Adriano

Measure the battery voltage 10 mins after you get home after a drive, then a few days later brfore you go to drive it, battery voltage should be almost the same, if not try it again with all the fuses pulled out and see if the problem disappears, sound like something is draining the battery, and you may also need your starter reco'd. as when the brushes wear, they draw heaps more current on startup, if its got over 150,000, its probably due to have the starter/alternator freashened anyway, as they are over 10 yrs old now.

Then tell amy to man up

I would relocate your resevoir to outside the engine bay. Have you tested the "fridge" to see how cold the water can get, and more importantly how fast it cools a litre or 2 of water?

They can be disconmected, however unless your doing track work, they are a good idea, not only do they cool the oil, they also heat the oil up much faster on startup.Im going to run the standard heat erxchanger after my oil cooler which has a thermostat to speed up oil warmup and the cool oil coming from the cooler should take some heat from the water and ensure the oil isnt overcooled.

^^^agreed, possibly, although they usually come right apart. I doubt it is the cat, as it would limit top end power heaps, ie it would feel like there is no boost. Have you checked the timing? Fuel filter?

How thick is the original head gasket?

I would try checking trouble codes, and clean the airflow meters

Igniter sold

More than likely the cas, or a wiring issue, the igniter has 6 individual circuits inside so its unlikely they would all fail.

There WAS an l-jetro pro, but its not made anymore, and the only advantage i believe was a zero kph rev limit for launch control. Just get a d-jetro and follow the instructions or an l-jetro and upgrade the AFM's when you need to (over 350 AWKW)

Pics of bonnet

Please do a search, this has been answered 100's of times, a slide is almost as goos as a GCG, as it isn't ball bearing, however it is about $600 cheaper, and maybe 5kw less

Gunmetal grey GTR rear view mirrirs also available $40 ea

Where u at?

You dont need to use trial and error, just look where the part has broken off in the cam and line that up with the hole for the half moon drive in the sensor, done it heaps of times.

I would recommend dummy assembling the bottom end, and measureing the piston deck height, and cc the combustion chambers, its the only way to get accurate results. Then you can order the appropriate headgasket to suit your compression/squish.

[attachm nt=93629:20070418_0003.JPG]Photos of HKS filters with new unifilter inserts

PM sent

Hi, ive got a gunmetal gtr bonnet, immaculate $450 splitfire coils to suit R32/33 gtr,R32 gts-t and R33 S1 gts-t almost new $500-sold Hks pod filters to suit R32/33 GTR with AFM adapter/elbows and new unifilter inserts $150 Igniter suit GTR $75, low km-sold All in hornsby/ Sydney, can post but would prefer not to post bonnet unless needed, will post pics up if needed GTR mirrirs-gunmetal $40 ea

2nd that

Definately r&r, need a chip or new management

Do they come with the sensors?

What size did you end up getting? if you mount it as low as practical, and as far back, it should fit centered. There is no question of the cooling ability, the real test of this style would be a pressure drop test, look forard to results.

Unique used to sell them, there was one for sale on the forum a few weeks ago

You could drill and tap them and fit a speedflow adapter, drill them out to at least 1/2in bsp"(prefferably bigger)