sl33ek

I see. Ahh well I'll have to do that, its due for one anyway

Thanks SydneyKid, I was thinking there was a problem with one of those things too I'm doing the fuel filter this weekend and cleaning out the injectors. For testing the injectors is looking at injector duty cycle % enough to determine if it is faulty/clogged or not?

yeah and electronics hey, i hate troubleshooting problems. I'm sure its just one component thats misbehaving, thats all it takes

well yeah but its weird, I'd get it spot on on the bench, but I'd test it with the voltmeter and it would be out by .2 again. I dont think i want to put it in again hehe. I'm going to get another dyno done early next year and see if I'm running rich or lean and go from there maybe with an safc. I'm not bagging out the dfa, its great for what it is but I think mine just had gremlins Yeah Ben, thanks. Don't worry about the receipt, really its not your fault, you were honest about it needing to be calibrated so you didnt know. The black smoke got me puzzled too, my car never blows black smoke. After I removed the DFA the smoke was gone

yes, the input=output. Well, it was out by .2 of a volt but it was pretty much the same

it was all in fine mode.. Edit- I dont think I damaged anything, it drove exactly as it did before i put the dfa in for all of Sunday and to and from work today

Well I had it dynoed and the result wasnt good. I had it removed because my car was undrivable and I'm sure its because there is a fault with my particular DFA. On the Dyno my car blew alot of black smoke - enough to blacken their wall - at full throttle so that was a sign something wasnt right because I've had mates follow my car in the past going full throttle and they've said I dont blow that much smoke, only small puffs between gear changes. Then the big surprise was when the dyno found I was running dangerously lean (like 18:1). It still made good power (~158kwatw 400nm torque) They tuned it to the best of their ability to a safer ratio but it had a nasty dip in power in the mid range. So I left the place scratching my head. Driving home, I found the car hesitated at random, just like on the dip in power on the dyno graph, I'd be cruising in 4th or 5th at 2000rpm and it would feel like the fuel pump stopped for a second and come back on, so I pulled over, got a pen and wront down all the tuned values - and reset the DFA. But it still happened even after the reset so that got me sctrathing my head too. I drove around that night to make sure it wasnt a one off thing but the same thing happend after 15 minutes. Sunday morning, I removed the DFA completely, called a friend and I we went for a drive with him following behind me so if anything happens he can help. I drove for 200kms without a problem, so I felt brave enough to go full throttle up to 4th gear and my friend said he only saw small puffs between gear changes so it seemed fine. I dont think its the fuel pump and I've had the AFM tested and the spark plugs and cam timing. I'm hoping its just my particular dfa giving out incorrect readings. I havnt had time to test it on the bench again until this weekend to be sure Well thats my experience with it, I wish it was more positive but oh well it was still a great learning experience. Here's the dyno graphs DFA untuned, note how lean it is: DFA tuned to a safer AFR:

I found this really useful predator, thanks Just want to add that in my Series1 r33 my AFM wire was orange (with a thin light bluish stripe I think) - but it was in the same location as yours on the ecu

Cool another DFA user Will do Chrisso, I'd like to know your results too

Nice, and its pretty cheap too. Now i get it. I got a ipaq h2200 I'm using it for GPS only at the moment, and it uses bluetooth to the gps device, I thought it was going to be similar to that.

Cheers

Sounds great, I'll look up about Null modems thanks for that B) I wouldnt mind paying for the software, its worth it if it works ok and it would be alot better than driving around with a laptop. I'd love to have the PDA display different gauges on demand

I've been reading with interest too. I'm getting dyno tuned tomorrow with a Jaycar DFA (works the same as SAFC) I'll definately ask the tuner to check my ignition timing. Excuse my ignorance but is this a quick easy to do (adjust timing) because I only booked in for an hour. I got similar mods - 3" exhaust, pod, 10psi, stock intercooler - chugs fuel

thats awesome news about a PocketPC version being available NewKleer please let us know when its available and its cost *cough*Free*cough* Just a question though, how would you plug the consult into the pocketPC? (I got ipaq)

I've installed it in my car yesterday after work, it took 2 hours. Most of the time was spent double checking wires from the ECU. I wanted to make doubly sure it was the correct wires as I was very nervous about cutting the wrong wires. Ben, the docos you gave me came in very handy and the wires you singled out were spot on. I used female and male spade plugs for the connections and wrapped them in heat shrink. At idle when cold, it is at load point 31 and settles to 30 when warm, cruising is at load point 50-60 and full throttle it is at 95, so my range is 30 to around 95. I've done a conservative tune of -4 from load point 30 to 60 and -6 from load point 61-95. It was a blind tune, I had no info on what my AFR was, I know its dangerous, but I was careful and kept the windows down listening for any detonation. I noticed there was alot less exhaust pops (I have atmo bov) but performance is more or less the same, maybe a little smoother. I've attached pics of how the unit sits in my car

33% more fuel, I didnt realise it can be that high. Pretty sure thats whats is happening to me too But hopefully after the tune it will improve things! Edit - I just spoke to BelGarage, they can fit me in this Saturday because somone cancelled! They quoted $200 flat which includes 1 hour dyno time and a before and after dyno graph so I'm very happy with that. I'll post the results when I get the chance. They were familiar with the DFA too, they'ved tuned quite a few which is great, I thought I was going to have to explain it to them!

I've heard people from shops that sell these seats pronounce it as "Breed" also

Yeah the consult doesnt tell me what my AFR is unfortunately, at least I dont think it does. I dont really drive it that hard but I like to get to the speed limit at the click of the finger lol I can't remember my mileage before I increased boost to 10psi (just a bleed valve) but I got the exhaust dust on the bumper from the start. Not a good look on white paint

Ben, thats just what I found, it wouldnt boot (Red LED Lit) on in my car which had around 13 volts and on the bench it wouldnt light up too unless i gave it heaps of volts. Tuning the VR4 pot all the wayclockwise didnt help too, it was only when I removed the capacitor and resoldered did it boot up OK every time at 12V. The other joints looked like the pins were not heated enough to allow the solder to flow smoothly onto the pad. Thanks for the tip at idle, I'll see if I can get them to check that. I had an idea the consult cable alone wouldnt be good enough to tune this. I'm getting readings from my 02 sensor with it though, does it mean that it could still be faulty? I'm not sure myself. I'm really looking forward to this tune! Thanks again for the DFA man.

Hi guys, I bought Ben's ^^ DFA already assembled - Thanks Ben, i know how tedious it is to put together kits. I'm certain my car is running too rich because of the poor fuel economy (350k's to a tank) and exhaust dust on my rear. Its all working and calibrated now but there were alot of soldering problems, mainly alot of dry solder joints and some pins with not enough solder. The capacitor near 12V input was very dry and as a result it needed over 20V+ just to light up the red LED hehe. Its all kewl though I've gone through and resoldered every pin. I got a constant 5V signal too from a voltage machine I borrowed which had the ability to vary the voltage. I found the supplied tuning test pot to be extrememly sensitive and crap as you mentioned so I binned it. At the moment it is fully calibrated ready to go. I tested it by varying the 5V input signal, and the load points changed correspondingly on the hand controller from 1-128 and any adjustmenst made from the hand controller reflected in the output voltage too. I'm looking forward to installing it in my car this weekend, drive it around for a week and get it tuned the weekend after by Bel. I'm not game enough to tune it myself. I'll post my results in th near future! Cheers

PM sent

LoL one sec while i wipe tears from my eyes Anyway since you're all in a selling mood anyone got a cheap CF bonnet, I offered this workshop $50 which I thought was too generous but he slapped me on the head. I cant work out why, its not like I was asking for any change for the 50

Thanks SW20

Hi guys. I found this wedged under the passenger seat of my car, it looks like some kind of receipt from a previous owner in japan. Can someone who knows Jap please translate it in full? Wouldnt mind knowing what the writing on the sides is too, I'm pretty curious.

lol you slack kients Seriously though Cootiewild, for that kind of money the only thing you'll get is front cuts Good luck though you never know