Adriano

"ok that could work, but it won't be 100% accurate. I mean, it is too hard to calculate the difference between the blu-tac before and after (because it's gonna shrink when it is dry). then, to calculate how far the pistons & rods might expand with heat!" This is a very common way of checking piston to head and piston to valve clearance, works perfectly. I would get the head cc'd so you can balance the cylinder comp ratios and get an exact reading for the comp ratio's. If the head has been decked before, it doesnt effect the piston to head clearance, and the reason the car was a bit lazy was probably due to the 1.2mm head gasket. I would avoid putting a 1.2mm gasket on, as it is a band=aid solution to reduce the comp ratio, which doesnt really work at reducing detonation.

The only reason thet an autronic would be known for causing missfiring is because people dont hook up the ignition outputs correctly(they are a pain in the rse)Ive only once heard of an autronic causing a blown engine, and i used to fit them for a few years. The blown engine was mine, and i had a $50 autronic that was out of a burnt car, which worked perfectly except it had a damaged internal socket which caused it to go spaco at 4000rpm

"this car is a weekend car so drivability is not a big deal." Wow, guess you havent driven a car with big holes and flatspots like multithrottle MAP sensor cars tend to have, Another option is to put an AFM guts into the stainless intake and hook that up to the autronic, then you can run one afm and its hidden.

6 throttles and good drivability, why not a d-jetro PFC, or even better get an AFM, are you worried about losing HP?

Mate i think you should have a good read of pauls FAQ's before something gets damaged Are the map sensors hooked up after the throttles(right near the head)

Yep, these look the goods, i didnt know they were finished, and will now get one for my gtr(maybe we can do a deal for a few)

There is an authorised autronic tuner/distributor in WA, just look on the autronic website/forum. For 99.9% cars, autronic is as good if not better than motec when wanting to run TPS/map sensing. PS what autronic are you running?

I would say its gone into clear flood mode, if you keep cranking, it cuts the fuel? Have you got the two sensors hooked up and plumbed properly. What injectors are you running? Are the AFM settings set to d-jetro?

Umm, dont you have to go to nissan to get it?Why dont you just ask them.

Mate there is nothing game about it, you will need an eprom burner, and datascan. A consult also helps. If you can get a wideband a/f meter it also helps, but as long as your car doesnt have any problems(such as fuel pump) then its not absolutely necessary. My first remap was on my Z32 tt. The A/F ratios are calculated in the numbers you enter into the appropriate rom addresses. We entered 12:1 afr for the full power load cells, and took it to a dyno day- result exactly 12:1 afr under load. There are a few programs out there, and many of them are freeware.

I thought they were all the same. I use the rb30 ones, but its a good idea to get genuine ones, as they are double row bearings instead of single row. You may want to use two tensioners instead of an idler/tensioner, as it will give you more tension adjustment(and save some $$$)]

I also know andy-great bloke. I used to fit adaptronics for a living, and before that autronics. No way an adptronic is even close, but they are an excellent ecu fro 99% cars, and would happily recommend them over many others, and they offer excellent bang for your buck.

Yep, dealt with him three times without drama

The machine shop that did my rb30 told me about 10 times that they are rubbish compared to the other rb's. I just ignored him, as i wasnt going to give up my project based on his experience of metallurgy. He said the quality of the material was inferiour.

Always do, and usually blend the wastegate flow into the main entry if needed

Not really worth it then, more lag with about the same power potential

Yep, rb30 bloocks arent as good as the twincammers, though there are plpenty of them making 1000hp without dramas. I dont think nissan did the casting, probably done locally by holden

I agree with nismoid, buy a good one with heaps of fruit, or you can easy run out of money

I thought that it would have moved more than one cell down, they usually idle at cell 2-3, was it at operating temp when you checked the mixtures?Hill starts should still access the same points, except it will probably take a few more revs

Autronic SM4 has individual cylinder ignition trim linked to the knock sensor circuit, very fancy it only retards the pinging cylinders, and i believe it can also be set to feliver a little more fuel to that cylinder as well

Interesting, but unburnt fuel shows up as lean on an A/F meter. All i can think of is the high load/low rpm cells must be tuned rich before hand(not the rich really, as at 1000rpm the difference in ms between 14:1 and 10:1 is bugger all)These cells are probably rich to assist the accel pump "circuit" im helping the car during hill starts and low rpm takeoffs where you would normally access these cells. Now with the cams you are accessing these cells at idle. Were they different cells than it used to idle at? These can be tricky to tune, as you cant hold these cells on the dyno(you should here a car at 1200 rpm on the dyno, sounds like the car is going to fall apart.

A PFC wont necessarily fix the problem, as its more to do with the AFM than the ECU. If you have to wind the spring pressure up, then it defeats the point of having an atmo BOV, why not just block it off and stick a pod on it and enjoy the backspin noise, as that what most people are after, although you will still have the stalling issues

Whats the budget? Start with full exhaust, then intercooler and Fuel adjuster, then highflow turbo, fuel pump and clutch. Can you leave the swearing for CALAIS TURBO.com

How much for the upper front control arms? To sydney, PM thanks

Maybe you should take the turbo off to stop an accident