 25 one will do the job properly for me? thanx!

In regards to does an officer have to give a member of the public their name. Members of SAPOL are issued with this operations statement "Your certificate of identity is issued to certify that you are a member of SA Police. You are to : Carry it when on Duty, Produce it when requested,to certify that you are a member of SA Police, Use it only when you act in your capacity as a Police Officer. Using this alone can IN SOME CASES bring into disrupute the officer handling the particular case. There have been past instances where normal members of the public have posed as Police Officers and even used undercover cars very similar to that used by SAPOL. If they cant prove they are a Police Officer then you can bassically hop back into your vehicle and drive away. ( Believe me!! It's actually happend to me, in my case the man who pulled m,e over was prosecuted by police for impersonating a police officer)

sorry i skimmed through those last few posts and didn't read that you had found the solution.. good stuff..

Bro i rekn you have yourself a blocked radiator.I only just replaced mine in my 32 due to bassiclally the same problem that you having.The only thing you havn't described however that mine was doing was that when the pressure built up the coolant would be forced in2 the overboil tank because it wasn't able to flow through the core of the radiator, Therefore the coolant looked as if it were boiling and the car would overheat. 1 morning even my engine switched itself off in2 protection mode because it got so hot without my realising. New radiators arnt cheap. bout 600 bucks if you get a mechanic to do it.I got a second hand perfect condition one for $140 and i think thats the way to go if that turns out to be your problem. Most guys i know with 32's including myself have had major cooling issues after importing the car.Thats because put quite simply the japanese dont service that sort of thing like they should.Mine had tap water in it!!!! Hope you find a solution soon...

Hey yo. Im eventually looking at wacking the turbo onto my RB20DE. Yes you are correct, the only difference between the two motors are the pistons that create higher comp. I personally dont think its worth doing anything like that to turbo an NA motor. If your going to do it you have to come to terms with the fact that you will have to run low boost(nothing over say 7psi). I have spoken to many mechanics on this issue and they all tell me that simply retarding the timing a few degrees will lower the compression enough in order to run standard boost. if you want anything more than that then you ar far better off to swap the whole motor over!

Pretty much all of the hoses in my 32 r stuffd!The main hoses coming in and out of the radiator are no problems however the heater hoses that run right around the engine are somewhat difficult to change and nissan want a bloody fortune for the factory replacements. Does anyone know of anything else from any other cars which might be cheaper that will match the standard ones?,for example i know that often allot of RB30 stuff can be adapted to fit,not in this case tho i dont think cos the heater box is onthe other side. All suggestions would be appreciated!The car will be driven from Adelaide to the Goldcoast shortly and i want to ge them changed before i go.Already had it over heat of me several times. The car acvtually switched of when it happend so its amazing the old girl is still going hard. Cheers people!

Nah at 1st i plan on running the GTS computer and injectors. I figure this should be fine running on 6psi. It will probly run richer using my computer anyway which is really what i need to try and keep combustion temps down. Thanks for the input people.. I have recently found some info on the turbo in question anyway. Would appear that it is the same as the redtop eccs rb20. Non-ballbearing..

Nah thats the VG30e and et in the Z31.Yeah these turbos are definatly the VG20ET ones. I believe that the VG20DET turbos are somewhat desirable due to being ball bearing. Thanks for the input WAZR32GTST

Hey! I have an r32 GTS with RB20DE. I am converting it to turbo however i am not using the DET motor.Yes yes, plenty will call me stupid for attempting this but thats another matter. I have recently come across a few VG20 turbos for sale at a jap wrecker with only minimal shaft movement. I noticed that externally the VG20 turbo appears identical to the one used on the RB20DET silvertop.I tried bolting it up2 the RB manifold and it went on no probs. All oil and water lines are an EXACT match.The only differece I can see is that on the VG turbo it has 16v 10 written and on the RB turbo has 16v 6 written onit. Does anyone know what these numbers mean? Bassically im after all the info on the VG turbo i can get. I have searched everywhere on the net and there isn't mucht available. I presume its taken from a maxima or cedric or something. I am not after anything mind boggling in performance.I simply want to feel some boost and take advantage of the turbo torque. So you's rekn that this turbo should be able to satisfy my requirments? I can get the turbo for like 130bux including dump pipe.much better that the $400 they want for the stock RB unit. As many opinions and info I can get would be muchly appreciated.!! Cheers

Hey people. I am hoping very much that someone here can help me with a bloody annoying problem im having. I have an 89 R32 GTS.Bassically when im in 1st or 2nd gear and turning left(even the slightest turn of the wheel) under full accelaration causes the gear shifter to wobble from side to side. This only happens on left hand turns. When turning right the stick remains firm as! The problem only started about a week ago. The things only got 90rwkw and just clocked over 120 000kms.I also had a heavy duty x-clutch installed about 2months ago, dont know if that has any bearing on the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Im worried about the poor girl.Hopefully nothing to seriouse! Cheers!