Adriano

I disagree, ill bet that once they are common, if it is possible to chip them, the local companies will be doing it.

The tune of the AFC would probably be advancing the timing anyway, usually you cant advance it anymore or it starts to ping. As you lean out the mixtures, the timing advances, usually you cant lean it out enough, because it advances too far and detonates

If its knocking at 20psi only during hot weather, common sense should tell you not to boot it or give it 20 psi when its hot, unless you want a rebuild i the near future

You need to hook up the vacuum to the original one also, or delete it from the system, what management has it got? I would be removing the malpassi, and fitting a recirc BOV

Fit the r33 inlet manifold and injectors, fit an r32 or 33 GTR exhaust cam, then you can use your r33 CAS, fit the r33 throttle body, the rest should bolt up

Mate, maybe you should figure out what it is your selling, a sway bar and strut brace are very different things

Dont see how you can get hurt, the spark will always jump to the head if you pull it too far, the only time i wouldnt recommend it is if you are running CDI. That and i ve never heard of anyone getting hurt by secondary voltages on a non CDI ignition system, just gives a but of a buzz.

I have a different way of checking the coils, unbolt the coils, but leave them plugged in, wiht the car idling, preferrably in a poorly lit area, lift each coil with pliers by the plug, and watchand listen to the spark, if you can lift them 2cm without cousing a missfire, and can hear the spark(which will be pretty loud)then the coil and its insulation is fine.

Dont waste your time with a nismo r34 diff, fit a gtr one along with the bigger axles

Curious to know what your thoughs on reducing the squish results in, i was under the impression the smaller the squish the better the swirl and reduced likelyhood of detonation, i would run 25 thou squish with second hand or new r33 rb26 crank(they are on here fairly often for $1000 new), use frogies then run a thinner h/g or deck the block/head to increase your comp to 8.8-9:1

To put an N! pump on an r32 motor properly is an engine out job, with machine work. Why are you getting rid of the EMS and fitting a PFC?

get a new tuner

Try doing a search, its been covered heaps of times, what motor do you have?

Clutch?

2nd pic and last pic big fitting are heater hoses. Green plastic one isnt a water connection, its the knock sensor

You could make an adapter, but it wont be a plug in affair.

El cheapo ones are about $15, and will do the job, just a bit fiddly to use.

I think most "old school" mechs would smell a rat when they see the 38mm gap in the timing cover, that and the fact the bonnet usually has to be trimmed to make the motor fit. I would guess most of the 25/30's and 26/30's arent engineered. In nsw if you increase power by 20% you are meant to get it engineered. A $500 engineering certificate for a $22 bleed valve LOL

Are the rods stock rb26 ones? I probablt wouldnt go chasing heaps more power and risking the motor if they are.

Is the pipe with the blue arrow blocked properly, and try blocking the green pipe, the BOV's will probably be getting sucked open at idle causing a leak. I would try to get the crossover pipe and recirclate the bov's as theywere intended.

I personally wouldnt worry, 93 db is exactly twice the sound pressure of 90db. 90 db is really quiet, to got my Z32TT to 90 db i had to bolt in restrictors and heaps of steel wool, it sounded like a sewing machine, and i didnt boost it as it felt terriable, just wait for the letter, and hopefully it never will. PS the sound test is done not under load, thats how all the "factory" V8's and the like pass, hold them at a steady 3000rpm and their quiet(thats where the test is done), give them a stab, and they bark.

Change gears earlier LOL, seriously its not making power up there anyway, and its not going to do teh conrods much good. Its probably got a remapped ecu, have a look at the ecu and see if its got any stickers on it.

I just hope either way you dont forget the crank collar.

I just dont boost it up for about the last km of the drive, then let it idle while i get out of the car, turn it off last, about 15-20 secs. If youve been giving it heaps, then its different of course.

Although the actual comp ratio may be the same , the combustion chamber degign is completely different, which seems to be the only reason the neo's seem to hit a detonation threashold earlier than the r33 rb25's