Keeper

Thanks. The covers are a dark red from craved coating, iPhone camera sucks a lot tho The ends under the plenum don't even really need plugging since no air will be passing thru them with this setup

While the engine is out and almost ready to go back in I thought I would tidy up the boost controller install from before which had me sitting my SBC-R in the position of the factory one near the battery. I used to get some pretty spikey boost at times so I have relocated the SBC-R to where the air filters are, I have a bit more room here now my washer bottle is where the battery USED to be. Anyway the plan is to run the SBC-R off a boost pressure source on the turbo side of the engine, through the unit and back to the actuators without crossing the engine bay, saving roughly 2m of hose in the process. The controller unit in the car requires a pressure feed to it as well, so I was going to take this off the underside of the plenum and run it direct into the cabin to save routing of hoses. I am then left with the water lines for the turbo from behind the block, I no longer need three pipes running behind the block, so I was going to ditch the whole piece off and run a 10mm water hose from the bracket on the turbo side to the two connectors on the intake side of the block. This also alleviates the problem I have created with my read head oil drain. Have attached badly done diagram

Need engine bay relay box. Pm if you have.

Have you opened the cluster and checked the speed sensor is actually in there and not broken? Someone posted a couple good threads ages back about it all, you could try a search on my name and on speed sensor to see if you can find the post. The wiring loom usually isn't the problem here....

Chilton engineering in brissy did mine.

Couple good photos in bomber mans build.

Sorry to hijack. Does it matter what direction the knock sensors are bolted back on at? Also there is a threaded hole 1 inch forward of the rear knock sensor, and another in line with it but between approximate cylinders 3&4. Should these have anything in them???

Take engine out. Works a treat

Yeah I thought so from the other photos I just wanted to check it wasn't something I have missed. Weird to have a couple threaded holes with no purpose on the block eh

Anyone got any idea? circled in red...

Sounds silly but did you check your fuel pressure?

Perfect. Thanks very much guys.

Thx Do you have any close ups of the underside of the turbos? The workshop manual is a bit vague here.

Looking for photos of a stock turbo setup for a rb26 when the engine is out, especially of the mounting brackets please

Search it on scridb.com

BNR32 Head Bolt 11056-05U00 replaced by 11056-05U01 x14 washer for above 11058-V7200 x14

Cap Only is 49181-58S05 Full Assembly is 41670-05U00

may be wrong here, but a good warmup allows the parts of the car to expand and all fit the running tollerances etc. along with it allows the oil the get to the top of the engine and all the right places, starting an engine and hoofing it straight away is just going to do damage to your engine

R32 GTR Front Windscreen Centre Moulding / Retainer 72752-04U00 Approx $85 from Nissan (72811) R32 GTR Front Windscreen Moulding / Retainer Set 72750-04U10 Approx $250 from Nissan - Replaced by 72750-04U60 (72810)

Struggling to find a really good pod filter for the car, the ones on it were tired old units so no reuse there. 4.5 Inch Flange Diameter, not much wider than that, and not longer than 6 inches long if possible. There isn't a lot of choice in that size flange diameter, what have you guys done?

couldn't you use the calibration tables that come with them to work out what difference to run? but in short, yes you will

checked the subframe mounting bushings??? look for crap dripping out of the front ones, looks like jelly

Still looking for a bare subframe w/ good mounting bushings

Question: Why do the rules not apply too you? 7. No external links! - Do not post likes to items being sold on e-bay, or other forums. If you wish to start a thread advertising the same items on SAU, you must include all details and price in your thread. Asking people to refer to e-bay for more info is not acceptable. If you're too lazy to copy and paste the details on here, your thread will be deleted.

didnt want to spend that much, for a couple hundred I would look at just replacing the bushings, i only need the frame itself, none of the suspension arms