scathing

Hey all. I'm selling a set of bronze Volk Racing TE37s. The dimensions are: F: 17x7.5 R: 17x8.5 Unfortunately the offsets are unknown (I believe they are +30 but the sticker is gone), but the rims are a perfect fit for an S15 so they should also sit well on a GTS-t. They are also fairly gutter rashed, with only 1 rim free of damage. Here is what the set looks like: and more pics (including the worst of the gutter rash) can be found here: http://www.au-z.org/gallery/forsale_te37 And this is what they look like fitted to an S15: EDIT: Rims are sold. Mods, feel free to delete / lock the thread.

They'd still be around 100hp down on the Holden / Ford donks. The Toyota engine would be potentially lighter, though.

He fixed the alarm on mine. Top bloke, and with a good attention to detail.

Hey, there are plenty of other sanity-challenged people that love referring to the fact that old Nissans didn't have BOV's as a reason why you don't really need one.

A guy at work has the Stage 2 PWR supercharger on his LS1 HSV. Estimated at around 450kW at the flywheel. f**k it pulls....

Get some self esteem. LS1 powered Commodores are not slow in a straight line, and the engine responds quite well to cheap mods. And as for how much power you need, once you start modding its an arms race. For everything you do, someone has done something more. I reckon with 1000hp you should be OK - there won't be that many Commodores that will be able to beat you.

It'd make a great car for CRAFT.

I saw them when I was down in Melbourne for F1. They're kinda funny. There was one on a massive billboard across the road from the Palmerston pub (which is a block away from Albert Park), as well as in tram stops everywhere.

"Experience is the word people give to their mistakes". The best funded F1 team in the paddock, and they still can't string a couple of wins together even after stealing a front running team's engineering.

Race Brakes NSW is still around!?!?! I thought they went under last year....

Apparently she may have lost her Continental GT in a bet.

Ever seen an MGB that's daily driven? I doubt it, because that would imply that your car could stay together for more than a day of use. Most classic British marques (i.e. before they got bought by the Americans / Germans) have a ratshit build quality. Look at the TVRs - my British colleagues compare them to Hansel and Gretel since the roadside assistance guys can always figure out where it is by following the trail of parts until you see something obscured in boiled coolant on the side of the road.

Everyone's pretty much covered it. The Range Rover practically invented the current SUV market. It was the first 4WD that had good off-road ability, and was usable around town. Being British helped as well. Why did people buy Jags back in the day, when BMWs and Mercs were better built and cheaper?

At least they'll have had a bit of experience driving in any kind of car before trying to control a 400hp car. Did you start running before you learned to walk?

So, how do you manage to fit all that in?

No, just because he's driving an Impreza and asking on a Skyline forum. I don't ask my plumber for tips on how to wire in a boost controller; why would I ask Skyline drivers how to fit something to an Impreza?

If I had the means, I'd buy my kid a car. Mind you, it'd be an absolute shitbox. Something like an old Corolla, Excel or the like. I'd encourage them to do motorkhanas in it at first, to get their skill level up. If they had an interest and their skill improved, I'd then consider assisting them in buying something a bit nicer. Probably an S13 NA, which has better balance and is RWD. After that, they'll be old enough to sort themselves out. If they had no interest in doing motorsport, or couldn't handle it, then I'd assist them in buying a modern econobox after the shitter. Something with good safety features and creature comforts, but definitely no sporting pretensions. And if they tried to modify it....then I'd remove the assistance. If I don't think they can handle a sports car, then they're not going to try turning it sporty. N.B. I said "assist". I wouldn't buy it for them outright, but I'd lend them money or if I was in the right tax bracket and working for a big company I'd put it on my novated lease. I'd knock off some of the repayments for their birthday or rewards for doing other things, if they wanted. But they'd have to earn it.

Get them replaced in pairs. That way at least the damping rates on either side of the car are even. It'll really throw off your handling if one damper has a different rate to another. I wouldn't drive it if you have broken one of your dampers. Yes it is dangerous.

On a silver car, I'd consider the Axis Hiro Anthracite. Anthracite (close enough to gunmetal) spokes, and a polished lip. Would look f**king hot. For proof, see the attached (they're Volk Racing LE37Ts, but you get the idea from the colour). Tempe Tyres' web site has the Hiro Anthracite on a pewter 350Z so it depends on what shade of silver you've got. I don't think gunmetal works on pewter.

Yeah, but my body's service manual doesn't say to only run it on fresh air and water. If your engine is expecting a certain RON value and you're putting a lower RON in it, a better analogy would be a person who was born up and grew up at sea level trying to live at great altitude (higher than anywhere in Australia, anyway). Your body has developed expecting the air to have a certain oxygen content, and now you're breathing in has a lot less of it. Sure your metabolism might be able to adjust and cope, but see how healthy you are and what happens to you if you try to exert yourself.

As long as its a light enough silver I reckon you can get away with it. I look at the R34 Z-Tune, and in the shade the entire car just looks too dark. I'm not a big fan of the look, to be honest. What I did see that I liked was a light silver car with dark gunmetal rims. I saw an R32 GT-R with R34 GT-R wheels on it, and it looked hot.

I used to own one. But then I sold it since Nissan sold me one of their half-dozen GT-R Proto's they built for testing / car shows. True story.

Most Euro cars made since the mid 90's have recommended PULP, which he's admitted. I think the 4 cylinder BMWs have survived on ULP, since the target market are all social climbers, but the 6's, 8's and 12's should have PULP as a minimum requirement. If your dad chooses not to run it on the minimum fuel, its his money when he needs an engine rebuild because the engine's been pinging or gunked up. BMWs are temperamental bitches, and the servicing costs aren't cheap. And if the car was in warranty, it wouldn't be after they pulled the engine down and saw the state of the internals (that's if he's even smart enough to fill the car up with PULP before taking it in). As an aside, what's the point of owning the "Ultimate Driving Machine" *chortle* if you're going to urinate into the fuel filler? The other thing is that his car is Australian delivered, and NA, and so its setup should be for local conditions and fuel. Even if you have a stock GTT, the turbo and higher average ambient temperatures in Australia will make it more temperamental. Japan doesn't only sell 103RON fuel, so it should cope with slightly lower octane ratings, but its still not good for the car. In the end, instead of raving about why you're pouring quality fuel into your cheap Japanese sports coupe, why not have him ask himself why he's pouring shit fuel into his expensive European luxury sports sedan?

Just out of curiosity, since I've never owned a car that had enough power to wheelspin indefinitely, if you're wheelspinning do you hold that gear until the rear eventually hooks up so your ground speed matches your engine speed (given the gear you're in), or do you change gear? I mean, if you're wheelspinning then technically you're banging off the rev limiter but your actual velocity isn't equal to if you were redlining your engine with traction. This means if you shift, then you might fall out of the meat of your torque / boost curve. In all of my (underpowered) machines, if I've ever broken traction I've just backed it off a little or held it on the limiter until the car's speed has eventually increased to a point where the tyres get traction back.

http://www.tein.com/redamp.html 5 seconds at the Tein web site would answer your question. Sometimes I wonder how people today even manage to wipe their own arses.....