Adriano

Just upgrade you AFM and injectors now before getting a remap, tell the tuner what your intended mods are and they can allow for them in the tune. A remap is nothing like an aftermarket computer, and can allow for further mods without losing drivability in the meantime, then when its all finished just get the dynoing done

Yep, theres only one type, bit overkill though

That setup is what im going to run on my 450RWKW gtr, so the sizes could be turned down for an rb25

Just measure the stroke without pulling the motor down, measure form the deck to the crown at BDC

Slipping clutch, if the revs go up quickly

Same kit as mine, nice bit of work for old school. Manifold wont fit 20 or 25 if its a 26 kit

Gee that didnt work, if you want to see what i mean, just click on reply to the post, and itll make sense

To try and reduce the reversion in the AFM, you could build an anti reversion cone into the intake pipe. Im going to do this on my gtr with these pipe sizes ____________ ____________ / : : \_______ ____/ : : : : Turbo 4inch 3.25in : 5inch : 4inch Air filter : : ____ : : ____________\ : : _______ \__:________:_/ The AFM is in the 5 inch bit, so i helps that im running a 5in AFM The : is mesh(like the standard stuff except thicker)

Let me guess, the CAS has at some point been running without the cam pulley cover? Common cause for CAS failure.

Its basically a small box with 6 hoses going to each of the runners, and then some others to go to the map sensor, FPR, boost gauge etc. It is designed to dampen out the intake pulses to prevent "confusing" the map sensor.

The haltech wont like the 6 throttles, unless you make up a little vacuum plenum

You can do it that way, but that doesnt allow for differences between the parts you are removing and the ones you are fitting eg:new rods may be slightly shorter or longer, block may need to be decked, pistons may have slightly different pin heights(very common)

Just use all the rb20 sensors, and it should fit up fine, the only problem i can see is the TPS depending on what you are going to use for an inlet manifold

Should be fine for a while, you should be able to add a bit of timing, although it will lean it out a bit due to the improved pumping efficiency. Just dont go giving it too much stick

1- what is the std CR for RB26? 2- what is the std piston to head clearance? and what is the minimum i should stick with? 3- can i go with Tomei (1.0 mm) MHG (after refacing the head) ? 4- would it cause a problem with Cam setting? (thinking of Tomei 264) 8.5:1, but can hapily bump it up to 9:1 I wouldnt go below 30thou "squish" you will need to measure it up after a dummy assembly No, but i would recommend adjustable cam wheels to make the most of the mods

AFM, CAS or igniter in that order, or poss fuel pump

300rwkw can be made out of a .63 gt35r, i would go a .86 gt35r instead of the 35/40

Lockbar sold to mee, thanks

No, r34 Gtt use top feed injectors, although they are the same size at 370cc, so it would not be an upgrade

Thanks for that, to be perfectly honest i dont know how many K's they have on them, but they are spotless, no signs of road grime/stone chips at all, definately no leaks, not even witness marks where the springs sit against the strut.

PM sent

Mate even stock they run flthy rich, only other thing you could look at is Coolant temp

I would thoroughly flush the cooling system with a flushing agent, and fill it with water. Drive it for a week and see what happens. Did you just buy the car, or do you have some other reason for suspecting head/gasket. Has it overheated, or making big power? RB heads are pretty tough, and dont crack often.(except RB30)

Oh dear, lag and no power what a combo, what a waste of a good rb26