scathing

Hey guys. I'm selling my TE37s. The specs are: Front: 18x9.5 ET22 5x114.3 Rear: 18x10.5 ET22 5x114.3 (In terms of TE37s these are as flush as you can go with standard alignment gear on a Z33 or V35.) The colour is a custom shade of gunmetal, which is a mixture of Nissan gunmetal and Nissan black. A little bit of gutter-rash. see pics. I am keeping the front tyres. The rear tyres are Falken FK452 285/35 R18. I will also include new Volk/RAYS stickers (not genuine, but a really good copy), in either blue or black. I am also keeping the centre caps. More pics can be found here: http://www.au-z.org/gallery/v/forsale/18inchte37/ Asking $2500 ONO. Will ship interstate at the buyer's expense.

Hey guys. I'm selling my TE37s. The specs are: Front: 18x9.5 ET22 5x114.3 Rear: 18x10.5 ET22 5x114.3 (In terms of TE37s these are as flush as you can go with standard alignment gear on a Z33 or V35) The colour is a custom shade of gunmetal, which is a mixture of Nissan gunmetal and Nissan black. A little bit of gutter-rash. see pics. I am keeping the front tyres. The rear tyres are Falken FK452 285/35 R18. I will also include new Volk/RAYS stickers (not genuine, but a really good copy), in either blue or black. I am also keeping the centre caps. More pics can be found here: http://www.au-z.org/gallery/v/forsale/18inchte37/ Asking $2500 ONO. Will ship interstate at the buyer's expense.

I've got a set of metal cats that I got second hand. The guy who got them originally just cut the flanges off the stock cats, and welded them to the aftermarket cats.

Front won't fit with stock suspension. You will need camber arms. Rears will fit fine with stock rear camber adjustment. Even without rolling the guards. Really? That's the specs for my TE37s (on 18" wheels) and mine sit in a bit. Even with 5mm spacers it's still not dead flush.

I have no idea when the 2010 Category Guidlines file was uploaded, but this is what it has to say: "Vehicles from Asia" sounds pretty clear-cut to me. Fair enough the Aurion shouldn't have been a competitor given its country of manufacture, but if the 350Z was tidier than yours it's a worthy winner for the category defined above. FYI, there are also a few 2002 (or early 2003) grey import Z33s floating around. They'd be wearing FairladyZ badges (unless the owner rebadged them, which seems unlikely) but they do exist.

Have you got a copy of the rules anywhere? Fair enough I'd be unimpressed at the Aurion getting a showing (since it's manufactured in Australia), but a 350Z is an "Asian Import". I don't see anything in the title requiring the competitor car to be a grey Asian import. But they're not all made in Asia, so BMWs, Mercs, etc wouldn't have been in your category.

Dude, you never got back to me on the price for the subframe. Can you PM me a price?

The OEM 17x7.5 +30 rims from a Z33 will clear the OEM Z33/V35 Brembos (this is on the front). What are the stats of those rims you're looking at?

Torsen diffs will always cost more than clutch-pack diffs. If you want cheaper you could always get a clutch pack diff, and deal with the non-linear lockup. The 180SX comparison isn't fair either. By 2005 your 180SX was 10 years old, and so its market was quite mature. Even now the car is about 7 years old, and you've had 5 years of inflation to deal with. Greenline has the Kaaz 2 way for the 6MT cars for $1300+ shipping, which isn't that far off what you paid for your 180SX's when you factor inflation into the mix.

Your car is insured if the authorised driver is driving it, when it comes to comprehensive car insurance. The setting of the premium, excess, etc is all determined by the risk of the authorised drivers. Why do you think they ask you all those questions about the drivers when you try to get a policy? It's not because they make money talking to you about things that have no relevance to anyone. Since most young people end up with Just Cars, here's their Product Disclosure Statement So unless the owner of the car says you weren't allowed to drive it, there's no insurance cover for you. Of course, if the owner says that you weren't given consent to drive it then technically they're accusing you of stealing their car. That means you run the risk of criminal charges. From NRMA's PDS: I can assure you that every other insurer has similar clauses on their comprehensive insurance (which I inferred was the type of insurance we were talking about). Actually, looking at the PDS for NRMA's CTP insurance: I can't be bothered looking up the PDS' for other insurers, but you get the idea..... If you do have an accident that you can drive away from without witnesses, then you can try committing insurance fraud and pretending someone else drove it. If there are witnesses, the insurance company can basically tell you to get f**ked and you won't have a leg to stand on. They may not do that, but there's no guarantee they'll cover you if you're a P plater in a prohibited vehicle.

Dyno numbers depend on the dyno. Different machines with different operators will give different readings. For example my car used to pull 180rwkW on CRD and Unigroup's dynos here in Sydney, but only 170rwkW on APS' in Melbourne with the same mods/tune. They all used Dyno Dynamics in Shootout Mode. All that should matter to you is the difference pre and post-mods, as a percentage, and what it will do in the real world. You should only be concerned that your car is making less power than everyone else's if you run back to back rolling acceleration tests and you're significantly slower. You should be able to hit 200rwkW on "happy" dynos with all the bolt-ons, and a set of cams. I've got everything bolted on to my Z33 and, on CRD's dyno, I got around 195rwkW I think. If I had a set of Step 1 cams in my engine so it would rev all the way to 7200RPM (it chokes out at 7000RPM right now, and levels out from around 6800RPM) 200rwkW on their dyno shouldn't be impossible with otherwise standard internals. Bear in mind that's on a 280ps engine - on a 300ps engine I would probably be hitting 200rwkW on their dyno by now.

The rule on the V35 being banned was changed recently (it used to be legal). If you can prove that you bought it before the rule change, you're safe. If not, you're screwed. You have no insurance, which means if you have an accident you'll basically go bankrupt (not something you want on your permanent record). Putting your P plates in the glass seems good in theory, but the law was changed a year or two ago saying that displaying them there was illegal and you'd still get booked for not displaying them properly if you do this. In other words, you may as well not have them there at all if you're not going to put them next to your license plates. You might get a warning, but if the cop is in a bad mood they'll do you for it. I've found, anecdotally, that NSW cops enforce this more than the Victorian cops too. As for Wikipedia, don't trust it. The RTA updates its site so use the latest list linked from the web page on there when you buy a car. They might not delete old lists from the site, so you can still get access to it directly, but it won't be linked if you go in from the home page. Apply for an exemption. If you bought it near the rule change period you might be able to get leniency on it since you bought the car in good faith. You could claim that negotiations on the car started before the rule change, but the paperwork was only done after the rule change which is why you missed the cutoff.

From what I've read from the US Z33 owners, the Quaife works really well on AutoX and track days. And that's from guys who've upgraded from the VLSD as well as the open (in the US the base model Z's have an open diff).

I love helical LSDs on street cars. My Tomei drives me nuts, to a point where I miss the VLSD. If I had money I'd consider selling off the 2 way I've got at the moment for a Quaife. And yes, helical diffs behave like 1 way diffs. Another property that doesn't make them ideal for drifting is that, if the two output shafts' relative speed difference is too great it reverts to an open setting. That's not a problem for street use, but if you're kerb hopping on the track where you regularly unload one wheel (or intentionally trying to break traction) then it won't be ideal. For comparison, the stock S15 diff is helical. And people who end up using those Silvias for drift/motorsport bin the diff sooner rather than later.

225/45 R17 or 235/45 R17 (but same size all round). I can't remember exactly. If you want them you can have them. I don't have 17" wheels anymore so I've got nothing to put them on. They're at my parents' place in Pymble but I'm happy to drop them off. Your best bet otherwise, if you just want some shagged R-Comps to track on so you don't destroy your street tyres, is to call up the motorsport tyre suppliers and see if they have used semis. You won't be setting lap records on them, but it means you won't be destroying your street rubber. I got a set of 17" A032Rs from Gordon Leven Motorsport a few years ago in 235/45 R17. They were on the wear bars, and very heavily heat cycled, but they were $80 each fitted. The grip levels were probably below a decent street tyre's, but they were reasonably cheap and the construction means they don't overheat and go greasy or get a lot of squirm.

How shit can they be? I've got a set of Falken RS-V04s that probably only have 1 track day left in them (they're not legal for tread depth), and they've been sitting in my shed for like 2 years. Where are you based?

And my favourite ROTA pic: Before a track day: After that track day And a shot of a front and rear wheel (it was on a 500hp Civic) Those wheels should be identical.......

Sounds like the problem was him. The Z33 is lighter and more rigid than the V35, and R-Comps alone should have made a massive difference. Low brake fluid will trigger a fault code in the car's VDC system. It'll drop into "limp home mode", where those dash lights come on and it disables ABS/VDC. Sometimes if you have massive spins the VDC will shit itself due to the crazy inputs through the ABS sensors and throw up a fault, but restarting the car usually fixes that immediately. If you parked the car up and it was still doing it, then it'll be something else. Fix up your brakes, and the problem should go away.

That's because the RE760s aren't the same as RE001s. The tread pattern is the same, but the tyre compound isn't. The RE760s have a treadwear of 340, whereas the RE001s treadwear at 220.

Higher offset than stock (i.e. reducing the wheel track) = illegal, bad for handling Using wheel spacers (to increase wheel track) = illegal, may require "supporting mods" (i.e. stronger and/or elongated studs), bad for handling Sinking wheels further into the wheel well = ugly

How would spending money on crap that performs no useful function, and would be hard to give away afterwards let alone sell, help you: 1. Meet your "beef up the brake system" goal? 2. Resolve your "financial constraints"? I'm actually quite curious.

The rules can be found on the RTA web site here. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow.../vsi09_rev4.pdf As for the wheels, they're hideous. As a general rule of thumb, if it's made by Vault then it's going to look tacky and cheap. If they're sold at Tempe, you can be sure that the offsets will not suit a V35. Those things do look like hubcaps. The little bit of dish will help, but it's not going to offset the size of the spokes (fat spokes are a classic hubcap technique, since they hide the steel wheel underneath) and a lot of the "hubcap" look comes from the really cheap chroming that they do on these wheels. It doesn't have the bright and deep look of real metal, but more the "painted on plastic" finish you find on hubcaps (or Hot Wheels cars). Then in a few months, the chrome starts to cloud and they start to look even cheaper. There are some quality chrome wheels (the Weds Kranze LXZ's on my mate's S14 would look sweet on a V), but unfortunately they're expensive.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se....html&f=170

If my car's been serviced, I'd love to have another shot at the Creek.