scathing

Power assisted brakes and steering are for poofs. Enthusiast drivers want no corruption in feel from the control devices. Harden up everyone. Don't even start me on throttle modulation.

A competent driver in a good car doesn't need AWD either. Your ABS dash light comes on when your ABS unit has a fault. If he checks his dash, and he should to at least check his speedo occasionally, he'll be aware that ABS is non-functional. But a competent driver doesn't need a dash either, I suppose. You can just learn to judge speed by watching how fast the scenery moves, determine your RPM by the engine noise, and work out if your car's having some other engine fault by feeling the ECU cut power. sav man's got a point that every day is not race day for a street car in the real world, and distraction or tiredness can affect your ability to react in a timely manner. All it takes is some kid (or animal) to run out from between 2 big cars. Something you're not likely to see. A reflexive stab of the brakes with a swerve to avoid in the wet could put you in big trouble. As an aside, in a modern car with decent ABS the car is quicker with than without. It'll pull up faster more consistently, and it'll allow the driver to trail brake with less concern of having the car under or oversteer. The original ABS was a bit useless, like any Version 1 product, but the refinements made to it in the last several decades has made it a viable electronic performance feature.

The turbo kit itself originally came off a V35. My mate bought it, but never fitted it. The cars are practically the same in the engine bay. The exhaust will need extenders, as I am pretty sure he sourced the cat-back separately and it's in a 350Z length.

When the last fuel crisis hit, small car sales went through the roof. Now that the price has dropped again, Americans are buying SUVs and moving away from small runabouts. The love affair with yank tanks will never end, I don't think. The only way to stop them from buying uselessly massive cars is to add disincentives.

A few teams used to use fuel coolers in parc fermé overnight to stop fuel from evaporating out of the tank. This was when they weren't allowed to refuel between the end of qualifying and starting the race. They'd cycle the fuel out through a chiller and pump it back in. I suppose when races are practically decided by fuel strategy, every last millilitre counts. Otherwise, I'd opt for the density answer Skyrin3 said. Aside from being able to fit more in the tank, denser fuel means more fuel for a given volume. This means you can move more fuel over a certain length of time. In a competition settled in the thousandths of a second, refuelling a split second faster could also improve placings. Colder fuel could theoretically increase power by cooling the charge air as it goes in, but I'm not sure if the fuel can really stay cold in the tank. I can't imagine its particularly cool anywhere in a F1 car, and with the refuelling neck behind the driver I can only assume the fuel tank is near the engine.

Word is that it's not the entire stretch. It's just in a "short" span where they're doing work on the cliffs, because of falling rocks. So instead of hitting loose debris and possibly sliding off the road, you're now increasing your time in a location where hard shit falls out of the sky. Ask residents in the Wollongong / Shell Harbour area how safe that is. Honestly, most "street racers" going up there flat stick will have an instant loss of license even with the 60-80km/hr limits. Dropping it to 40 doesn't change a thing for them. Assuming the above isn't true, it's just another case of a law hurting law abiding citizens with no effects on the people who ignore the rules.

Lots of reasons man. 1. FM sounds like arse when its working well 2. Constant interference and our choked spectrum means it's hard to get a good signal 3. Unable to change tracks on the head unit / steering wheel controls I tried using a FM transmitter for a while when my OEM CD player died. I ended up using a tape deck converter. It sounded slightly worse than FM, but at least it didn't cut out or buzz.

I'm not sure if this is against the forum rules, but I'm not making any money off this and I figure the people on here will be interested. A mate of mine on 350Z-Tech is selling an APS TT setup. Full details here, or contact him direct.

You're not likely to run mid 13's on just $3K worth of mods. A catback will cost you $1K used. A pair of R-Comps in 17" (the smallest that will clear the brakes, you might get 16's to clear non-Brembos) around $800. A tuned piggyback ECU will be another $1500 (give or take). You'll see 14 flat to a high 13 with that. The problem is most of the cheap and easy weight reduction is coming out of the boot, which you don't want. I've got a 350Z, which is lighter than your car but pretty similar otherwise. With dead Falken Azenis RT215s, a HiTech catback, and a Unichip I've done 14 flat. A better dragger than me on fresh tyres would have gotten into the 13s (I can't remember if my 60' or my trap speed wasn't the highest of the night on that run, but it wasn't "perfect" and I know I'm shit at getting a car off the line) but I don't know if you'll do a mid 13 even if you are a driving god. You're unlikely to get them that cheap. The car needs 2 cats. The cheapest I've seen is UAS at $250 each + labour for custom flanges On a NA car you're better off with something that goes into a single mid pipe, for a good area under the curve. $1-1.5K used for a JDM catback, a bit lower for a used HiTech. I'll get around to going to the drags in a few months, and see what it runs on dead RE55S. The last time I drove the car on an...erm....private road the G-Tech said I ran a 13.8 ET, and that was before the shorter final drive.

That'll go perfect with these.

It takes about 90hp to dose.

Why not try the V35 subforum? Even though Chris Rogers isn't in Sydney, he knows enough people that he can probably recommend someone local.

Air intake temp is pretty pointless, in my opinion. I've got a GReddy Intelligent Informeter which pulls water temp, voltage and air intake temp from the OEM sensors (as well as a bunch of other data). You could get something similar if you actually want to know something rather than just ricing out your interior. Then you could just get triple gauges for what the OEM ECU doesn't read, like oil temp, oil pressure, water pressure, A/F ratio.

A mate of mine was telling me about a BMW track day his boss went to. Flying down the main straight of EC in an M3, tried to go from 4th to 3rd to prepare for Turn 1, hit the gate and pushed harder, and found 1st. I only got symptoms similar to what you're describing when I fitted a JUN flywheel in my first box. Stock flywheel/clutch it didn't do it. I did a Nismo clutch/flywheel when I fitted a second 'box, and it's the same now. A little rattle on idle with the clutch out, which stops when I clutch in. It only happens when the driveline is warm though. I'm not sure if the Nismo flywheel is dual mass or not, but I heard it was. That might be the flywheel for a single plate clutch instead though.

P.S. S15 looks heaps better than R33.

That's in the eye of the beholder. Unless one of those "supporting mods" is nitrous or active cooling onto your intercooler core, the dynos pulling that figure must be very downhill. Most S15s I've seen max out the T28 at 200-210rwkW. The GT-RS is rated as a 400hp turbo, if I remember correctly. That's all the air it'll flow, full stop. It doesn't matter how big the engine is - if you can get enough exhaust gas through the impeller to flow 400hp worth of air through the compressor then that's all you're getting. Power is made by mixing air and fuel in a fixed ratio, so if you're only supplying 400hp worth of air then your engine, regardless of displacement, is only going to make 400hp. In peak power maybe, but the RB25 will be much fatter in the midrange to hit that 260rwkW. Total area under the dyno graph is what's important to people who want to compete in the real world, not just on paper. But only the S15 has VCT rattle. It'll sound like a diesel, even if it doesn't make torque like one.

The ones with the decent NA engine (SR20VE) are pretty rare on the ground in Australia. The DE, at 105kW, isn't much to write home about. I'm not sure what NA performance mods you can get for it either, since most guys with a bit of coin to spend end up with U13 SSS Turbo or GTiR motors in theirs. I asked my mechanic about why he went for EK Civics over N15 Pulsar VZR-N1s for NSWIPRA, given that he was pretty focused on Nissans at the time, and he said the main thing was the Pulsar is a much harder chassis to set up properly.

Not sure, since my interest in FI has waned a lot (if I have the $10K to put down on engine mods, I'm building mine to displace 3.8L and rev to at least 8000RPM). Most of the FI guys were saying that more than half a bar stresses the rods too much. How the Americans figured this out is beyond me APS advertised their standard TT kit for the VQ35DE at 290rwkW @8-9psi on their site, but the installed figure that customers end up with was more like 280rwkW @7-8psi (figures with rounding). The problem with a supercharger kit is that winding the boost down means buying a new pulley, which costs money, or fiddling with a bypass valve (which means your engine is taking parasitic loss for no power gain).

I heard the old VQ35DEs don't like more than around half a bar of boost, long term. Still, it'd be a nice power getter.

Borrowed from here.

Neale Wheels in South Strathfield fixed my TE37 when I bent it hard. A lot of places said it was unrepairable.

I've heard that if you thrash it straight off the bat, it'll free up faster and make more power early....but the engine life is reduced. The best advice I ever read about running in an engine is "Listen to your engine builder. They're the one warranting it if it breaks".

There's a guy in Canberra with one, but no-one in Sydney that I am aware of.

Hey guys. The 350Z-Tech guys are heading down to Robertson Pie Shop for some lunch this Sunday. V35s are more than welcome to come along. There's a Hard Tuned cruise heading down to Wollongong on Sunday as well, so if you were planning on going to that meet then this might fit in nicely.

Entrapment is only illegal in the USA. It's a legal practice for Australian police to engage in. It's totally immoral and against the spirit of our legal system, as far as I'm concerned, but you can still get busted.