Adriano

A 26/30 will be less laggy then any other rb, if you could buy a "new" rb30e and put a "new" rb25 head on it, and make 160-200rwkw, there is no reason it wouldnt last 300,000 if the tune was ok. Once you want big power, it changes, but only if you start stressing things beyond their capabilities, ther are a couple of 300rwkw rb30det's on here that have lasted longer than 60,000 and showing no signs of distress. If you have 400rwkw and thrash it every day, then it will last as long as an rb25 with the same power.

Can be set with it on or off, just need to set it to a different value. I prefer to set with it off, dont even need the engine running, just power up the fuel pump and set.

By the time you get pistons, rods, crank collar, N1 pump, ported head, valve springs, rings and bearings id say about 6-7k assembled, then cams on top.

Cam gears are cheap, theres a group buy on them at the moment. Does the exhaust go from the turbo's, if not i would get dump pipes/front pipes, K&N air filter insert boost controler/bleed valve and cam gears before a PFC.

If the belt is too stron/thick to wrap around the crank pulley like the stock one, i wouldnt be using it. Sounds like oits being used outside its design boundaries and could likely fatigue. Unfortunately it may last just long enough until its first drive. Going by your other thread, id hate to see its first 8500rpm be a messy one, and bust those nice custom pistons.

Or beer baron has some poncams that would work really well

Too big, you will lose idle quality, and low down cylinder filling. Not a really good cam design, as for the same result, you would run more lift and less duration. This is a compromise so the head doesnt have to be modified. I would recommend 264's in and ex, or maybe a 272ex, you will probably only gain 30rwkw, as the turbos will hold you back

Agreed " Any pistons for RB25 will fit the NEO" yes but they will give a much different C.R. to a non NEO rb25

Does it have the knock control option

You just put it into the IC piping, when you mod it to suit the throttle body.

or set the pressure to the factory specs, i think about 42 psi with the vacuum hose off

Either stuffed starter motor, battery lead loose on starter motor, or siezed/hydraulicd motor

Sounds like battery or batt leads

Set the inj trim to .80, and set the fuel pressure to standard, or put the standard FPR back on, how much power are you expecting? The stock FPR is good for 350rwkw, so are the injectors. Should start up, run and be drivable from the word go

Do a search, there was a thread on it not long ago. IMO just take it to a radiator place and get them to give it a fine coat of paint on the front only $5

Everyone who drives these cars assumes they are still working the same, the factory doesnt tune the management to allow for things wearing out. Injectors and AFM tend to fail rather than lose performance, the only exception is injectors which if never cleaned can become dirty(although with modern fuels it doesnt tend to be a problem, there are plenty of cars with 300000k's with the original injectors.

Not to be rude, but the machinest shouldn't need any paperwork, what spec is he after? You will have to bore it to suit the pistons, which would have to be special orders, as i doubt you could deck the rb26 head to achieve that sort of comp, youll need pistons with big crowns. If the rb30 rottom end is standard(not rebuilt) i wouldn't go much past 6500, especially if it doesn't have a crank collar.

I believe you could, but why would you when you have active knock control

No it wont, although it wont ping on the low octane map even running on canola oil

Are you still running standard cams and valve springs? Maybe the lifters are pumping up. As said, why dont you lean it out if its going rich, thats what tuning is.

You could try to explain the problem to them with a link to the tomei website, however n@#$%n are renown for being difficult when this happens

Yep, sure. If your running a stock AFM and injectors, then the cells for load are entered as the hex value of the afr you want to run, but would definately agree about the wide band. Knock can be monitored by consult.

Are both cams wrong, or only the ex one?

Can the rb20 ecu run the rb25? Sure can, just use the rb20 fuel, ignition and sensors(although these can be upgraded versions of course)

IMO messing around with belts too much is troublesome, there are different tooth profiles. Plenty of people have been running standard belts with big cams/valve springs for a long time without dramas. All i do is change it every 50,000 for peace of mind. If the belt isnt right for the application, narrowing it could cause it to fray and break