7yphon

Do you have a pull apart Diag of the front Disks and hub assembily, ill try and take some pics when I can

Is it much harder for the front as I need to do the two front bearings, I get all the way to the hub but there seems to be some sort of plate blocking us from getting to the nut any ideas on how to remove this?

Like I said im building the car for track/drift ill try and track down a RB25 head but not sure about when i will be buying it tho, Ill prob be sitting on this for a while and working and buying parts for it. I want to build it to be strong dont want outright power never did. my goal for now is 300hp and yes I know the 20 can do this but it doesnt have the same tuoque as the 25 I couldnt beleave how much dif .5 of a leter makes.

I know my car has no Speed cut but dam, That would be scary unless you have a RB24 then it might be up near the 9's ps dont do burnouts or drift

It would be the wheel bearing Thats how mine is, It comes and goes turn a corner it could go away, But when me and mates looked at the wheels they dont spin freely. Does anybody know how to access them and change them, I dont really want to pay some fool $400 to do it and find I could have done it in 4 hours. I need a Diag or something of the wheel assembley

ok its still free but with the parts im buying I am hoping to make a better/stronger engine then stock, I am building this engine towards race/drift so I want it to last but I also want some touque because thats what wins races. Also I did think about the R32 25de head but I wasnt sure if it would surport the build up but I guess I can keep the loom then. Cool been heaps of help guys ill look around a bit for some more ideas, Also do I need a R33 ECU or could I chip the 32 one to support the mods?

ok this is what im looking at doing, Please advise. ok if I can track down a RB25 head it will be a fully rebuilt RB25 I want to use RB26 parts but I heard the crank will not fit. is this the case? I was thinking like the 24 bore it out to 83. and using the 4agze pistons. I was also thinking about using RB26 conrods I will have to use the RB20 intake and anything else that needs to be bolted on. anyway Feed back please, And try and keep the sarcazem away as I need peoples help not crap.

All I want is the head nothing else and as long as it can be fixed I should be interested. Nothing Spech just wanted the basic head

bump

Well I have tried to search for the last few hours now and still no more information alltho I did read something about this being another way for a RB24? is this correct. and please please help I know you might have said stuff to other ppl before but if you have its been lost or I dont know what to search for.

I have tried the Search button, What do I need to type and I wont ask these stuped questions?

I dont care about the time and its free why would you argue about something thats free? Also im going to be doing the rebuild myself, Also if the ports are smaller why would this matter? I wanted info on the conversion, Why do ppl always have to shoot peoples ideas down

I have a RB20DET which it states on my sig, anyway down to the point. I have just been given access to a RB25det bottem end now there is nothing wrong with it "YET" because my mate is going to be doing a RB30DET conversion so he now no longer needs it, I was thinking about slapping this onto the bottom of the 20 is there any issues I should know about, Is it a Direct Bolt on? and what should I change while its not on a engine?

I have done the Spray on my Side mount Cost me under $10 money well spent til you need a FMIC

You are talking about the Muff thats what the big ass thing is Packed full of glass and other sound ded stuff, They Seem to look like they flow allright I have something sim on my car and it is under 95db also flows well, And sound wicked. Yes I agree with gazza the HKS super drager is a ausome system but not when you have a splitting head ake "No offence". when I get home ill take a pic of mine for you

If it does someone could have disabled it, Check the fuses and the engine bay and there should be a fuse that says something alone the line of tracktion or ABS. Also dont rely on ABS for breaking because not many ppl know this but ABS is to help with turning, so if you find someone pulles out in front of you instead of just slamming on the brakes turn away from them also. Just my 2c

I would like to know where to go as me and a mate are doing a project and would like to also test this out, Has anybody had it done?

Very interesting, ALso ifs its a S1 you will have blue tach and speedo if its a S2 your Cluster will be greay with grey tach and spedo

Also make sure you clean the AFM otherwise it will just go back the its old ways

If you follow the black piping it should run to the passenger side of the car, there is a small intercooler just under the panel if you bend down you will see a hole get a torch and shine it in there. A FMIC does make heaps of a difrence

Sounds like a dead battrey "well not compleatly" Skylines take a lot of charge to turn over Try and get a jump start and see if she tunes over

Have you tried using another AFM I had this problem after installing the new Turbo was shitting me to tears trying to save it at lights all the time, I have a mate who owns a skyline and he just put a RB25 in his 4 door so weee spare AFM for the 20 anyway we put it on and presto fixed I dont get much stalling now but I think the rest just means a good tune

ok I can wait

I have a mate putting it on his car and I was thinking about using it on the R32, The controler has 128 load points as I was told Apexi only has 5 load points. the link for the jarcar is here http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...eMax=&SUBCATID= Has anybody put this on there car or does anybody see any problems, The site says that it has been testing on a 200sx

That sucks man ill keep my out for ya, Hope you get it back