HackerX

Ok, so I went to get a RWC for my Skyline, a Silver '99 R34 GTT 4 door auto, with the intention of selling, but since it failed a few things that I don't have the means/time to fix at the moment before the transport dept (potentially) spank me it goes up for sale, as is, to see if anybody is interested in picking the car up cheaper and doing the work themselves. Let's get the bad stuff out of the way: Cracked engine mount Excessive play in the rear steering rack (needs replacement?) Some more minor stuff like: some worn bushes in the rear pod filter needs securing internal cosmetics show the 210k kms the rear wiper appears to have gone on a holiday. The good additions: 3 inch turbo back exhaust (not some stainless cannon, so it actually sounds nice and not overly loud) Bilstein shocks and springs to match apexi pod filter Turbosmart boost tee alarm/immobiliser It has 4 almost new federal 595s and those 210k kms are all highway (on this end of japan at least; I'm selling because I've moved far closer to work and having the motorbike means I cry everytime I fill this up with fuel). First Australian owner. The car is currently on the road, driveable and movable (for at least a week). After then there's every chance I'll sit on it. The car is located East Brisbane. Since I'm often uncontactable via phone during daytime, it's best to either PM here or email me at [email protected] if you are interested. $9000

It isn't necessarily about stealing directly from your bank account. A bsb & acc number, your name and address and you've got everything you need to make up a fake bank statement which is a pretty common form of ID. Pair that up with a dodgy driver's licence, obtain credit from a source who doesn't check things properly -> shopping spree and then suddenly your credit rating is shot and you owe a lot of money on things you've never purchased while the thief is sporting a whole new set of bling. That's just a contrived example of id theft though, who knows what else people might come up with.

Another vote for Chris here. Just wait until you have the car. I think you're crazy for leaving a car you've already purchased at the dealer though. Check things haven't gone missing after the fact.

Yeah, you can pretty much guarantee that finance won't touch anything but a dealer car (if they're even willing to touch you at all). Banks don't hand out $15k+ for shits and giggles, so you can guarantee they'll probably want it secured against the car or at least be a unsecured loan against the car with them as the registered interest. (Which basically adds up to the bank or whatever owning your soul for as long as you're in possesion of the loan. Effectively, the bank will own the car, and you can't do anything that will effect their interest in the car (sell it, destroy it etc)) You can also guarantee that you'll be required to take out full comp insurance. Most insurance companies don't really differentiate between turbo or non-turbo, they only see "skyline", and you pay accordingly.

There was a silver S15 with a SAU sticker at the keperra paintball place today. I think you were with my group so perhaps I shot you a few times?

I've always bought my SS's from the place on gympie road in Aspley. (Tyre power? I think it is, can't remember the name of it). I would assume they can get the RS's in too with a few days notice. I've heard other places will get them in, but you just have to ask, they may not advertise it directly. Might be worth calling around a few places and just asking?

Sorry I didn't know what the beep was for. That does explain why this strange 380 was so eager to stick behind me!

So I got a price back today, and while I can't give that price out (staff discount and all) I can say it's within this price range. If you're an RACQ member it's probably cheaper. It will just take a day or two to sort out because the girls on the phones can't book it in via their system so it has to go to a manager to price up.

Ok, I should have thought more about this first. I forgot that RACQ bought themselves a windscreen repair/auto glass company just recently. So I'm going to try for a staff discount, just waiting on a quote back. Since the windscreen isn't a "standard" affair that is in the computers a manager needs to work stuff out. If that's reasonable I'll go with that, otherwise I'll give Instant Windscreens & Tinting a call. Made in China doesn't bother me. It's certainly not repairable, the crack runs from the bottom of the windscreen (initial chip is only about 2 inchs from the bottom) and is almost half way up now (and growing).

So I've started to develop a nice crack in my windscreen that over the past week has been slowly wandering it's way up to the point where I can no longer ignore it. So my question is, where on earth do I pick up a new windscreen for a 34? Is it something your normal windscreen guys can do or do I need to look around at wreckers?

Go to Dan. While he only advertised the 33GTST kit at the time, he happily sorted out the R34 GTT kit for me.

The one day my car is parked on the street is the day that they came down our street for photos. You'll have to take my word for it though.

I was under the impression it was 5psi. 5psi to get the low boost setting and 7psi for the highboost setting (in the stock boost controller).

QBE I think, which was what it was rego'd with before I bought it. It's CTP, pray that you never have need to use it. Otherwise, price wise there's f' all difference between them. If you're an RACQ member, then the $10 discount you get for going with RACQ (edit: The discount is on the membership, not the CTP, still it's $10) I'm pretty sure still makes it them cheapest. So yeah, $10 bucks, just as a idea of how little difference there is between them.

*Shrugs* heat isn't that big a deal though. It's possible it's a problem contact on the switch of the remote. But, given what you've described, it's far more likely to just be the battery. If the LED is lighting up, and nothing is happening, then the switch contacts aren't the issue and you can put pretty good money on it being the battery.

Exactly, not mention batteries are fickle creatures at the best of times. They're not some energy bucket that drains with perfect voltage from top to bottom, but a chemical reaction that gets more and more sporadic the lower in charge (less chemicals to react) they go. Not to mention the effect of heat and other things.

Mark is as much a salesman as the others I dealt with there. The car however, (and it seemed so for others) was good. I certainly can't fault it.

2000rpm AFAIK. Throttlebody/Accel cable seized?

It does sound like the battery. Which reminds me, I really need to change mine, only one of my fobs has a charged battery and I'd be stupid to let it run out.

There is a nice white R34 out here at RACQ (VI) this morning. I think the plates were BBRXXX? or something.

Got a wave from a Black R34 GTT today on the gateway around nudgee.

Take what's left of the stud down to repco (QWK32 has the right dimensions though) and get them to size up the correct one (Correct spline etc, they should have it listed in their book). They were about $4 each when I had to replace them. You can do it yourself, on my R34 (and I imagine earlier models are similar) you just have to rotate the hub (need to take the brake gear off obviously) until the stud lines up with a hole in the brake dust cover and then wack it out and stick the new one in. Bolting the wheel up pulls the stud into the spline completely.

Yeah thankfully. Old guy, was deaf enough that he probably shouldn't have been driving. "Didn't hear" the fact that I was going nuts on my horn. Oh, my car has it's carpark scars. Both corners of my rear bumper are slightly multicoloured from cars that reverse out too far into the car opposite (my car!)

Ouch, at least you knew who it was. It sucks when people don't have the guts to own up to their mistakes. My story: Driving down through a multilevel shopping centre carpark (yeah, you already know where this is going to end up). I'd stopped at a mini t intersection to let a couple of cars pass in front of me (There were cars behind me waiting to), when I see a car parked to my right's reversing lights come on. Said car then proceeded to reverse straight into my driver side door. The driver just never bothered to check behind them, I had been sitting there for long enough. Thankfully, a) I had plenty of witnesses and b) They'd wedge themselves into my drivers door so they couldn't drive off!

Exactly. Which is to say, in an auto with your foot flat it won't blow off because the throttle doesn't close. Take your foot of the throttle in either and it will happen. It's just that taking your foot off the throttle in a manual is typically associated with a gear change.