scathing

You should get at least 1rwhp. It's a 18-20 year old engine of unknown history. Even if it were dead stock it would be impossible to guess how much power it makes now.

They look good. Now to get them powdercoated to a colour that contrasts well against the body.

Looks like I'm out after all. I forgot that I have a second birthday party that night. Have fun guys. Be safe.

What if you don't have any friends? Hopefully the cops will think you have one instead, so you can get carted off by the police McLovin' style for driving a turbo on your P's. Then there'll be an earthquake measuring like 8.3 on the Richter Scale, from all the panties dropping as a result of your outlaw ways.

They run rich compared to the other cylinders. The "280ps" lower intake runners are longer than the "300ps" runners, and with the way the upper plenum slopes down (and the fact that the air comes from the back of the engine bay) it means they get strangled. The spacer gives more room for air to make it to the front of the plenum. I doubt you'd save any noticable amount of fuel. They don't run that rich in terms of what comes out the exhaust pipes, or otherwise they'd fail emissions. Assuming the car's running perfectly in every other cylinder you're only running a little rich in 1/3 of your combustion volume. 1/3 of f**k all is still f**k all.

It's a shame that Takakaira appears to have stopped trading.

The kind of help you need, the people on here aren't qualified to give you. Try here.

Not entirely true. From the Hertz web site: Drivers aged 21-24 years may be eligible to rent subject to an age surcharge. Age surcharge is $27.50 per day including GST (Airport Concession Recovery (ACFR) maybe added subject to rental location). I believe that other companies have similar requirements. You can't rent a really fancy or sporty car unless you're 25, but to score a Corolla or the like can be done pretty early. They may require a full license though. If you can drive, it shouldn't take too long to pick up. If worst comes to worst, go to one of those Learner instructors and ask for one lesson in a manual. They'll teach you the basics, then its all just practice.

I might be able to make this after all. On the 28th I'm definitely out, but for the 21st I've got a birthday party in the Shire that afternoon. I should have my replacement exhaust on the car by this weekend, if all goes well, so it'll give me a chance to test out how annoyingly loud it will be in the real world.

For more rear end grip. Yes. Your speedo will over-read more than it does already. Your ABS may (but probably won't) trigger prematurely. Your VDC may trigger prematurely. Possibly, but probably not. The undertrays will have more of an effect on aerodynamics than the slightly raked profile. Also, what's to say that the rest of the suspension isn't configured expecting the front tyre to have a smaller diameter than the rear, and is relatively higher on the body to compensate? The front tyre has a slightly smaller diameter than the rear, so assuming that the rest of the suspension mounts are the same the front would arguably sit lower. However, to keep the chassis level I find it unlikely that Nissan would have done that. Your speedo isn't that inaccurate. With your profile drop and relatively narrow width, your speedo only under-reads by 1.3% compared to stock (which over-reads a bit anyway). f**k yeah. That width and profile is stock on an 18" rim - its way too high for a 20.

It's hard to say. The 350Z comes with 2 different calipers. Or, at least, there are 2 part numbers for pads. When I tried to get replacement pads for my OEM non-Brembos, they eventually had to drill down to my VIN number as date of manufacture left the Spare Parts dept with 2 part numbers. The OEM Brembos are identical between the Z33 and V35. If you want OEM, speak to Nissan. Aftermarket, I generally source my consumables for my Z33 Brembos from VSport.

Alright, so we have a time. What about a date?

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time. If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time. Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

The 4 variable cams are only available on the late model VQ35DEs. It's harder to find an ECU that can make use of the exhaust VCT.

I wonder how emasculated the guy in the other lane was? He would have pulled a healthy lead out the hole, but then you would have blown past him like he wasn't moving by the time you "got around" to actually driving.

Lucky you. You're one of only 2 people I've spoken to with unrattly Nissans. I wish I was that lucky. My old N15 had quite a few dash rattles, and started squeaking when the windows went up after a year or two. There was a fair bit of suspension clunking too, after a while. My Z33 has had dash rattles from the moment I picked it up, with 24km on the odo. And that's on their halo car, not some cheap entry point vehicle. At the first 3 services I complained about it to Nissan, who couldn't do anything about it. It picked up even more rattles all around the cabin, some intermittent, as time has gone on. Most of the S14s and S15s I've been in, back when they had low mileage, have had various rattles. My mate's old Maxima was the same. Same with the imports I've been in, like Skylines and Silvias. Compared to my old man's entry-model BMW, which is a quarter of a million kilometres old and still pretty tight, you can really sense the quality difference. The only consistently unrattly Nissans I've been in have been V35s.

Some of them are, especially if a trader has brought them in for commercial sale, but if people are just cruising Yahoo! Japan auctions for cheapies there are some really ratty ones out there. The thing is, if the used JDM wheel has been resprayed it could be hiding a multitude of sins. My bent TE37 was resprayed, and you wouldn't know what they'd been through via casual inspection. The "biomatter" comment was on whether I'd buy second hand jewelry for my missus, not wheels. I'd expect anything imported to be properly cleaned for quarantine purposes too.

In terms of maximum size, your best bet would be to get 320-330 mm rotors (350Zs/R34 GT-Rs run 324mm). 355mm rotors with big calipers will fit under certain 18" wheels that have a large internal diameter, but most will struggle. A mate of mine ran an Endless BBK with 355mm rotors on his car, and found out the hard way that 18" Volk Racing RE30s don't fit over them. Massive brakes don't add safety if you're doing a single panic stop. In most modern cars with power-assisted brakes, traction is the limiting factor to your stopping distance on a single panic stop. If you want to stop faster in the case where some kid runs onto the road without looking, get softer tyres. What tyres are you running right now? The benefit of massive brakes is the amount of heat they can absorb before overheating their components. That only comes into its own if you're hitting the brakes a lot of times, or standing on the brakes for a very long period. I do. The usual "Stage 1" upgrade of all the consumables (pads, rotors, fluid) should cover you for your intended purpose. Going to a more aggressive compound in the pad and rotors will produce more friction, which provides more braking power. To that I'd also add a master brake cylinder stopper and braided brake lines, to improve initial response. If you want to dress up the brakes a little, get your calipers powdercoated in another colour. With those minor upgrades, even if you were to bury the brake pedal into the carpet from 120km/hr to 0km/hr at maximum deceleration on a set of hot R-Comp semi slicks there's a good chance you'll still trigger your ABS (which means your brakes are providing more force than the tyres can handle). There won't be enough heat generated to fade out the brakes during that one stop. If your driving style then has you re-accelerating back up to that speed and jumping on the brakes again, and you repeat that action a few times, then yes your stock calipers and rotor sizes may not cope no matter how heat-resistance the consumables are. But I'd be more concerned at what the cops will do to you when they catch you, than anything else. As others have said, you can get adapters so you can run a larger rotor so your wheels get filled out a bit more, but without the expense of buying calipers. Get the stock calipers powdercoated if you want to add some extra bling there.

I used to have one. I loved it and it always ran without missing a beat, but the interior trim was very rattly and it was squeaking in a fair few places. Yep, that's what I said. Pretty average build quality. Most Nissans I've been in have rattled and squeaked, most straight off the dealership floor. The bits that make it stop, turn and go are generally bulletproof but everything else feels like its not quite firmly attached. Those characteristics are fine in a fun sporty car, but not as desirable in a daily runabout.

Yeah, I'd agree. There's nothing wrong with stock brakes using upgraded consumables on most light tune cars that aren't getting raced. And big brakes, in general, aren't going to provide you with that much more decelerative ability than the stock ones unless you're decelerating forcefully on a frequent basis. The cheapest braking solution for someone who is primarily interested in aesthetics would be: 1. Buy these "caliper upgrades" 2. Knock up the same kind of rotor shields that Honda uses on the back of their their Civic Type-R

Fark man, the last time I drove past a kindergarten with my foggies on, a dozen cute little toddlers dropped dead and their bodies exploded. Won't somebody think of the children?!?!?!?!?

I got OEM Brembos off a 350Z courtesy of someone upgrading to a Project Mu setup for AutoSalon. It happens more than you'd think. Small rotors and calipers don't fill out huge diameter wheels, and weight (even unsprung) is a good thing to hold your car in place while you stand next to it, or as you roll down Chapel St.

How big are your wheels? Your brakes can only be as big as what will fit under your rims. How much power are you aiming for? Kudos for doing support mods before ramping up the power. What is your intended use for the car? I'm assuming if you riced up the car first, you're not planning on attacking the track every weekend in it. JustJap used to sell G4/D2 brakes, which have had positive reviews on here by people who use them for actual motorsport use. I can't find them on JustJap's site now, but they sell "K Sport" kits for the same price. Which are also around $2000 per pair. I have yet to find a review of them yet. Alternatively, used OEM isn't a bad idea. OEM Brembos off a R34 GT-R / 350Z / V35 Skyline will fit under 17" wheels, and provide reasonable performance as long as you're not making a shitload of power and using the car on the circuit. They're going for around $2K front and rear, last I checked. OEM Evo Brembo brakes are apparently cheaper than OEM Nissan Brembos, and still work reasonably well. I haven't really looked though. The V36 370GT Sport Skyline and 370Z run a 14.1" rotor with massive calipers from the factory. I've seen pics of one person in the US destroy the dust boots on the track (thanks to craved), but for normal use they'll do fine and the size will fill out a 18" wheels. Riverside Infiniti in the US sells them for a not a great deal. Maybe $2.5K for a full kit front and rear, if I remember correctly. Add shipping and the cost for custom brackets, and you might be up $4K for OEM quality big brakes.

Bulletproof setup for street drivability? Sell the car and buy a GTT. The faffing about required to either +T your DE, or even do a DET engine swap, and get it OEM reliable is more than the financial hit from selling your car and buying another one. The GT-T is more than just the engine. Gearing, cooling, brakes, etc all add up cost- and complexity-wise. If you want a "bulletproof" fast car, get one that came from the factory (with a warranty) fast. Then do light bolt-ons on that. Nitrous is a waste of time for drivability. You have to keep the bottle warm and purge before you use it, and it runs out too quick. A VH45DE conversion would be cool, but it would take a shitload of effort.

Gallardo Spyder. Once again, Raging Bull vs My Little Pony vs trumped up VW Beetle vs stretched TT. No contest.