jezzerrr

I'm not one to usually throw in useless posts, but that was a good call

so, by the Pyramid of Speed, you could deduce, generally, that all racers are wankers! lol. *dreams of the day when he can afford to be at the top of the pyramid*

how'd you go mate? what oils did you end using

did some trawling an found this - for future reference. ordering mine today! ...I actually purchased a S14 tow bar from Nissan for $200 thinking it would fit. Most of the Nissan RWD / AWD platforms are essentially the same in the chassis rail, spare wheel well, beaver panel area. The S14 tow bar mounts slide inside the chassis rail 22 cm with a piece on angle plating on the outside of the LH rail and two bolts going through and uses the tow point bolts on the other side. I believe the S14 kit will fit S13, S14, S13, R32 2 and 4 door, R33 2 door and maybe R34 and Stagea. It would not fit on my R33 4 door because they have a bodge in the beaver panel that stops the bar from being pushed all the way into the chassis rails. The S14 bar is ratted at 900kg.

sounds like that's the case mate

Ic... well yeah as i said i dont have much experience, that's just what i deduced from pics i'd seen of coils on other models, and that people said they could crack if you overtightened them :confused: sorry if I gave anyone a bum steer. I just ran the exact same search I did this morning, and now it came back with results.... go figure. but yeah I always find it's easier for the people helping you if you post a linkie

yeah i dont think you'd wanna tow a caravan or anything but for towin shit down the dump or bikes/jetskis etc i cant see it being a hassel. one concern that was raised is that you dont really want to be towing if you've got a car that's got a fair few mods and comes on boost strong, could do some damage if ur toing somethin a bit weighty!

that's pretty much what i've decided pete so long as you dont "race" it or labour it, should be fine. and as was said before, the gearbox and diff(s) need warming up too

yeah i actually read it as a bump in the bodywork preventing the tow bar to slot straight in... he said the 2 door might not have the bump... but then i do have a habit of skimming yeah not sure about the insurance... i guess it would only really come into play if it somehow contributed to the accident... I had 19's on my old car that i hadn't notified them about when i hit a roo... they weren't even mentioned. guess I could just get the tow bar and try my luck... at worst I may be able to return it or sell it... which mob did yours skippy? I didn't even know there were "tow bar places"

you're kidding right? a gtst for 45k and a wrx cost 40... I'm talking newout of the factory in japan... I guess it's feasable tho... which makes commodores look even more like a POS for the money. I would have thought that they would at least have been more EVO priced... considering if they were only 45k it would make a gtst approx 1/3rd the price of a new gtr!

post a link to the thread mate. search wont find it for me

try turning it off, and holding each button down for a few seconds as a start. pioneers at least have a settings menu that you access by turning off and holding a specific button for a few secs. That's if you dont really want to buy a new HU anyway

Nah mate, inside the air diverter flap actuator, the one you can see if you look in under the dash toward the heater from the drivers side. looks like this - pull it right apart and you'll find the PBR on the underside of the circuit board. The PBR is a position sensor- Potentio ballast resistor - works like a volume knob in a fashion. it senses the position of the plastic arm you see in the pic, based on the resistance it sees, which varies between low and high depending on which end of the circuit the pickup is on. Sorry if I'm being patronisingly descriptive, just tryin to paint a picture for ya I didn't have a clue what it looked like until i saw it! the box is mounted on a bracket and you'll see that it is connected to a metal bar running in under the heater system. The other end is attached to the air diverter flap. When you pull it apart you'll need to pull that arm off - I broke the clip that holds it in, but I dont think it really matters (especially not now lol), undo two screws in the bottom and pry it apart carefully. pull the gears out, and the board inside has two screws from memory, undo them, and carefully pry it out. look at the underside and you'll see the PBR. Hope that helps!!!

too much thinking then but yeah

I have to agree with him about starting on boost in an auto. you cant load a manual like you can an auto. another reason they use them in drags

:werd: alot of people mix up sequential manuals with autos. I call them automatic manuals ie the shift is automatic, but the box isn't; no torque converter, no planetary gear system, etc. If it has a torque converter it's an auto, if it dont, a manual. simple. So 4 door sleeper, it would appear that YOU are the "15 yr old NOOB talking out of your ***" I cited the drag strip argument to illustrate nothing more than that every auto in the world isn't utterly shite beside a manual. saying that, no full auto could ever emulate the insight of correct gear selection before reaching a corner etc, nor can it offer the weight set up into corners etc. I'll say it again, you dont DRIVE an auto, save fiddling with the throttle to try and get the f*&ker into the gear you want. I'd even go out on a limb and say that drag racing is the only racing that an auto is suited for. Awesome for starts, cause all you have to think about is the right revs, then stomp it as soon as you're off the brakes. no clutch bite to worry about.

sounds like somethiing is dead. should be straight forward. did you check the settings for the RCA outs on your h/u?

hell yeah... there really is no sound like a nice v8. but the sound of a nice RB engine is every bit a spine tingling sexy. just like v-twin bikes I've got a TLR and it is the sweetest sound out. especially at 250kph without the cans on!!! lol I have video proof of that fords sound better than holdens, I'm told it's cause of their crank angle. Where's that sound clip orready!

guess what, it's already number 20 on the charts, and number 2 on the dance charts! (dance version lol) un***nblvble. I'd just like to say that i have been using terms like "shnapper" for a long time now. i feel cheated! http://www.aria.com.au/pages/aria-charts-d....asp?chart=1S50

I know the coils on the s2 "piggyback" a metal mounting system, as such to prevent shorting out from cracking the coils from over tightening. pretty sure with the series one's each coil is one assembly made entirely of plastic, hence the possibility of cracking. I think cracking is more or less impossible on the s2's, given their design. and yeah, no ignitor box, just a connector (at the rear of the valley cover). That's from my small amount of experience. hope that helps with your diagnosis.

mine was squeaking but it stopped

Bloody oath they are. 1)They're not aussie built 2) Alot of people forget that gtst's were an 80ish grand (confirmations?) car when they came out! That's why I looked at that wanker in his falcon and didn't even bother. I dont need to prove shit.

when they get complied here I can see soooooo many people saying to the owners "cool 350z!" that would piss me off.

real stupid thing but if it a DVC sub make sure both your coils are wired the right way(both neg-neg pos-pos). I know it's a really dumb thing to say but i've seen it happen in the past. save that does your head unit have switchable rca jacks? some are switchable for amp out/aux in.

I dare say the myth is based on the rough calculation of manual drivetrain losing 30%. I would guess it wouldn't be a long shot for an auto with a dodgy torque converter to bump the loss up to 40%. It's definaltely not 40% OVER a manual. that's just stoopid. why do all good drag cars run autos? saying that, i'm a manual lover, you just dont "drive" an auto the way you do a manual. takes some of the skill out of it imo.