mle808

All items sold!!! Please close....or edit thread... admins?

PFC + Controller sold...to Odium Other items still available!

Odium - PM replied No worries SargeRX8

Hi Located in Liverpool area, Sydney NSW Apexi Power FC + Hand Controller Used, suits R33 RB25 PFC serial: PFC RB25 9909-0025 HC serial: FCCNT 9907-0232 Comes with one of the factory R33 ECU brackets, stuck on with heavy duty double sided tape. Can be removed if buyer wants. Current tune from Hitman, for 11psi, full exhaust, air filter, bov and FMIC $1,100 Prefer payment on Pick-up but can post interstate Alpine CDA-9886 deck with Genuine Nissan single din compartment Used, Excellent condition - comes with everything pictured plus the original box & manual Single din compartment purchased from Rockdale Nissan for 350Z Ipod connection USB connection Detachable faceplate with hardcase Remote control Mounting screws Original box & manual For more specs see link > http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cda-9886 $200 ono. Prefer payment on Pick-up but can post interstate at additional cost 60mm Apexi EL mechanical boost gauge Used Black face with White/Blue/Red back lit text and needle Screws/mounts and light source connection included Does not include vacuum hose $50 Prefer payment on Pick-up but can post interstate at additional cost Genuine GReddy/TRUST Dual 60mm Pillar Meter Mount Brand new, never used but have misplaced the original packaging Suits Skyline - R33 GTS-t S2 - ECR33 Skyline - R33 GTS-t S1 - ECR33 Skyline - R33 GTR - BCNR33 $50 payment on Pick-up only. Not willing to ship due to odd shape/size.

Hi all, car is FIXED! Just wanted to report back in case this info is helpful to anyone in the future... Brought it to the tuners and it turns out the tune data got corrupt. Can't remember the exact details, but it was something to do with a corrupt water temp correction map causing ignition timing to drop to negative 80 on load. It dynoed at around 100kw at the time. Values were fixed...somehow.. and its now back to normal! Root cause is uncertain but apparently he has seen 3 r33 gtst power fc tunes get corrupt like so. Am thinking the ungrounded coil packs as described above may have played a part as the problem only started after this. Anyway. Also, I took it to Powertune in Fairfield because I didn't want to risk driving all the way out to Hitman and I have to say the service was friendly & efficient. Work was promptly done and I don't believe I was overcharged for their time. Chea took his time to explain the issues and was happy to answer questions I had. Will go back again. Next, need to check PaulR33's power FC FAQ again, and see how I can make a backup of the tune in case I need to reset the thing. And thanks to everyone for their input and suggestions....appreciate it.

Hi all, Spent most of sat trying to find this leak. If it exists I can't find it. Tighened every clamp and took a few suspect pipes off just to re-sit and be sure. Nothing. Also changed the plugs again and taped up the coils. No difference. Want to think of other ideas but will not rule out air leak possibility either. Something new I noticed is that when I get sudden drop in power(when not on super light load) is that the ignition timing readout on the controller drops to zero. Lifting off, the timing goes back to something that resembles the actual timing map values. This also happens in neutral and giving the throttle a good jab. Thought the power fc wouldn't retard timing automatically like the standard Ecu. Sorry I forgot to mention that I did the plug change in the place was that my fuel economy was falling. Any ideas about this timing change on even light load? Tried searching this forum and google as well, can't find anything specific. Thanks

Checked vacuum lines, all in the right places. Tightened up every clamp, no splits. I can hear a small hiss now. But can't bloody find where it is. It's down near the turbo side. I have the engine fan and pod filter going at the same time it's quite hard to even tell if it's normal. Its not the pod sound, but I can hear a muffled down version thru the top intake pipe. Either way a leak somewhere i didnt touch shouldn't explain why this is suddenly happening. I'm starting to think it's got more to do with the plugs or coils. Are these plug compatible? Do they take more current to spark than the iridums? Both sets are 8mm gaps. Should I try a new set since these ones are now black already? What are your thoughts?

Hmm, it varies. Can start before hitting 0. Depends on volume of air coming in I suppose. The more air/boost the worst it gets. Stationary, out of gear it revs ok. In gear, hard to describe. Its sort of like revs fine until 'too much' air comes in then it feel like i've hit a brick wall. If i continue keeping accelerator pressed I will eventually get smoke out the back. Lifting off the pedal makes the car picks up speed for a split second. Ok, I'll check the hoses are not mixed and the actuator too, although I'm not going past 0.7bar so I'm assuming that its getting the correct vacuum feed. Thanks

Sorry, yes rb25det

Hi guys, Haven't been on here in a while, my car has been trouble free for so long. But here I am again needing some sound advice after a massive fail following what should have been a tedious but fairly straight forward spark plug change over the weekend. -Changed plugs. Went from Iridium BKR6EIX to copper BKR6EYA -Put all the intake pipes & hoses back together -Engine would not hold idle. I can hear all sorts of relays clicking on and off, revs were jumping from 800 to 0. Eventually stalls after about 5seconds. -Take all the piping & vacuum hoses off again. Found the ground wire to the coil pack rails or whatever you call it, had snapped off. -Regrounded it back and screwed it back on the last bolt of that coil pack holder thing(near the firewall), then put everything back together -Started car, idles fine. -went for a drive and Noticed the problem as soon boost is building on 1st. Its like hitting a wall the more you press the accelerator. I get a sudden increase in speed as I back off the pedal. Its almost as if the pedal turns into a brake pedal. This is only when boost is made. Cruising on very light load is ok, no problems. Then today; -Checked AFM connection. Unplugged it whilst started, car stalls. Started car with it unplugged, it idles. -Checked for vacuum leaks or loose pipping, and...I don't think there are any. Checked vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner whilst on idle. No changes. Can't really hear any hissing noises either but its difficult with an exhaust. -Checked the coil packs to see if they were secured. They were. -Checked the plugs, all plugs were blackened apart from the very tip, even the white insulating part, assuming this would be expected from the massive over fueling (are they consider fouled now, or will they self clean so to speak?) -Put the same plugs back in (was iffy about this, was considering whether i should put the mostly worn iridiums back in, but I didnt) -Put everything back together, went for a drive. SAME SHIT. Really over it. Any suggestions on what I can check for? Please note, car was running fine prior to the plug change. Other info; -I can make full boost according to the gauge (0.7bar), unlike the instance where I had a loose cooler hose and the pressure would not reach the 0 mark. Does this rule out vacuum leak? -Have a power FC with controller. Any sensors checks to look out for? -Thinking, whether the ungrounded coils issue in the beginning, causing the engine to stall and relays flicking on n off could burn a fuse somewhere. And if yes, how would it cause this over fueling? -Could the above, somehow reset the power FC? -Have checked all connections nearby parts I had removed, and all seem connected. -I did remove the HKS BOV from the piping, thinking it would help get things off as I also have a strut brace in the way. Probably shouldn't have as there is a metal gasket. I did spray the throttle body cleaner around those joints, and no changes to idle. -Can the plugs get ruined in should a short amount of time? Idled for about 20mins all up, and drove for a 5mins all up. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

The idle problems have gone now, but as stated in the 02 sensor thread, the sensor should have been changed a long time ago. What should I be looking for after I unplug it? Because idle is back to normal now. Do you mean, if its rooted and I unplug the sensor nothing would be changed? Is it weird to you that the 02H is constantly ON and does not turn off?

Hi The problem seems to come and go when it feel like it. Its been over 12 months since the last time I've had the problem. After my previous post I took the car out...and bloody hell...the problem is gone again. I did take note of the sensor check screen though. It seems when its back to normal: 02-1 voltage starts at 3.88v then gradually drops to 0.00 after 10-15 minutes, but the 02H is constantly ON right from the very beginning. Unlike when during the idle problems existed; 02H is OFF until 02-1 gets to 0.00 then idle starts hunting. Yeah I've read on the forums that 02-1 should be 0.00-1.00. It might be completely shagged as i've never changed it. But then again when I got it tuned, it wasn;t lean and I don't seem to have that bad of fuel economy. 400-450km per tank. Next time I get the problem I'll try unplugging the 02 sensor and see how that goes. But with the problems coming and going so quickly its a little hard to justify the reset and idle adjustment... Can you tell me what the 02H is? I've read on your guide its the 02 Heater Sensor Setter, just not sure what it does. Perhaps I can try and check if there is a wiring fault or short somewhere. Thanks for your help paulr33.

Not sure if I did it correctly, but I went to the function select screen and turned off O2 Feedback. Nothing changes.....

Hi, I'm having a very bad idle at the moment, been happening for 2 days now. Normally revs would sit at 700rmp ish. Injector Duty at 1.0% IgnTm at 15 Now when the idle problems started, revs would start at 1500rmp, Injector Duty at 2.2% and Igntm would be at about 22. O2H is off, O2-1 is about 3.88V. Then after a mintue or two the O2-1 reading would gradually fall to 0.00V and the O2H check turns ON (black). I noticed when the 02-1 gets to 0, revs will then suddenly drop to about 1000rmp, Injector Duty to 0% and Igntm around 15-17. This will just continue to cycle, taking about 2 seconds for the full cycle. So its extremely annoying and embarrassing, esp in peak hour traffic. The only thing that I can do to stop the rev hunting is to apply throttle keeping the revs above 1500rpm. Also, after turning off the car, I go into the check sensor screen and I notice the O2-1 reading gradually increases until its back to the 3-4V range. If I start the engine again and let it idle, the idle is still high and the O2-1 reading begins to fall, hits 0.00v then idle hunt begins again. It has happened in the past but usually goes away within a day, so I've never had the chance to take it back to the tuner to have a look. I've only noticed these figures today after driving around in the Check sensor screen. In the past I've tried cleaning the ACC valve, air flow meter, check for vacuum leaks, check sensor plugs around the throttle body etc, but guess it didn't help. Has anyone had this problem or know what I should be checking next? Tried searching the forums but its either fuel economy related issues or I just didn't understand some of the info. Any further info/help/ideas would be greaaaatly appreciated. Thank you....

Thank-you Beer Baron!!

Hi all, Got new rotors and pads installed over the weekend. All went well, feels very nice even with the lower spec QFM pads. (the QFM-HPX i wanted was 3 weeks wait) I was wondering, when brakes are not applied in normal driving, are the pads meant to be constantly touching the surface of the rotor? I thought this was odd, but then also wondered that, if the pads weren't constantly resting against the rotor wouldn't they be loose inside the caliper? Also, if they were always touching...wouldn't that case excessive wear...or is there only minimal friction? Please help with the above questions, its doing my head in. Thanks!!

Hi, I'm after the factory door speaker grills for an R33. I need both sides but will take one if on offer and just hunt down the other. Will need the cloth that comes with it but can do without. Please contact me on [email protected] -Henry

Hi mate, I'm after the factory R33 BOV. I Don't want the cross pipe, just the BOV. How much for that posted to Sydney? Thanks

Barney2010 - Yea you were totally right. Got a new clutch and noise has gone!!! Thanks for everyones input. the mechanics forgot to swap over the spigot bush i bought tho...they didn't know I supplied one but apparently the spigot was ok so they didn't raise the issue. =/ got another problem now, the clutch is only just disengaging. its right to the floor. will have a look around the forum, will prolli start a new thread if i can't find it, but feel free to post your inputs if you wish. Clutch fluid has been bleed so much and pedal is still way down...if I release the pedal just even 3-5mm I start moving. Makes gear changes slower, something i don't think i'll ever get used to (before i could get out of gear half way down, and release clutch as I'm gearing up) A new slave cylinder has been put in, (the old one was leaking) A longer slave rod has been put in. The master cylinder rod has been adjusted as much as possible already. Mechanic say there is no more air in the system, I was waiting and waiting, took them about 2 hours to bleed it. They believe the flywheel has been machined down so much and is causing the really low clutch point. Washers were not installed under the pivot thing, and I'm not about to pay another load of labour for gearbox removal. Is there anything else you guys can think of?

I drove my car to the mechanics just then..just like last time, big grinding noise when clutching in..and found that it squealed a high pitch kind of noise as the clutch is gripping for 1st gear. Even just going down the street and approaching the first corner, each time i clutched in the noise had gotten fainter and fainter. until aobut 2 mins into the drive it completly disappeared. The noise surfaced just one more time when taking it into the mechanics workshop for the hoist. But this time, it was only when releasing the clutch pedal, taking off from 1st from a standstill. No noise what so ever on the way home. It seemed like its ok once gearbox/clutch has warmed up, will try it out again tomorrow morning. I didnt want them to drop the gearbox yet, wanted to wait until a new clutch arrives. So i got them to have a look around for anything else. They checked the gearbox fluid levels and it was fine, nothing else they could find. But they couldn't really check the amount of lube where the clutch fork goes as mentioned in others threads. (they reckon its abit tricky to check) Mechanics still believe its the throw-out bearing but could not really justify why the noise has dissappeared. They said if the noise comes back, I should bring it in and they will drop the box and have a look around. If it the throw-out bearing...is it normal for the noises to go away once its warmed up? If the noise does come back next time i check...I'll order a new clutch... but what bearings would i need? not sure what comes with a clutch kit. Is throw-out bearing another name for the Thrust bearing? or is the Spigot bearing?

Nissan Skyline R33 GTR V-Spec * White 95' model * 73,000km * 400R Front Bar * Nismo Exhuast * Trust Front Mount Intercooler * Apexi Power FC w/hand controller - tuned by CRD - 250awkw. * HKS Adjustable Suspension * OS Giken Twin Plate - Rebuilt less than 5,000km ago * Split Fire Coils * GReedy Boost controller * Blitz Boost gauge * Pivot Turbo Timer * Pivot Fuel Cut defender * Rego until 10/2007 * EXCELLENT Condition * CD, Full power options * First Aust. Owner * ATJ-65G * Prestons * $30,000 ono. This is a very well looked after and clean GTR V-Spec in Excellent condition. Loads of added extras. She's a truely amazing ride, never skipped a beat and would love to keep it but unfortunatly need to part our ways. Give us a call if your interested. It's an urgent sale so serious buyers only please. Robert 0433 408860

Ok cheers guys!! thanks for all your help, same to those who PM'd also. It'll most likely get done at a mechanic. Been back to them for quite sometime, hope they'll look after me this time as well. Hmm..just one thing i need to know, the noise is rather harsh... but I've been told by the mechanic its ok to drive over to them. What do you guys think? its ok to drive it?

Hi everyone, Needs some opinions about this problem i'm having. I've searched for grinding/squeaking noise when clutch pedal is pressed in and found some interesting topics on dry clutch fork but i don't think it's the same problem I'm trying to describe. Basically I was driving yesterday along the hume back to sydney for about 5 hours, gave her a 20min breather middle of the trip. My exit is very close to my home and everything was going fine until i geared down to 2nd for the final turn before the home stretch. As i went into 2nd, it sounded like I didn't engage the clutch correctly, not crunching gears sound...but more like...(not that i know how the transmissino works) but sounded as if the clutch cable couldn't get pulled right and was rubbbing against something spinning... Finally back on the driveway, waiting for garage door to open, clutch in...then just grinding, grinding, let go of clutch pedal...sounds go away. When i put the clutch in...it takes about 1 second to start grinding and stop immediately once foot is take off. Going into gears is fine, but when i try to the grinding gets effected... like it grids slightly slower and changes tone abit...and just sounds whatever is grinding its been tried to work just that little bit extra... Hope i've described it ok... Called mechanic after reading about the dry clutch forks and described the symptoms to them...they say from what it sounds its a bearing that spins together with the clutch is broken and they'll need to take off the box to inspect. First reaction was ..f*k...$$$$ not just for labour but it'll be stupid not to upgrade the clutch at the same time.. Mechanic reckons its safe to drive over to inspect..but to be honest its quite embarrasing plus not even sure if it'll damage it more. PLUS i have to fill up petrol too...arghhh...will have to ride the clutch to get into driveways...it'll be a nightmare of grinding/squealing Basically i'm asking 1. If anybody here had the problem I'm describing or knows whats going on? 2. It is better option to just tow the car there? 3. What kind of cost labour wise will i be looking at? ...and its a R33 gts-t thanks everyone.

used to? how did u fix it?

arh...so if mine never sees 80degrees either. should i be changing to 1.00, 1.00 like you? Funny tho, because when idle is completly stable, the ign timing is at 15, but set to 20 in the maps. Thats why i thought it retards by 5 if not reach optimum temp. ur guide is impressive paul, saves posting alot of repeating threads..thanks!!!! too bad its down at the moment hey? is the FAQ on another other server that we can peek at for the time being?