scathing

Where its situated, you can't see it during the day because its not bright enough to show up. At night you can make it out, out of the corner of your eye. Its possible I subconsciously use it, but I rarely ever see it so I'm not entirely sure I do. I am tempted to install programmable shift lights in the car. The only thing I want the shift light to tell me is when to downshift when braking so I don't over-rev the engine. There have been a couple of times where I've downshifted too early on the track, and put the needle into the redline.

The SR20's are all perfectly square. Your ignorance at such a basic property of the SR explains why you think the CA is a better built motor. I'd concur that its your 2c indeed - after rounding off to the nearest coin of legal tender, your opinion is worth nothing. The SR makes more power with better response that a simple 200mL of extra capacity can't explain away. Its a much better design, even if you take the weight advantage of a cast iron vs alloy block out of the equation when it comes to the total performance of the vehicle. And 2.0L isn't that big for a 4 banger. A lot of companies opt for approx. 500mL cylinders in their performance engines.

Why not unlearn how to spell, and then start threads like, "liek omg da f*kn pigz wer all ova m3 lsat weeknd. Y cant dey leve me alne? Just bcuz I got 20" chromiez, chopped sprnigz and a 4" cannon zorst wif a pnuched cat wh1le I wuz draggn my m4t3. f*kn copz shuld d13" and then just reply to the responses backing you up about how you got so hard done by.

+1 You could also add, "you don't have ears?" to that as well. My car's got a shift light built in. I don't think I've ever actually used it.

I hope its got a very high return while presenting a low risk, and being liquid enough to take funds out of it when you want, because you do realise you have to pay your insurance premium every year right? You'll need to be earning more than 200% PA interest on a $1000 investment to even get to a point where it will have enough money to be able to sustainably pay for your $2000 a year insurance bill if you wanted to start getting comprehensive next year. Most standard Savings accounts have an interest rate at around 5% PA at the moment. So on $1000, if you're going to wait for interest to raise the rest of the money, it will take you 13 years on pure interest alone to save enough for 1 year's insurance......at which point you'll have $70 change to start saving again so you can afford your second insurance payment (which on interest alone will take you another 64 years). I would say "good luck", but not even luck is going to get you those kinds of returns.

Oh, a stock Skyline, or one without a programmable ECU. I hadn't considered that. If the car's stock, then it should be adequate. 101RON would be top-of-the-line fuel; OEMs always design their cars for a wide range of conditions. If its got a Mines' ECU or something that's tuned more aggressively but can't be retuned locally, I'd probably look at swapping the ECU and retuning instead. I don't like octane booster since there's no guarantee it mixes properly, so I'll avoid it where I can. I don't think it was designed as a long term solution.

Why not buy a set of rotors designed for your car and its stud pattern?

Yeah, because a 1990's Nova / Corolla is going to be in the same bracket as a late 90's / 2000+ Astra SRi Turbo, so obviously people will cross-shop them. Why don't you suggest he go look at an Audi S3 or Golf R32 while you're at it?

Buy the highest RON rated fuel you can, rather than buying the lower-spec stuff and octane boost it. Octane booster doesn't mix in to the petrol properly, and its only ever designed as a stopgap measure. If you've tuned your street car to use fuel with a higher RON than what you can easy get at your local petrol stations, then I'd suggest re-evaluating your requirements or purpose of your vehicle.

That's like saying that Dobermans have the best tasting dog shit. I don't give a f**k where my tyres are made, or even who makes them. All I care about is how they perform, and Nankangs, Wanli's etc don't.

Yeah, but T1R's aren't cheap.....which is what he's asking for. We all know they're awesome tyres.

Is the car tuned for its mods? Best get it on a dyno to see what the ECU is doing. I'm not as familiar with Skylines, but my mate's S15 was drinking like a fish after he did the exhaust / FMIC / boost control mods. Once he had a PowerFC installed and tuned, it ran a lot better. But yeah, lay off the boot and wind down the boost. Its not like you need maximum power around town. If your ECU is tunable, get a more fuel conservative tune. Also, weight reduction. If there's a whole bunch of crap you don't need in the car take it out. Umm...jack your tyre pressures up? You'll get a slightly less grip, but you also lower your rolling resistance. Check your alignment as well. Running too much toe can cost you as much as 10% of your maximum power (as one of my tuners noticed on another customer's car), which means your engine has to generate more power to accelerate and hold speed than otherwise. All this depends on how often you track the car, where you need maximum power and an aggressive suspension / alignment setup. If its primarily a street car that you have to daily drive, I'd set it up for that instead of the once-in-a-blue-moon track session.

250km out of a tank? Consistently? How many k's are you doing a week? Gas-guzzling people like you are the reason why we're using so much oil, which is why the demand is outstripping supply, which is why prices are so high.

I had to borrow a set of tyres for a while, and I ended up borrowing a mate's Nankang NS II's. As long as you're aware that the marketing guff is just that, and use them as commuter tyres that you'd stick on a NA hot hatch, they're fine. I didn't go carving up a mountain road on them, but to get to and from work they were more than adequate.

In-tank mixing doesn't actually mix the two fluids very well. I realise that they should dissolve perfectly into each other, as per what they teach in high school chemistry, but in reality rarely ever homogeneous. Think about when you mix a drink - if you don't stir it forcibly it with some kind of stirrer it doesn't actually mix homogenously. Even shaking your drink around doesn't really get it to taste the same from start to beginning, so driving the car like you're a racer trying to warm up their slicks isn't going to do the job. So unless you want to install a giant stirrer into your fuel tank and sit there like a witch working her cauldron every time you fill up, its not going to work. Especially over something as measely as 10c/L (between 98RON and regular ULP). If the quality and properties of the fuel coming down the lines is changing every few minutes, I don't think most ECUs are fast enough to cope. Which means your car might run rich one minute, and then lean the next.

Understeer is as much about setup as it is about drivetrain, unless you're talking about intentionally powersliding a RWD car. I've driven plenty of understeery RWD cars. And the RenaultSport Clio gets sideways at the drop of a hat. And I remember when the FWD RalliArt Magna came out, and it was faster in a straight line and around the bends than an SS Commodore. Falcodores are popular in this country because they're bigger, better at towing shit, and locally made. Most Australians don't give a toss about "performance" (aside from push-back-into-the-seat overtaking moves), and some people just won't buy "Jap crap". And the local fleet discounts are usually a lot better than imports, which is why you rarely see Magna / Camry / Avalon taxis. Everyone else has covered the reasons why you see so many sports models in FWD. They're not purpose built sports cars - they're "modified" econoboxes and family hacks. Even Honda, who have made a name out of FWD sports vehicles, still power the right set of wheels when they custom build a sports car from scratch. That said, I don't mind FWD sports cars. They're easier for the novice driver to drive quickly. I doubt there would be many non-race drivers that could pass me in a stock RenaultSport Clio with a near-stock RWD Skyline on a twisty backroad. Not because I'm a particularly good driver, but because a light FWD car makes it easier on bad drivers to go reasonably quickly.

That's not unreasonable for a performance car, considering..... My N15 SSS cost me that much to insure from NRMA as a Under 25 drive a few years ago.

What he conveniently forgets to mention is that Japan's registration laws are designed specifically to weed out cars older than around 5 years (I think its 5 years, its some low number). It doesn't matter if the car's modified - a dead stock Corolla is still not financially viable to register in Japan. A stock 10 year old grey import is still going to be a lot less polluting than a stock XB Falcon, or a 30 year old Mini, that they're quite happy to keep on the roads. But then a polly has never let the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth get in the way of cheap political points among the ignorant masses.

Waah. Waah. Waah. Have a bit of a whinge. "I drive a Skyline and The Man hates me. Woe is me." Every Nissan coupe gets picked on, whether its imported or not. You reckon Z32, S14 and S15 owners don't cop shit just because they're Australian delivered?

If the rims are 17", then they're not that style. The 17" 350Z rims look like this.

Cool! If you can ever figure out how to remove the clock, you'll be able to pay for a tank of petrol.

Hey, when NSW first put in their P platers laws they banned all turbos...including the Smart ForTwo and the low-boost Volvo S40T and Mercedes Benz C200K....cars that weigh 1.4 tons and have less power than a 1 ton RenaultSport Clio. But with all the marketing hype these days (remember the late 80s / early 90's when all the whizz-bang stuff was "turbo") its instilled that mindset into the older generation. The quite powerful but very laggy oldschool turbo cars didn't do much for the technology's reputation either.

Holes in the flux capacitor can cause leaks in the Watts linkages, which in turn reduces the available charge in the polariser. Without it, your spark plugs run too cold and you don't get good ignition.

Too bad Pearl White is a discontinued colour..... ;-)

I had a set of RS-V04s for a while. They were great once they heated up. Too bad they're not actually street legal in Australia. Also, can you tell me where you got R-Comp Azenis in that size? I can't find that tyre size for any of their R-Comps on the Falken Japan web site.