scathing

You say it like its a bad thing. I'd say that was a better reputation to get than the reputation of places like boostcruising, ns.com, etc where people say that you've got no f**king idea of what you're on about. Then you just become the butt of every other automotive enthusiasts' joke. At least here they'll be saying, "They're pretty harsh on stupidity, but its where you go if you want the right answer". So did I. But when more knowledgable and experienced people corrected me I didn't sit there arguing with them about it without any kind of evidence to their contrary, or at least some logical hypothesises based on scientific/engineering fundamentals. What accomplishments has she got that are worthy of respect? Respect freely given is worthless. It should be earned to carry any weight. Good parents should correct their children if they've got false pretences, and give them a good smack if gentle encouragement of the truth doesn't seem to be working.

Who gives a shit? Tell me more about the dose.

Because you both talk a lot of poo. Like, I don't think 2 flushes is going to clear that backlog. Maybe in Need for Speed Underground, but not in the real world. If you don't have the balls to handle the opinions of others, whether you like them or not, maybe you should re-evaluate your suitability for posting on an Internet forum. If you want to make power, you just need to stuff as much air into a cylinder as you possibly can. The ultimate powerhouse is a large capacity forced induction engine. That way you get shitloads of compressed air to go bang. So to answer your first question, "both". To answer your second, no. Euro V12s make a shitload more power than V8s. And the most powerful production car engine in the world is a quad turbo W16. V8s are just a mid-level engine. Better than your entry model 4 banger, but not the same as the superstar V12s or above.

335kW is the limit of the stock fuel system that isn't replaced in most entry model TT kits (and that's on the dyno, so you wouldn't even consider it a "safe" level for street use). I am pretty sure most of them only do the injectors and pump. To my knowledge from the 350Z side of things, 400rwhp (approx 300rwkW) was what they considered the limit for safety. It depends on if the G35Driver guys are referring to flywheel power or not, since then they'd basically be talking about the same thing. I am aware of one local who ran around 310-320rwkW with the stock bottom end on his car, but he eventually popped the motor. The guys I know who leave it at the 260-280rwkW the stock APS kit runs at, and track the car pretty regularly for years, haven't had issues.

They'd have to be pretty broad minded to be willing to be seen in a Japanese Volvo.

None of the above. I'd save up money so I can sell it and buy a fast car when I get off my P's. But that's just me. I like driving fast cars fast. It depends on your priorities. If you don't care about how fast your car goes then, by all means, rice up the vehicle. I wouldn't throw money into a car I wasn't planning on keeping for a while. If you don't mind going slow then stick with your 25GT. Do the suspension to clean up the handling a bit, and use your money get it to look and feel the way you want it to. If you're planning on selling the car when you get off your P's then I wouldn't bother doing anything at all. It's money you won't be getting back and money you wouldn't be getting good value from.

Skylines are built for tiny Asian blokes to shag in. Maybe people should buy Stageas to get roots.

*cough*Sandman*cough*

'Glass' is relative. The stock NA bottom end will only take around half a bar of boost before it dies. That's a pretty low amount of boost, which is probably what gives it the reputation. There are a lot of people out there chasing numbers, and 7-8psi isn't something you can brag about to some 2JZ-GTE driving mate. But when you consider that most of the twin turbo kits pushing that kind of boost make 280rwkW (which is about all the bottom end will take as well) then it doesn't seem that glassy. That's a usable amount of power in most people's books. There aren't many stock NA motors that will let you go FI and make that much power reliably, regardless of when it was made.

Like what? The only twin turbo cars I can think of are: Mitsubishi 3000GT Toyota Supra Subaru Liberty B4 Mazda RX-7 (and then you get in to expensive stuff like the new BMW twin turbo I6s, and exotica) Secondly, there's not much of a gain between the twin turbo and the single turbo (so its not really a good analogy to a NA vs FI discussion). At a certain point even the DETT guys end up going to a single turbo anyway. The biggest advantages to the RB26DETT over the RB25DET isn't the second snail. If the GT-R guys came in and said if you can't man up and buy an active AWD Skyline (which provides a real benefit), and that there are better RWD turbo cars to buy then the response would be "yeah, you're right".

I don't see you stopping your posts trying to defend your position either. Pot? Kettle? They don't have to be right. In the case of Skylines, though, they just are. Case closed. You aren't NA because you prefer NA, but only because you can't afford to go FI. So all your bollocks about "power not being everything" and "liking NA" is just a bunch of insecure posturing to deal with the fact you own an inferior machine, that you now can't change.

I feel sorry for you NT guys who now need to sit at 130km/hr on the Stuart. That's a lot of extra time to spend in the middle of the desert, especially since alcohol's more likely to be an issue than doing 160km/hr.

OK, I see a heat shielded pod. Where's the panel filter in that pic? It can be done, but from a performance perspective its pointless. You're just adding needless complexity and you won't see any more airflow. If you run the pod and panel in series, it just adds an intake restriction because the engine has to suck air through 2 filters. A single filter will provide enough filtration so the resistance decreases performance but doesn't add any safety. If you run them in parallel (so you use a Y pipe to join the 2 together) then your total airflow is still restricted by the size of the intake pipe downwind of the Y pipe. You could just have 1 pipe of that diameter and see the same cross sectional flow. At the same time, 2 different airstreams merging creates turbulence, which is also bad for airflow.

Shit yeah. What a hottie. As an aside I think the Ferrari California is leading my "worst car design this century" list though. I didn't think much of these rebodied Golfs when I first saw them, but after seeing a few in the metal while I was in Europe I've changed my mind. They look great. From a non-aesthetic perspective, I quite like the design of the Toyota iQ as well. It's cute, and it can carry 3 people in something with a tiny footprint. The perfect city car.

Any idea how much they'd cost to ship to Sydney?

Well, if you're comparing your "sports coupe" to a family sedan then no f**king duh. For an even more pointless comparison, why don't you say that your car is faster than turbo because you can outrun a truck or a bus with a turbodiesel? There are plenty of NA 6's that would defecate all over your car, performance-wise. That you haven't seen them just shows that you're either not looking, or not going to particularly nice places. Or get a NA 4 banger, of which there are plenty of seriously quick ones out there.

How about a full car immobiliser system, with all the trimmings? Aside from the various cutouts, auto window lifters and turbo timer, how about adding a feature for modern cars and include a fly-by-wire cutout? That way the engine can be left idling with the system armed, but since the car doesn't accept throttle inputs it can't really be driven. It might also legally let you get remote ignition, if you couple it to a speed sensor to re-kill the car if it detects the wheels turning without a key present. You could also fit a system so it'll only remote start the car if its not in gear, to avoid the issues one of my mates had with it and a brick wall in his Commodore. Alternatively, the current fad with a lot of aftermarket parts is for OBDII readers. I'm quite fond of my GReddy Intelligent Informeter. Why not integrate a turbo timer into an OBDII reader? Most OBD systems supply water temp (but not oil temp, as far as I'm aware) and the turbo timer can calculate its "run on" time based on that. Then have it read/display various data, with a peak recording (or even stick in some flash memory so data can be recorded/logged). If you can find out how to read/clear basic error codes from various manufacturers that would be nice too. If you wanted to add smarts to the system, some of the "eco" oriented systems also provide mileage info. OBD will also pull RPM data, albeit with a little lag, so you also integrate a shift light into the display.

It must be the only thing it has going for it, since regular people don't seem to like the place. If you're only going to own a car for a year, get the cheapest one you can with the best resale. It's a placeholder, so the less you spend on it the more you can spend on the car you actually want.

Actually, a driver with half a brain wouldn't bother racing a 6 cylinder VN. So the fact that you NA Skyline guys apparently do.......... My girlfriend's MX-5 goes faster in a straight line than her ex's R34 GT. When you get beaten by a hairdresser's car in acceleration you know your vehicle fails at performance. If you're talking engine swaps, you can put in anything you like with enough money. And what's wrong with dropping a V8 into a car? FI kits for Commodore engines (both 6 and 8 cylinders) are relatively cheap and you can screw a bucketload of power out of them. Yes, its full of these things called "facts" that people like you can't refute. It does seem to be a problem for you. What I love is that this thread started off about NA vs FI, and almost all the NA guys are (favourably) comparing their cars to taxis and almost no mention against the turbo variants of the car (i.e. the point of the "venting"). I guess they subconsciously know their cars can't compare and so they just try to distract everyone from the point with SAU's favourite punching bag. Also, just because someone who calls your car a shitbox also owns a shitbox doesn't make their claim any less truthful. As an aside, as far as I'm concerned if you're driving a Skyline coupe that isn't a GT-R you're a poseur. It's the AWD twin turbo model that has earned the rep internationally for the "Skyline" name as being one of the best point-to-point cars on the planet. Anyone who's bought a car that merely looks like it because they wanted a "sports car" called a "Skyline" is a wannabe, trying to ride the coat-tails of the legend. And as for people who bought R33s for the way it looks, they seriously need to get their eyes checked. At least the turbo ones have some poke to make up for the ho-hum styling. FYI I've got nothing against NA cars. Just against NA variants of what should be a turbo car. I'd say the same thing to Impreza RX owners. Just like I've got nothing against RWD cars, unless the AWD version is the one you'd actually want.

38 offset fails. Even if they fit, they're going to look like shit and be illegal to boot. The rest of your numbers don't even make any sense.

I'm a maybe at the moment.

Try Maltech, otherwise. If they've made the lines for other R33s they should have the required data on file.

Or you could go to www.350z-tech.com, that has a strong Australian membership and plenty of technical information already.

Then don't waste your money on NA mods. None of the NA powertrain mods can be retained when you go TT, aside from the plenum spacer. An 06 should also have the REVUP engine, that doesn't really need the plenum spacer.

Lightened flywheels are awesome. They make the engine a lot more rev-happy and responsive. You might get a bit of rattling, but its a small price to pay for awesomeness. A heavy duty clutch is only really necessary if you're making too much power for the stock item to cope with. I wouldn't bother on a NA car, unless you plan on turboing it in the future.