scathing

HRE multi-piece wheels can be made to order. As long as it's physically possible in their construction process, they'll do it. It's one reason why I'd get HREs if I was to replace my wheels (again). If I find a design I like, I can get the colours exactly how I want them (both the barrel and the spokes) and I believe you can do custom offsets as well. I'm not sure if HRE specifically will do it, but some US guys who do 2 piece wheels let you pick your offset (rather than having to choose it from a list of available).

Should be way more than 3s. If it'll pull 3s on a 1:40 lap, simple math would say you'd see around 12s over 7:26. However, since R-Comps also tend to have a greater heat capacity than regular street tyres, they're less likely to go greasy at the end of that period so the driver can attack harder for longer, meaning you might see even bigger gains.

Adam you're right - they need more dish. If you've got pumped guards, and the GT-Rs always do, you need to have a bit of dish (or at least a concave spoke face) to give it that look of phatness. In isolation those P40s look good, and they'd look great on a car where the flanks drop straight down on the guard without flaring, but we have to have dish!

Your average Australian doesn't really seem to get into UTQG data for some reason, so they don't publish it. The US site (www.falkentire.com) has the UTQG data for all of their tyres, and the RT615 is 200. That puts it a bit higher than the RT215s (at 180) and significantly higher than the Bridgestone RE-01Rs and Federal 595RS' (at 140), let alone proper R-Comps that have sub-100 UTQGs. In the end, I made a conscious choice to go for them as they do have a reasonably high wear rating. They'll grip well enough for street use (I save my hard driving for the track these days) so I'll take the tyre life over ultimate grip.

I hate to break it to you, but if you went into a corner fast enough to lose traction then you weren't driving at a speed suitable to the conditions...and that's against the law.

I've got a turbo timer integrated into my car alarm. Insurance legal, which is a plus. It's not "intelligent" and based on water temps, loads etc unlike standalone units. If you drive for less than 3 mins it won't turn on. Otherwise, it just idles the car for a minute.

People make 19" R-Comps these days. You could run 19" RE30s instead, and hopefully get a better sizing. Apparently Toyo just released a 20" R888 as well.

Daily tyre. My mileage is going to drop now, so I'm happy for the extra grip. My RT215s on my old 17" TE37s lasted me 20,000km so that's good enough, considering the RT615s are a harder tyre. I will continue to avoid tracking my daily tyres, and either run R-Comps or the Nankangs. My fastest on RE55S is a 1:10.2 on a damp track in winter, but that was after I did a lot of track days in a short period so I had lots of current experience. My fastest on Nankang NS2's is 1:13.something in winter, but I only got half a day before I shat 3rd gear and I know I wasn't driving at my best. I haven't used decent street tyres on the track in at least 2 years, so those times aren't indicative anymore. Now that the car is in working order again, I'm looking at trying to set a new Nankang time. And finally break into the 1:09s on semis.....once I can afford new ones.

It suits the car really well.

Dig it.

I can't wait for Nissan Australia to announce that the VDC won't be switchable either.

I've been in the same boat. I was going to go with some mates but rained the day before, so they called it off. Drag racers should harden the f**k up, and learn to race in the wet. Have the tyre guys develop a wet weather drag racing tyre. If circuit racers can do it in open wheelers on near slicks because the skies opened up in the middle of a lap, surely drag racers can have a go too. If it rains during staging and they're on dry tyres, pull them off. If it rains in the middle, learn throttle modulation or back off.

Not an appropriate size for me, unfortunately. I've order RT615s in 255/40R18 and 275/35 R18. My rear FK452s are still in great nick so I'll just bag them up, and pop them on when these wear out. Tempted to see if they have anything slightly narrower, as the woman's car needs tyres after she munched hers at a couple of skidpans and track days.

Does it run from the cat back, or is it from the Y-pipe back only?

Sick.

I just ordered a set of RT615s. Kumho's KU36s aren't in the country yet, and I don't want to go much lower in UTQG than 180 since they're street tyres and I'm not overburdened with power. We'll see how they go.

How many trannies have failed so far that haven't been because of user abuse?

The 400R style vents above the intercooler look so photochopped, I'd be embarrassed to publish it as anything but reader's amateur hour artwork.

414hp out of 3.6L is about 115hp/L. For perspective, the full volume S2000 engine makes 119hp/L and the Autech limited edition (but road legal) SR16VE in the old N15 Pulsar made 125hp/L. Neither of them would have the reasonably smooth torque curve of the GT3, but considering it's over a quarter of a million dollars you'd assume Porsche could afford to build the engine properly.

Is that because RB26's will make 286awkW with only an ECU tune and no hardware changes (not even an aftermarket exhaust) without blowing up?

I dunno. It depends on what they were doing at the time. If they were pushing the envelope, at least they now know where the limit is and what the motor doesn't like. "Blowing stuff up and then pegging back the next one a notch" is probably a bit more popular a tuning method in America, given what I've seen with VQ35DE modification (it probably explains why Edison is considered their greatest inventor). A lot of manufacturers will stress test their mules and wait for something to break. For example, Nismo found out that the conrod pins in a stock V35/Z33 VQ35DE could only handle around 7200RPM before they started to stretch, and they'd instantaneously snap at around 7800RPM. I can't see them figuring out those numbers without putting some pistons through some heads. It was the Americans who were probably the first to figure out that out the bottom end will only take around 300rwkW before the conrods snapped if you opted for non-natural aspiration, usually by aerating the side of the block. Assuming they know why it failed, Haltech will be one of the few tuners that do. When it boils down to it, their GT-R is a test mule as well. Their car was never going to be sold on to a customer or be used as a daily driver. From a regular person's perspective, it's better that they learn on their own car rather than a customer's. It's just unfortunate that's it's going to cost them a bucketload to get a new engine.

Spewter S15 with rice lights. That would be him.

The Tuners Group (they're now a vendor on here) are the official importers for HRE. Drop Adam a PM. RAYS, being as popular as they are, are quite easy to get from any of the reputable dealers straight from the factory.

EDIT: Whoops