Adriano

Depending on what features you want, thats about right, is that with the knock control board and the ignition expander?

Excellent work mate, i would just be a bit weary abou that throttle cable, from my experience they have to line up well to work properly.

Just bear in mind that many c-type spring compressors wont fit a rb-- head, as they are designed for old school heads. See if you can use one down at the local head shop(or get them to do it), there are pneumatic ones that will change all 24 in about 15mins.

Goos luck fitting heavier springs doing it that way, if you da a search, there is a thread on doing the valve stem seals in the car, and there is a diagram of the tool you can make to do it.

why? You wont be able to do this at home unless you have a die grinder, an oxy set and a tig welder

interesting how you say the dwell settings drop off after 4000 rpm coz it seems to be after 4000 to bout 5000ish mine seems to be struggling Thats for the stock ecu, setup for the stock turbo, i would find a dyno shop with datalogit, and just get them to change the dwell settings, if you want a bit more grunt there, no need to put it on the dyno to do it, shouldnt cost much.

Curious cubes, where is peak torque?

I think the for sale section would be a good place to start, feel free to continue to ignore all the advice and waste your money

Yep, and the colder heat range plugs should reduce the knock a bit. Upon researching the stock settings for dwell , the recharge time of the coils is rpm dependent, and follows the torque curve, i guess nissan realised the coils would overheat if given a set dwell, so they increase it around 4000rpm, and it drops off steadily both sides of this.

Thats only if you use the rb30 conrods, it may be possible with the 26 rods, but you may need shorter ones again.

There is a guy on here who has put an rb30 crank into an rb26 block, though he worked at an engine machine shop, and required custom pistons and conrods. Rb30 blocks are about $100 from any wrecker.

If you get a PFC, youll need to keep the resister pack, i would scrap the lot and get a remap, heaps cheaper, and great results, see CEF11E or Dr.Drift

I believe that most(if not all) aftermarket ecu's would be able to work with the auto computer, if there is an auxillery input, hook it up to the auto computer and set it up so the ignition timing is retarded when the ecuy receives the signal. If there isnt an aux input, you can hook the auto output to a transistor and ground the coolant temp sensor. Seeing a coolant temp of whatever that results in, set that load point to retard the timing, there is a section in the Autronic manual that shows how to do it, i just dont think you could do it with a PFC, maybe with datalogit

Is there anything else done to the car before we try to diagnose the problem? On the sens/sw screen there is an idle switch, make sure it goes on and off when you crack the throttle

I would pull it apart and have a look inside, its probably siezed or full of junk.

I would try putting consult on it to monitor the sensors and check for trouble codes

Removing the crush ring will definately affect the sealing of the gasket, try gcg for a new gasket, as i believe there is a range of different port sizes for this bolt pattern, hopefully there will be something fit work for you

No, these were new billets, not regrinds

And its a friggin TAXI

Fitted them ot heaps of cars, they work a treat, a bit exxy though

Congrats albert, thats a good result from the mods, however it isnt run in shoot 6F(it really should be Shoot 4F), so there is a difference in the ramp rate and the power reading, an NA mx5 that i tuned showed over 15rwkw between shoot4 and shoot 4F, and that only made 135rwkw

When i was at Meadowbank Tafe a few years back doing panelforming at night, there was a night mig/tig course.

I would fit a front pipe and highflow cat, then save up and get some better turbos, or at least have steel wheels put in yours, trying to get 250rwkw out of stock 15y.o. turbos is a recipe for disaster. When you fit the turbos fit some dump pipes at the same time

Congrats on reading the full thread and not asking 100 dumb questions. Youll need to dek the block to use the rb25 pistons, but thats no big deal. I would look ino sppending a little more on the camshafts, and getting a pair made, Tighe Engineering in queensland are doing a pair for me $880 for whatever grind i want, just that the poncams wont give you the full benefit, as your NA You could easy go to 280-290 deg without dramas. May be well worth trying something like the ebay greddy copy manifolds, with a Q45 throttle body, as you need to get as much air in as possible. The rest of it looks great, and if you need to upgrade the injectors later on, det injectors willl be easy to source(i dont know if they are bigger though)

Dont think youll find many dyno shops thst will fit a SAFC for $40, id say fit and tune for $400 would be average.