Adriano

Agreed, 30 deg, no way, think at full throttle how much air flows through the piping, you would have to heat all that air up by 30 deg, i would say 5-10 max

even at .003 it wont have noise issues, thats what id recommend, just to be safe

Or cracked head, headgasket or cracked block

99% its one of three problems, cracked piston(s), broken ring(s), or hopefully incorrect plumbing on busted PCV, allowing boost into the crankcase(ie breather hooked up to intercooler piping)

I believe that the standard computer can be reprogrammed to run maps also. A few things that i can see being a drama are: (1) The amount of fuel trim that the air temp sensor has in its range, this is essential in getting right, as the change in air density with temp has a monumental effect on AFR's, (2) although not an outright problem on its own, the ecu has inbuilt scaling which compliments the non linear voltage curve of the AFM, ie:going from 4.0v to 4.4v almos doubles the amount of airflow, and hence fuel im not sure if this can be eliminated totally. I dont know if you would need to make a voltage regulator, as there is already a 5v power supply to the AFM.

$1050, or they go on ebay

Sounds like compressor surge

Most of the mods sound good, however i would get oversize valves to go with the headwork, and bigger cams. no need for 1000cc injectors, just 720's or 800's.I would only use a thicker headgasket if it is necessary to achieve the correct squish/compression. Have you considered putting an rb30 bottom end in, as it will probably end up cheaper(as you can sell your existing bottom end for more than an rb30 bottom end will cost), and it will reduce the lag cosiderably making it a heaps nicer drive.

The advantage of the z32 over the rb20 one is the ability to control the VCT

As plenty of people on here have found out, a well tuned PFC(or any other stand alone) can get heaps better fuel economy than the stocker.

Either the z32 or rb20 computer is fine, but i would get nistune sooner rather than later, it will be invaluable to making the most out of it.

i wouldnt be surprised if it is a 20b turbo, they arent rare scond hand as everyone rips them off

Sounds like a mazda turbo

I would recommend going for the lower part of your power hopes if you dont plan on doing a rebuild in the near future

Put a tailshaft in it, it will fix the problem

GTR cams are basically the same except for the grind and the cas drive on the exhaust cam, and no VCT provision

I would say the pulley is wrong

If you want to sell it at a good price, PM me...interested.

Im sending off a cranks to get crtogenic'd. Does anyone think getting the oil pump gears(N1)done would be any advantage?(itl cost about $40)

My experience was with a KKR280, firstly had to replace a faulty exhousing, then had to mod it extensively to stop it overboosting, not much fun-pulled the turbo off 3 times on the dyno.

Price drop $1100 ono

Just need to group the leads together, so the coils fire 1&6, 5&2, 3&4. Now that i think about it the igniter should be fine, as the bigger coils will have higher internal resistance, therefore draw less current, althouhg they would ideally want to draw it for longer(increase dwell) I cant really see the heat being a problem if you mount them on the firewall, as long as it isnt above the turbo, and as for leads being a problem, Top fuelers run leads, as long as they are good leads and mounted well there wont be a problem there. If you increase the dwell with a remap it would give a great result, but without increasing the dwell, i believe it will be a waste of time to some degree, as the spark energy in theory will be less than the stock setup in good order.

^^^^^^^Agreed, wastegate flow is terriable, definately needs work

Bellmouth dump wont help, but cleaning up the exhaust flow through the wastegate flap works really well on some turbos

How much is the cheapest HKS upgrade?