Adriano

Just rotote the engine clockwise until you get to the last mark on the harmonic balancer, thats TDC, now the marks(slots) on the camwheels should line with the corresponding slot on the camwheel backing plate. Dont worry if they dont exactly, as long as its within about 2mm its OK

Come on paul, you know better then that, the torque and power graphs always have to follow each other, regardless of the problem.

D-jetro isnt available for the rb25, but you can buy a 26 one and use The Mafia's adapter

Im about to do this on saturday. A dyno is the best way to run it in, as you can hold it under moderate load and varying revs as much as you want, whilst monitoring temps and any other fresh start problems like oil/coolant leaks.

I think the standard bottom end will be the limiting factor, i wouldnt be revving it past 8500

Just wondering if the flange has been milled? And has the water neck been refitted?

Still wont have problems, just pull them out and measure the holes.

There is a good chance you will be able to hook up the rb20 idle control motor to bypass the 6 throttle bodies, however in the long run it may be cheaper to use a Q45 throttle with aftermarket plenum if you dont already have the manifold.

2nd hand power fC, best BFYB

Yep. endfloat should be 3-4 thou (.075-.1mm)

Yep, all will be fine, just dont know how you are going ot hook up the idle control, you could always run a single throttle on the rb26 head.

ummm $400 for 2nd hand or $600 new splitfires. Anything over 12 psi on an r33 gtst turbo can blow it up.

My new motor should make 450rwkw @ 1.6 bar with a smaller turbo, to run a 9 you will need a turbo that big, but will need more than 500rwhp. There have been plentyof vl turbos running 9's with jatco 4spds

Doesnt matter which happened first, they should fix them both. As long as you havnt had it on a race track they have to cover it. You arent meant to check your coolan t every time you drive it in case it had run out.

The mechanic is correct in saying the gsaket doesnt usually blow unless it has been driven whilst overheating, but thats not your pronlem, tell them your going to the department of fair trading if they dont cover it. They should have fixed he overheating problem in the first plae.

If your aiming for 500rwhp, i would recommend downsizing a lot of your components, as they will be causing a lot more lag than is necessary for that power, with 272deg 10.2mm cams and a good port job you should see close to 700rwhp with 25psi. Im basing these power figures on a manual though, not allowing for the loss of power through the convertor.

It doesnt make any difference if the hex bit twists, the same torque is still transferres to the fastener. it only makes a difference if you are using an angle gauge, even then you can easily account for it.

Anyone else care to comment on this?

PFC clutch and camgears, then turbos(just dont turn the boost up at all on the stockers)

The guy who bought the kit with the 1.32 ex binned the turbo and fitted a gt35r, the car has been running with the cheap arse manifold and wastegate for 2 years now without cracking the manifold, makes 309rwkw @16psi, the key is to brace the exhaust so the manifold doesnt take the weight

All these are fine to run on the standard ecu for a while to run motor in etc

A guy on the for sale section recons that "tokage racing imports QLD" sells them

I didnt think they had been made for years

1. .82 gt3582r 2. 1.2 Greddy one will be more then adequate, just make sure the comp ratio doesnt go too low, and the squish doesnt end up too big. 3. The cams you have wont limit you getting the power, unless you really feel the need to spend more money (and have some left over) 4. If your building a serious car, dont waste your time, get an external pump and never have to worry about it breaking 5. Upgrading the sump will be the cheapest part of building this, why skimp there 6. 2.5 -3"will be fine 7. Hard abuse, probably not long, to handle this power with hard abuse, a holinger is the only thing up to the task, abuse wont be necessary though. 8. Once again, they are cheap enough, the stockers arent studs, they are bolts, by the time you buy new bolts your 1/3rd way to the upgrade 9. 555's with the sard reg will come close depending on what pressure you run, although you will definately need a better pump. 10. There is a formula on here to figure out the optimal size, need to search 11. I would certainly get the head cleaned up, best $1000 spent on the motor. 12. I think th z32 may max out, but not sure

You could remove all the centre bearings, sit it on the end two bearing halves and check the runout on the centre journal to see if there is any bend in the crank.