Keeper

Started the new engine up tonight, very nervous as it was the first time in two years the car had run, but all went reasonably well except an oil leek on one of the cooler lines, and the power steering belts and aircon belt were fowling due to being fitted at 2am so need to be replaced. Anyway we threw a timing light on the black loop at the back of the IGN loom and onto + and -, to set 20 deg we had the CAS in the fully clockwise (retard?) position almost. It has standard cams etc and I don't think it was this extreme before, this was at 900rpm and warm engine. Should we have unplugged the TPS or done anything else to ensure we set it correctly? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5n2K7f0BcmU

thanks

Oops, sorry I did read that thread, just somehow skimmed over that line...

I cant work out how to PM anymore, and if I use the ipad add it says I'm not allowed!

got the air out of the lines, getting between 40psi and 60psi now what ever i set the regulator at, but is it normal for the pressure to drop off slowly over 1-2 mins by 5-10psi?

stock reg gave me just under 40 psi, but it quickly dropped off after the pump stopped running, couldn't see any leaks in the car, pulled the pump, tried hooking the outlet directly to a hose to pump to a jerry can, it would pump for a few seconds, then die away, so I pulled the pump and the sock but that wasn't really bad either...

No idea what tHe reg is set at. I will wind the adjustor in until it hits the stop tonight and try again. I'm pretty sure the gauge is working as the system never stops priming like it used to with the factory setup, and yep A comes off the fuel pump outlet/filter line. I will pull the pump tonight and check it's not blocked in the tank also, has been a while since she ran. Thanks for the help guys, was very worried there I jphooked up on the wrong line!

That's them! Who makes them/ part number please

I have no idea what i'm doing wrong here, installed a fuel pressure gauge in the pipe where it is maked A, should I have done it on the return line where is it marked B? I can get pressure, but only 6psi - trying to sort this before I try start my engine next week

Hi guys I'm having problems idenfitying the plugs I used to use on my RB26 when it was running, they were a copper with a earth prong up each side and a V Groove electrode from memory, does this sound similar or familar to anyone?

lift the space saver in the boot and have a look in there, full of crap, rust and goo is usually a good sign they dont care or know about their car since that is a freebie fix almost

thanks guys

2 years now.

I put some compressed air into my two turbos while they were off, one spun really easily and kept spinning for a minute when the air was taken away, the other stopped spinning almost straight away. There was no sign of imbalance in the one that didn't spin as well, would it be natural to assume oil has gone gunky in the bearings and it should sort itself with a bit of fresh oil and the amount of air my car puts through the units?

Personally; Coilpacks Ignitor Module Air Flow Meters Wiring Looms Speed Sensor from behind dash O2 Sensors

Hi guys, Just rewiring a R33 fuse box into my R32GTR to help with the battery relocation, anyway before I go any further can someone who hasn't messed all their electrics up please confirm that in the engine relay box, there is a constant 12V supply to the fuses in there, basically that there is continuity between them and the +VE terminal on the battery. The R33 has this system, from my diagnosis it looks the same on the R32, but I have recently been dicking around with ALOT of wires and want to ensure that this was a design feature, not something I have inadvertently done. Thanks

nismo and tomei fuel pumps on ebay.com USA for good prices at the moment. thanks to uncle sam being depressed

water line behind block changed, with vacuum/boost lines GONE

for the nipple/barb. do you mean use the cast markings an inch or so under the T on Twin on this piece? I'm assuming I should pay someone and get it welded in from the looks.

Thanks man, I posted the last post then left the house realising how retarded a question it was, if I had connected the BOV return pipes to the plenum I would have a continual boost leak through that hose. I never realized the factory system vented back into the BOV pipes until you explained it then, the setup makes a lot more sense now than before. I will plumb the red hose in my diagram to the turbo compressor outlet and plug up the BOV return pipe. Will fix my diagram after and repost it to stop anyone using the wrong thing. Thanks for your help.

damn, just thought, do I need to balance the BOV return piping with the intake plenum, I assume thats why that connection runs to there from the plenum in the first place

On the "Twin Turbo" badged piping piece? Would a bolt in nipple be fine or should I get one welded on?

Damn that is true. I can see what I have done now, If I run a t-connector off the plenum then and use the same source as the in car controller sensor I should be right then. I don't really want to drill and fit a new nipple onto the turbo outlet piping.