Adriano

In vic, nistune, then rb25 AFM's when you want to upgrade the turbos further.

If you are pulling the motor out, why dont you take the manifold off then?

Bloody gtst's, you have it easy

You have to wonder why the hell did nissan aus change a sensor whick works to another sensor which works just to be difficult?

Yeah, im one of them, the alloy is about 0.6mm, i doubt it could be welded without the bonnet being distorted form the heat. By the time you bog up a distorted alloy bonnet, might as well mould a fiberglass bulge on.

Z32 bonnets are aluminium, god luck. I had a z32, and cant see the point, a vg30dett is probably the nicest of the nissan motors with that power to drive, mine made a nice torquey 250rwkw with only exhaust, chip and front mount(and 14psi) Drove like that for 2 years

No offense intended but why, we were burning chips 10 years ago, nistune is so cheap, the emulator will cost more, and the old school tuning stuff is slow and clunky

Tow car home, order head from nissan, will end up cheaper than stuffing around fittingthe worng head. What are they charging you per day out of interest.

But what he is saying the original girdle caused the crank to lock, when he fitted the wrong girdle it was fine.

Air is getting in there somehow, 2min and a set of long nose pliars, squeeze the hoses to the plenum. Could be a brake booster, clutch booster, pcv, charcoal canister, or one of the two idle control motors.

Are these 5x114.3, or 5 x 100?

Is the ecu temp reading closely, what water temp compensation is it running?

Pretty sure the Avo housing is worth more than a stock garrett housing.

Better option would be to buy a gtr and fit a Stagea gearbox

Theres a guy on ebay who sell alloy plate offcuts.(and brass,copper etc)He trades as offcuts-galore

Sorry your right, what i meant to say was fill the sump with e10(about 15litres should do) and do a rev limit burnout unitl the tyres burst(make sure they are new ones)

Yeah, should be 235/40 on the front

Its really not good, however as long as you can stop it from continuing to rub it will probably be alright, obvoiusly if it continues to rub it wont last long at all.

Not really, he wants one that locates the wheel to the spacer, a piece of 15mm plate and a bit of time on the lathe is the only way it will happen.

As you said its the best of many you have looked at, you arent buying a new car. Wire brush, rust convertor, then get a spray can of fish oil and give it a going over. Its a $65,000 car for $18,000. Otherwise dont get a mitsubishi, they are renown for this problem from this era.

DO you honestly think you are the only mechanic on the forum, get off your high horse. Whenever i rebuild a diesel, i run kero through it for 15 min 1500rpm free rev, obviously you dont rebuild diesels otherwise you would do the same. To the OP i would drain the oil, and refill with 50%cheap oil, 50%kero and run it for a few min then drain it while it is hot. If you are worried about the bores being rusty, then you are up for a rebuild anyway, so might as well give it a go..

But saying that a stock rb30 is worth $50, i Dont see that it would be a bad thing, just dont expect it to pull to 8k, but it should make a nice torquey(compared to the rb26)250rwkw.

Yes you are right, however its the market value-threashold, hence 120,000-57,000

AFAIK All evos after 3 have factory antilag except ADM's, not sure which ones are turned on, but RS's Tommy Makinens and Rallyarts have it on.

Either the head isnt bolted down as yu suspect, the cam timing is wrong, or the valves arent sealing. I would start with looking at the cam timing on the way to putting a second set of washers on the head bolts.