Keeper

a few of the boys at work mix it 50/50 and throw in in their motorbikes, saying that people usually take it from the slops tank, so make sure you drain for water content before adding to your tank. it does require a tune to run properly, i stay clear of it personally unless you can guarantee a sufficient supply to mix half half all the time and tune to suit.

Put aside $120 and YOU can fly a 2 seater trainer on the day. Be warned though, if you start flying yourself, everything else looses meaning...

Hey guys; On Sunday the 3rd of May the David Hack Classic Meet is going to be on at Toowoomba airport. I'm going to be working on the field on the day, but there should be a good selection of Vintage cars, trucks, military vehicle, some planes and more. Details and some great photos can be found on http://www.rotarydavidhack.org/classicmeet.php When Sunday, 3rd May, 2009 - from 9.00am - 3.00pm. Where The Aerotec Hangar, Spitfire St, Toowoomba Airport.

a multi wing aircraft just allows more lift to be produced in the same wingspan over a less efficient aerofoil multi element aerofoils should be able to produce more downforce for the same wing span. fatter aerofoils produce more lift at lower speeds but more drag at higher speeds, skinnier aerofoils produce more lift at higher velocities though, now im thinking the shit planes we fly use very fat wings and we cruise around 160kph, wouldnt a car aerofoil which probably see's most its use around 100-200kph need a fatter aerofoil too? most the D1 style wings are just a slightly curved flat piece of carbon of firbeglass

haven't read anything on car aerodynamics in detail, but im assuming the shape in the picture I posted, similar to a aircraft aerofoil would be most efficient, and i saw a couple guys once with maybe 20-30 degrees angle of attack on the rear wing of their car, in hindsight wouldn't this create a shit load of drag and not create any 'lift' downwards???

yeah the even coating is a bitch, i let them settle for a couple hours then threw them in a oven for a hour at 100c ended up repainting the flat spots, then coating the whole lot with darker red caliper paint, looks good, not great

the seal on the R32 comes out in one piece, just cover up and tape the breather holes and the underside. did you look in the paint code section? high temp paint has sweet fook all color options

go back to almost the gear box, then again from behind the rear axle

this is how the red crinkle came out, a bit light for my liking

was going to buy main bolts for the crank cradle off the boys at Chilton, he called a couple ppl and said at 400kw i wont need them, they just distort the shape of the bearings

Got the block back from the shop, had been cleaned but not painted, so wire brushed it down, tred using some high temp primer from the VHT range and had 2 cans of white explode on me, so resorted to red, with a aluminum colour finish, looks good i think block back from the shop taped and primered first coat of aluninium finished, two coats, tape off decked head smint

thanks craved, closer inspection after you message it does look very fixable... what is a good cleaner for the parts after they are painted to take residue, left over sand etc off???

gayness, hit the sand blaster tonight on some bits, but forgot to take the inside of the cam cover off and the mesh grill under the seperator plate is full of sand, do nissan sell new ones primer tomorrow, need to look for a red crinkle finish too

i dont know what ur planning, but my 4" system was best for getting me pulled over and defected

where are you located mate? im in toowoomba but go thru brissy and gold coast regularly, i also had some other software which i was using but need to get it back on the laptop since the format

Took the gearbox out of a R32 GTSt and tried opening it up to no avail, got sick of it so put it back in the car. Now reverse is a bit of a prick to engage and when in reverse it makes a clicking noise from the front of the car??? I was thinking it might be the selector fork lock pin which we managed to knock down a total of 2mm, or something to do with the dimond shaped cover plate on the side of the box, what is this for? Under the dimond plate (rounded ends two 10mm bolts hold it on) is some sort of assembly with a spring and hinge on it.

head off and throw a flow restrictor in the oil galley? that would be a reasonably easy job as I take it the motor is out or the head is off to fit the oil cooler? or dry sump, real dry sump, drain all the oil and run it without any, you always hear problems of ppl who run the oil low then the engine fails, but how many have you heard of people running the engine with NO oil and having a problem huh?

shouldnt the engine having to do less work to get the air/fuel in and the exhaust out negate that?

My head is ready for pickup from Gilberts I'm curious to my flow figures, paid $750 for the porting so I hope its good and I'm not just throwing my money around (the goal was less lag on the 2530s)

*SHIVERS* pulling the plenum off while motor in the car is a nightmare isn't it...

you like me will soon also know the meaning or true lag, make sure you got a electronic boost controller to help minimize it, maybe a oven in the back so you can make some baked goods waiting for them to spool up j/k but the boost controller will really make it between a kit that boosts after 6000rpm, and one that kicks in closer to 4500rpm

Bottom end off for balancing tomorrow, short of $$$ so shit is going slow. Looking at making the most of the 2530s so looks like 700cc injectors, AFMs, ECU and 044 need to be replaced

Item: RB26DETT R32 Rods and pistons Location: Gold Coast Contact: PM please Price: $150 Condition: Rods (good) Pistons (Fair) Info: Stock rods and bolts in good condition, stock pistons, some are scratched Out of a engine with 100,000kms Bottom end of rods will come with rods

pls post