scathing

Bells is locked in. Taking a vote on the site for when its going to be run, but it'll either be 2-3 weeks from now.

Go nuts. Your second paragraph invalidates your first. You're not comparing just cars (which is the topic), you're now comparing cars drivers. Take the driver out of the equation, and unless you're talking about a seriously modded GTS it would still run higher times should your member hop into those turbo cars (s)he passed and give it a go. And so my ignored statement still stands. The GTS is not a particularly good point to point machine. A good driver drives around those deficiencies, but those deficiencies are still there.

I wonder how the best of the Euros would stack up? The track is relatively small, compared to modern race tracks, but I wouldn't mind seeing them driving a worked Clubman or track-pack only Ariel Atom S2 Supercharged stacks up against these cars. Then there's the "serious" cars, like RUF or Gemballa Porsches or that insane Audi TT Bimoto.

Yeah, changing your plates doesn't really matter if you're going to register cop-bait plates. I wonder if the other two plates were FUP16S and STRACR?

Pretty sure Nissan created something called the "Infinitely Drivable Ignition and Overlap Timing" system.

I suppose if you lived in Perth then Cabramatta could be considered an "Eastern" suburb....

I'm going to go with "none of the above" I love school holidays.

I thought the phrase was "cheap at twice the price"?

Then stay the hell out of a NA Skyline. The Skyline's way too heavy and soft to cut it on a twisty road or through the bends on a track, and the GTS lacks the power to punch out of corners and make it up in the straights.

Ahem If doing 60km/hr over the speed limit isn't your idea of hooning, then what in your mind does? Its not like you can accidentally stray that far over the speed limit. I think the cops were shit for pulling over some d1ckhead with a penchant for doing double the speed limit and driving on dead tyres too. They should have red stickered your arse and gotten you the fnark off the road.

I've always wondered about that phrase. Considering how long he's been out at sea with only his hand for company, I reckon it'd be really hard to pull a lonely guy on shore leave off any piece of skirt that showed an interest and a pulse..... And yeah, I forgot about the compression ratio thing.

Is your dad a tree hugging hippy with a severe reality disconnect? The state of electric cars right now is shit. Most of them have a really shit range, and because electric motors lack the power / energy storage capacity they have to be made light. Which, for a budget car, means flimsy. The only production pure electric car out there I'm aware of is the G-Wiz, and when their crash test results look like this: There was an interview in last season's Top Gear with Kirsten Scott Thomas, who owns a G-Wiz, and she said that the electrical system in the car's so pissweak that you can't use the wipers and headlights at the same time. With that kind of "safety", I don't think internal combustion is going to be in any danger in the near future. If you have a look at the future of automotive energy sources, you'll see that only a few people are trying to go pure electric. Most are either looking at biofuels, or hydrogen. Both are still internal combustion, the only difference is the fuel used. The basic principles are still the same. In this day and age, you can't expect that you only need to learn 3 years' worth of knowledge and expect it to last you to retirement.

Yes, replace the actuator spring with something that opens at 0psi and then use a boost controller of some sort to make it run more boost when you want it. It won't damage the car - with no extra air going through the AFM the ECU will still find itself within its standard parameters. It might throw up error codes if it notices that its not boosting when it should, but in a pure "mechanical failure" perspective it should cope with being run permanently off-boost. Of course, your car will drive like shit. You need to run a certain amount of boost to make up for the intake restriction that is the compressor and intercooler piping. The engine would run worse than NA if you set the wastegate actuator to open at 0psi. Couple that with the taller final drive from a car set up to expect more midrange, and you'll get something that even a Camira driver will think is slow. But, as other people have said, if you don't think you can drive a turbo car then don't. You had another thread trying to get some kind of electronic speed limiter, and now you're trying to un-boost a turbo car. Have you considered that the common thread (and the easiest thing to replace) in all of your car-related problems is, well, you and your choice of vehicle?

Electronic devices like that never are. They are really designed for a fleet environment, so managers can keep a track of their vehicles and what their drivers are doing. Selling to a business means you can sell at a price the residential market just won't stomach. That newspaper article I read said that one company was looking at getting into the residential space - a cheaper product may become available in the future.

Seriously? http://www.mi-trek.com/BuyOnline.html#Basic http://www.ja-gps.com.au/carminder_index.html http://www.delonixradar.com.au/GPS/ All of them came up when I Googled gps speed tracking sms and limited the results to Australia. I'm not sure if they're tamper proof - I read about that system in a SMH or Daily Telegraph article ages ago.

I couldn't tell from your spelling!

They couldn't secure a venue this time, so the lack of warning isn't as bad. IS Motor Racing doesn't exactly have a huge carpark. There's no way you're fitting 150 cars there, let alone 300.

The R33 and R34 are relatively heavy, especially for the 2.5L engine that's hauling them. If its your first car I'd suggest buying something you're willing and can afford to break. If you want to drive a sports car like a sports car, you're going to bend stuff. If you can afford to go to an R34 but you want fast, I'd say get an Autech S15. Lighter, shorter, more nimble, RWD, slightly better power / weight, but the chassis itself has been reinforced so it should handle better. Otherwise, the DC2 Integra Type-R is probably one of the most enjoyable driver's cars you can get. They've retained value very well, but they're a lively drive and quick car. And, unlike the current DC5, its a proper Type-R. If you don't mind delving into hot hatchery, consider a RenaultSport Clio. Little weight, and a very willing engine, and lots of grip. When I test drove one, I almost bought one.

His stats say he lives in NSW, not VIC.

How could you leave out the 30 and 31 if you like boxy cars?

No, even ricier. 350Z's.

Between 1900-2200RPM the HiTech does drone (pretty sure the Fuji doesn't, but I didn't really test it). Its not as loud or bad as most JDM exhausts when you say the word "drone" (the Buddy Club catback for the Z33 is horrifically grating when it drones) but, given how quiet the car is, it does stand out. Most of the guys in Silvias and Skylines I've taken and pointed out the drone thought it was a non-event. The biggest problem, of course, is that the above rev range is 6th gear at 60km/hr . If you're doing about 70km/hr you're fine, but if you're doing the speed limit it gets a reverberation every time you touch the throttle. I haven't noticed any drone since I installed the extractors and cats, but then I could just be so used to it that I don't notice it anymore.

I've seen people on other forums asking where to buy them.

The Fuji and the HiTech both sound practically stock until 3000RPM. Since you can drive our cars below that arond town, its only louder if and when you want it louder. The other thing I'm considering at the moment is a bypass valve for the rear muffler. The flange for the rear tank is just behind the axle, so I was considering welding one of those Y pipe butterfly valve things into it, and connecting the valved end to the tip on that side of the car. At the flick of a switch I can get my exhaust to only have the cats and mid muffler for sound deadening. Just need to find the bits, and the time.

Yeah, it pulled harder in the upper midrange. With just the catback it still won't want to rev to redline like a Honda engine, but I found that I was short shifting at 6000RPM instead of 5500RPM. I pulled 167rwkW on the CRD dyno with just the catback. I never baselined it, but the stock Z's on Dyno Dynamics dynos were pulling in the mid-150rwkW range. With the car now, I can rev it all the way to 7000RPM, and I did ask CRD to richen the it between 7000 and 7200RPM to act as a soft limiter. They said that it stopped flowing power past there anyway, which is probably the limits of the lower runners (I'm using the MREV2, which flows better than stock but not as well in the top end as the 221kW version ones).