scathing

V6 Supercars sounds pretty homo. Almost as bad as I4 supercars.

I just realised that neither of the other 2 cars is really usable in their current states. I guess I won't be coming at all. Its probably all the years of track use with R-Comps on. I did break 3rd gear last year, after all. Whiteline says they'll have polyurethane ones out soon, so I'm still about a month away from getting the Z back to 100%.

I'd come, but my diff mount bushings are torn. I don't want to load up the driveline too hard with big launches if the diff is moving around. I could bring a non FM platform car as a maybe.

The thing is, the exhaust is only pressurised while the engine is working. Come off the throttle and the exhaust is going to de-pressurise. Same with the inlet tract going the other way. It's no different to having the snail right next to the block, but the time it takes to re-pressurise when you pick up the throttle is going to be far longer. It's that part I don't get. Proponents claim there's no response loss, but I can't wrap my head around how that's possible while meeting my understanding of the laws of physics. If you're drag racing, or have a bit engine with lots of torque, its not an issue but a 350Z owner in the US was using it in AutoCross and said it worked fine. The Camaro is basically a Commodore, though, and the V6 isn't exactly a tyre fryer either.

The RT215s have been discontinued for a while, so any stock left will be quite old. I'm not sure how much that matters to some people. I will say that I'd agree though. I used to have RT215s and they're the best streetable tyre I've ever driven on. Falken's replacements, the RT615s, aren't much chop in comparison. I've heard from some people who've driven on RT215s, RT615s and Kumho KU36s in reasonably powered cars who really don't rate the Kumhos. They will be cheap, though, but not my first choice. Also, with a treadwear rating of 140 they won't last long. Bridgestone RE001s are a good choice. I've also heard good things about Toyo T1Rs.

Fair enough. Text is hard to convey tone sometimes. I got a bit of a "Why don't you let the big boys get back to work" with a pat on the head kind of vibe. I've got NFI about coilpacks / spark plugs whatever (which is also why I don't work on engines). I got the impression from the thread that the coilpacks and plugs in the RB are so close together that they're easy to mistake for a single unit, whereas he might be used to them being more separated (or cars with no coilpacks at all). From the assumed knowledge in his questions it seemed like he just wasn't aware of how the RB specifically was engineered, not that he'd never pulled anything off any engine before. Every new car requires a bit of learning on how it all works and the easiest way is to associate it with things you already know. But hey, its nice to see the tone go more civil here. It's amazing at how this "community" can mend its fences when everyone's on the same page, which is only possible when some people stop talking poo.

The OP left it out, but the goal of the American tuner is to beat the R35 around the Nurburgring. http://www.motorauthority.com/blog/1034092...rgring-lap-time The Camaro is built on the same platform as the VE Commodore. A modified car being quicker than a stock one isn't astounding. What I find stranger is that they're going for a STS turbo, which is basically where they put the turbocharger in the spot where the rear muffler used to be rather than right off the exhaust manifolds. The Americans seem to be falling in love with that setup, although the physics behind it still baffles me.

Then yeah, he's right. By his own definition, of course, which is so skewed as to be worthless. The turbocharger helps the engine make power .Without it, it makes less power. Calling it "cheating" is bullshit, though. A Holden 308 has practically double the displacement of an RB25DET, yet back in the mid 90's (VS Commodore and R33 GTS-t days) they made practically the same amount of power. Put in new sleeves and crank and de-bore and de-stroke an old Holden cast iron down to a 153Ci (2.5L) and see if it'll make as much power as an RB25DE. Embiggening an engine to make power is just as much "cheating" as going forced induction. Both involve having more air and fuel go bang. Both are relatively easy routes to make power, rather than using engineering. If you extrapolate his logic further, then the only car company that doesn't "cheat" when it comes to making power is Honda. The S2000's 2.0L engine makes 180kW, just like the 308. It doesn't need a massive displacement, nor does it need forced induction. They do it by building a technically excellent engnie. Well, "smarter" is pretty debatable. A big NA 2V-per-cylinder V8 with large displacement has less complexity than a twin cam turbocharged I6 for the same power. The golden rule of engineering is KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid). It makes it easier to work on, and if built right fewer moving parts also equals fewer things that can wear our ot break. Being NA its less sensitive to heat, which is great if you're trying to drive it in the Outback. I also happen to prefer the throttle response from an NA car. I like the relationship between throttle inputs and acceleration to be immediately linear. I do enjoy boost ramping up in the straights, but through the bends I much prefer instant-on torque from NA. Having power and throttle response is smarter, in my books. The older engines also made a bucketload of off-idle torque, where the RB26 needed quite a few revs on board to work. The lower rev limit also makes it more suitable for being mated to a slushbox. It would make it a far better prospect for towing, and driving around town. I've driven a couple of small, economy-oriented turbo I4s (Polo, turbodiesels, etc) and while it is nice and pretty flexible once you're rolling it still can't match the old V8 Commodores I've driven off the line. In the end your average Aussie V8 goes into a family car. Its intended purpose is different to what most people buy an RB powered Nissan for, and so it was engineered to suit.

I see plenty of questions getting asked, and most of them get treated on their merits (or lack thereof). Some people try to do research themselves, but struggle to work out how everything gels together. Their understanding of basic principles and keenness to learn comes through, even if the finer details are lacking. Then you get idiots who just can't be bothered trying to help themselves by looking for information first, or get it from dubious sources, and then ask basic questions (or make pie-in-the-sky goals) that anyone with half a brain interested in the topic at hand would realise were disconnected from reality or a 10 second Google search away (not referring to AYW550's specific query here, but in general). Breathing is easy too. Ease doesn't make it something not worthwhile to do. There are so many stupid people in the world, and it makes me sick that our technology has advanced to such a state that they're not getting culled by Darwinism. Who says bozodos and mad082 aren't helping? It brings to mind a favourite quote of mine: "There are a lot of stupid people in the world, and if you don't tell them then they will never know". Personally, I think bozodos is more in the wrong. It was a bit condescending to tell AYW550 to keep away from working on motors because he doesn't understand how one implementation works, and then totally blow his top when it was pointed out (and not exactly in a massive insult) that he'd also gotten something wrong. But hey, I won't fault the attitude that being rough while accurate is more important from a technical standpoint than being polite but wrong.

What's wrong with that? They won't touch a car that they don't have any knowledge on. We never got the RB25 Neo engines Australian delivered, and they're very different to the early 90's RB engines that did come in officially, and the rest of the chassis and its electronics are going to be the same story. How much more would Nissan Aus lose if they worked on this car their staff aren't trained on, broke it, then had to pay for repair? Lets face it, the average monkey working at a stealership isn't going to land a job in an F1 pit crew in the near future. It's this attitude that is why Nissan Australia was so gung-ho about not letting private importers bring in R35s. They won't support the car with all its Japanese language stuff, and various other differences to the car they're bringing in, but because it wears a Nissan badge any issues the owners get with a car bought from a third party gives them a bad name. There was plenty of talk about how "people who buy imports know they're getting imports, and are happy to work outside the OEM chain to get the car cheaper" on the forums when it was news, but you're proof that Nissan Australia's attitude was sound business practice for them. As a company they'd be better off stopping any of them getting in, and avoiding the bad PR, than just taking a more passive approach and assuming grey import customers aren't thick.

It's not impossible. Just unlikely. My guards are not rolled. They comply with your "0-5mm inside the guard" rule, and it doesn't rub under heavy load. Even if I reduce that negative camber in the rear, it's fine. I'd agree that they look better if they were out another 5-10mm or so, with a bit more neg camber dialled in, but as it is they sit reasonably flush. ++ A lot of tyre retailers seem to be completely ignorant to the concept of offset. I've seen people posting up threads on other forums with the recommended wheels for their cars, with widths half an inch wider than stock but with higher-than-stock offsets. Talk about appearance fail.

Lets have a squiz, and try and put 2 and 2 together. It sounds like a method of reducing cost and complexity to me. Fewer coils = fewer parts (for mad082's quote). It also lets you run a lower spec ECU (in bozodos' case).

If you've established a relationship with a mechanic already, and you trust their work, I'd keep going with them. Changing the fluids and pads isn't exactly brain surgery. Especially if you know him well enough to trust him to tell you when something is out of his depth, and not just try and fudge it. That's what I get from Proconcept and Powerplay. The quality of the work is always good, and if they don't feel confident doing something they'll warn me first...or tell me they'd rather not do it. That they'll turn down business is more valuable to me than someone who'll take my money and then try and figure it all out as they go along.

ROTA Australia has an eBay store. I dunno. I've heard too many horror stories about ROTA wheels (not just the pic above) to want to run them in a motorsport setting. I'd be happy to put them on a street cruiser though, but they don't make the wheels I want in a size appropriate for the car.

You keep crapping on about "fake power". What the f**k does that even mean? I would agree with your cousin that most Aussie V8s do make raw hp and torque, by which I mean "underdone".

Wow, someone can read a brochure. I'd better street race her so I can get a trip to Japan and learn to dreeeeaft.

We're not allowed to say bad things about companies so what I will say is that Ben left Bel Garage to do Touge Tune. Quite a few of Bel's customers liked Ben's work and followed him when he left. Since then, I haven't heard as much positive press regarding Bel on forums or in magazines. It might be the GEC resulting in fewer people being able to build big-budget cars, it might not. A least 1 guy who used to be on 350Z-Tech had his car taken care of by Ben since starting Touge Tune, so he's had some hands-on experience with the car.

I just noticed that. Cheers. It's a shame they don't come in an appropriate size for a MR2, or otherwise I'd get a set.

IS Motor Racing in Rockdale Powerplay Imports in Drummoyne Aside from Proconcept, these two I know have had plenty of hands-on experience with FM platform cars and their mechanics aren't dodgy bastards.

Nismo badges and stickers should be available at most half-decent retailers. Try some of the sponsors. Performance Nissan Parts sells chrome NISMO badging, but its expensive.

The peacock feathers and mating calls will grab their attention, but chances are they won't book you for something that's not mechanical. You'll probably just find yourself getting "randomly" breath tested a lot. When they hear your car is so quiet, and not decked, they will probably just stick to making sure the tyres have legal tread. If you've got the big stereo cranked they might bust you for noise if you've been a tool, but chances are the bonnet won't get opened unless they're really wanting to find an excuse. If you want to avoid any attention then leave the car stockish, especially on the outside. If you are happy with a bit of attention but want to avoid getting defected then your plan should be good enough.

Here is the RTA Vehicle Standards Information sheet on alternative wheels and tyres. I am assuming he OP is from Port Macquarie NSW. I'd suggest giving it a read. You cannot run a narrower wheel than stock, the 7" wide wheel is out. Anything wider than 8.5" is illegal. You can only go 26mm (or 1") wider than the stock wheel. Offset-wise you can only run 12mm lower than stock to keep it under the 25mm track increase limit. I can't seem to find any data on the stock GT-T offset (I've seen everywhere from +35 to +45) so, whatever you've got stamped on the back of the rim, knock 12 off that. As for how big the diameter you should go, that's going to be up to your aesthetics and your budget. Low profile tyres are generally not cheap. I personally think that 1-2" bigger than the biggest stock wheel gives the best look in terms of the ratio between rim, tyre sidewall, and wheelarch size. But that will also depend on the design of the wheel as well.

Your expectation is that big, shiny, wheels, thumping doof-doof, and a bodykit will turn the heads of the ladies but not the boys in blue?

It's even worse than people who put those massive banner stickers on their cars of their model/make. Like, how many people haven't seen a Commodore before and need to see the word "HOLDEN" covering the top quarter of the windshield to figure out who makes the car?

TE37s have 6 spokes. You would have been better off guessing LM GT4s if you were going to stick with RAYS wheels. I would have hazarded a guess at the ones below (minus the DT-05Rs, which I'd never heard of and the spokes near the barrel don't quite look the same to my eye).