scathing

Get KaleCo Auto ones. USD$70 for their cross-drilled brake lines.

I've got a turbo timer in my NA car, but it's integrated into the security system and didn't cost that much extra. If I ever remove the alarm, it'll be a selling point. Electronically, though, there's nothing stopping you putting it on any internal combustion engined vehicle. On the street I turn the car straight off anyway, but when I'm at the track I use it to idle down and cool the fluids that extra minute while I've walked off with my keys.

Found the image here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/marcuscookeph...phy/2743685100/

It will free up a bit of power, but is it worth the "bend over and f**k me" fine if you get EPA'ed? If you get test pipes, get resonated ones at least. The resonator will make it look like a cat at least, and remove the rasp.

There's a legal defense that talks about lingerie Kylie Minogue models? "This court case is useless without pics."

If anyone tries this thing out, post up a review. I am very keen to see how it goes.

It lacks the fancy LED of the Pivot unit, but it's adjustable and does the same thing.

All an electronic controller does is intercept the signal from the throttle pedal, and amplify it going into the ECU (or whatever electronics controls the butterfly). You could do the same thing just by pressing the gas harder. It will simulate better initial response. I've heard a lot of scuttlebutt that says that the VQ35DE ECU closes the butterfly at higher RPM, regardless of pedal position. If these controllers can fool the butterfly into staying WOT all the way to the limiter, then they're definitely worth it. Every retailer I've asked so far has been unable to answer this for me. If you're in Sydney and you want to give it a go, give AAI Motorsports a call. They're the official importers of Buddy Club, and they're offering an obligation free "try before you buy" test of their unit.

Yeah, I really like the V35's "round + rectangular" tail lights. These: are just not on.

My mate's V35 on LE37Ts painted in Top Secret Gold

There's a dude trying to sell a 535rwkW V35 on Carsales (Carl). See what he's done to his box, because he's had that setup for a while and he hasn't grenaded the gearbox yet. The 03 boxes have a reputation for breaking (but that's even with NA bolt-on specs) but there are guys who've gone FI and tracked their cars (250-320rwkW) for a few years without breaking them. It sounds more like dodgy QC rather than an inherent design fault.

A Volvo 240 is in the 1300kg range (which puts it in GTS-t territory, or older GT-R turf) and the engine bay will easily accomodate a boosted Holden 308. Most of the people here have opted for drag sleds, but Tassie has some of the nicest corners in Australia. I'd consider a lighter corner carver that blows away bogans driving outside town. There's one thing to leave some Dunnydore driver eating your dust off the line, but there's something else to have that driver eating trees because they've fallen off a country road trying to keep up with you in the bends. I'd contemplate something like a Mitsubishi Galant VR4. 2.5L twin turbo AWD, but because they're so uncommon chances are bogans won't know what it is. Unlike the Liberty RS Turbo (or B4 if you can afford it) it doesn't have a giant bonnet scoop to give the game away. Just paint the FMIC black. Alternatively, something like an MX-5 with a 13B turbo conversion. Everyone assumes your hairdresser's car is slow, but it'll haul arse in a straight line and spank people through the bends.

Just making sure I'm talking about the right thing first. It is probably the OEM rear diffusers. They smooth the airflow leaving the rear wheel well. On the Australian delivered 350Z, it's standard on the Track and optional on the Touring (I ended up picking up a set for my Touring from the USA). Apparently the Touring has a Cd of 0.30, and the Track (with a small chin spoiler, rear bootlid spoiler, and these rear diffusers) drop the Cd to 0.29. When I spoke to Pro Concept about it they told me they took theirs off their race car. Like you, Josh said the only thing they were good for is collecting dirt whenever they came off the track. If it takes those 3 items above to drop the drag co-efficient by only 0.01, taking them off will probably do sweet f**k all.

Correct. Wheels don't just come off cars. Off the top of my head, I can think of / heard about / seen: * The wheels were changed and the nuts weren't put on properly * The wheel is fitted improperly so the back of the wheel's hub doesn't have a full contact with the brake hub and the load on the wheel studs is uneven * People buy shit wheels, which have warped, that apply uneven loads to the studs * You run spacers with stock wheel studs, and the nuts can't get a good purchase on them * You run spacers with shit studs (stock or weak lengthened ones), and the load finally sheared them * You don't maintain it and your wheel bearing packs it in Negligent maintenance and ignorant modifications aren't "freak accidents", and are just as possible as someone maliciously going to find a wheel brace that fits this person's car and then using it to loosen the wheel. Out of curiosity, how is a person intentionally loosening the wheel nuts on a car that is going to be driven afterwards a "freak accident" rather than an intentional act?

To go with his Falcodore? As an aside, are there any Aussie manufacturers that make good quality and reasonably lightweight (for cast construction) wheels?

Are you using it as a cold air intake before the filter, or replacing the piping between the filter and throttle body? If its the former, you can use almost anything waterproof. I used air-con piping.

If you want to get the same performance as this, without the hassle of having your car off the road and getting your hands dirty, give me $160 in $10 notes. The weight reduction in not carrying over a dozen notes will be even more beneficial than sticking an intake restriction on your car.

Is it behind the wheel? Almost like a L-shape when viewed from side on (a vertical piece, with a flat horizontal tray) where the horizontal bit is a quarter circle? There'll be one on either side of the car, but have different shapes.

I've got one on my 2003 350Z. I don't know if its worth it unless you have the 221kW engine. The sites selling it advised that its designed for the 221kW engine, but may provide smaller gains on the 206kW donk. For the money, its a big gamble that could be spent elsewhere. I can't tell you if it did anything, since I had my cutout bumped up, extractors and high flow cats installed, and an ECU retune to match the mods, when I did the MREV2. People with the latter engine get a rebate if they send in their OEM collector, which leads me to conclude that the MREV2 Lower Collector is a modified 206kW collector. The 221kW collectors have shorter runners, improving high end breathability at the cost of low end revvability. Tests have shown that the 221kW collectors only come into their own past 7000RPM, which means they're not a particularly good buy for anyone running a stock motor.

I've heard of a similar problem. The guy I bought my JUN from had the same problem, plus he found himself having to ride the clutch in from higher RPM (like 2K) to not stall. Mind you, his car had a rebuilt engine to Nismo S1 spec (internals, head work, cams, etc) which made it a little more sensitive to drops in low end torque. I get a similar problem when I disconnect my ABS. Sometimes when I start the car it'll stall without a blip. Sometimes if I clutch in for a long period the revs will drop and it will stall, so I'll quite often have the engine cut out when coming to a halt. Plugging the ABS back in stops it.

I had a JUN 14lb flywheel in my car, mated to an OEM clutch. At low RPM it rattles, especially when you load the driveline in a higher gear. The acceleration was improved, and when using the clutch the RPM didn't flare as much (despite a lack of throttle pedal input) and dropped faster, making it easier to upchange faster smoothly. Heel-toe changes were also easier to do since the throttle was more responsive to blips. I did lose some ability to go up some hills in top gear, and having to change a bit more did negatively affect economy while commuting. All in all, a worthwhile purchase for a performance driver. I don't think I could go back. The JUN is for sale now, since I've got a Nismo Coppermix in the car.

Yes, they are. They're made in the Phillipines, a country not exactly known for its manufacturing quality. If you're just ricing it on the street in a low powered car then they're fine, but I wouldn't run them on a good car being driven properly.

Someone who wants to modify their car legally? Doing something properly, and ensuring that its road legal, has always been more expensive than a slap-dash job. So it's illegal then, putting your setup outside the scope of our discussion. The ADR is that the car at its loudest possible, user-controllable, state is how they test it. If you ever get pulled up for a proper noise test, they'll test it with the valve open if you can open it in-cabin. If its pretty much stock volume closed, then from my experience with the Varex mufflers there's no way it's going to be legal open.

The illegality of the active muffler comes from it being user controllable. If you have it completely automated, and only set to open at a legal point, then technically it should pass (which is how all those modern supercars meet ADRs with their active mufflers) Hyperflow sells a (very expensive) butterfly valve with control unit that allows for tunable automation. If you don't install the in-cabin switch and set it to completely automatic, technically you could get it engineered if its tuned correctly.

The original question isn't if the car can be used as a daily, but whether its much "fun" at nominally road legal speeds. The second and third lines I quoted are basically agreeing with me on the "fun" factor, and the rest is talking about its daily drivability (which was never in question). What kind of car were you driving prior to the GT-R, where you needed lots of throttle to maintain 120km/hr in top gear? I'd hazard to guess that most cars with a half decent engine and gearing don't need more than 15-20% throttle to cruise at 120km/hr. What I'm saying is that if you're "frustrated with any car where you have to use so little throttle to maintain cruising speed", you're not going to be satisfied with anything more than a Kei type car.