Adriano

They arer the same part as the cheap Greddy replicas on ebay for $200. There is another thread on this, poor casting quality untested performance gain. IMO people making enough power to need an upgraded inlet manifold(over 300rwkw) have spent enough money that most wouldnt skimp on this, they will mostly be fitted to cars that dont get any benefit, only loss in low/midrange torque

Just fitted one of these in 600x300x76 single sided to a stagea, seems good, although i dont think the extra size fits in an r33, as the top pipe fouls the headlight

Although it can definately be done, there is no way it is going to work out cheaper than a GTR by the time you engineer it etc, have you seen what you can get a gtr for, 18k?

Try some local alloy fabrication shops, its still not heaps cheap, but saves you buying a whole sheet, and they can fold/guillotine it for you.

Just point the oil feed down a little, excactly the same as mine.

Sorry, peak current throught the wiring is initial pulse, called startup current, so 100% duty cycle would actually be putting less strain on the wiring than 80%, The current draw from injectors is never going to damage wiring, as car injector wiring is usually 10A wire, and injectors draw far less than that, the only way there can be a problem is using low impedence injectors with an ecu designed for high impedence/low current injectors.

This would point to other problems not related to injector size or duty cycle.

^^^^^^Agreed

The torque transfer to the front wheels goes up heaps if the rear tyres are smaller diameter due to different size or wear, as the computer thinks that the different axle speeds are constant wheelspin, or you could just get one of the awd controllers, it cant be helping your fuel economy

Thats not very nice

Hi, im building an rb25/30 for a friend 260z, and have a spare r32 gtr box, does anyone know if the transfer case can be removed and replaceeed with say an r33 gtst housing?

Maybe put a gauge on it that reads a bit higher to actually see how high it goes, Mcstocky is correct though, a softer spring in the releif valve will fix this. An oil cooler will make almost no difference.Do you know what the main and big end bearing clearances are? If they are too small, there will be higher oil pressures, but the bearings will cook, as the oil cant get out of them(hope not)

My rb26 one, you have to sit the turbo in the engine bay, bolt the manifold to the head, and then bolt the turbo on, hope this helps

Agreed, but ive never pulled a stock NEO apart. The combustion chambers in the head are much smaller, so the pistons must have a smaller dome to maintain the same compression.

Yeah, i find it interesting that otomoto list "approximate" A/R's for the ex housings, maybe justjap may have a better idea, as they sell the same turbo's as "JJR"

They dont have one from the factory, and coincedently(not)they dont have an AFM.

There is an rb20 gtr cam thread, basically you need to upgrade to solid lifters at the same time as the cam profile doesn't work with hydraulic lifters.

Do you know the A/R of the exhaust housing? When did it reach full boost on a rb25? Km? Thanks

No, the cover will fit past it.

+1 or try cleaning the air flow meter, have you checked the ecu trouble codes?

Single q45 FTW. Easier to hook up the piping, and should have plenty of power scope, dont worry about the clibration, as they run a q45 fine, and thats luxury car, no rough running there

Just disconnect the hoses to the stock bleeder altogether, hence no need to earth the black wire.

Everything except the pfc and sard's will bolt straight on, you could either sell the pfc and buy an rb25 one(with money in your pocket)or make it fit which wont be hard, just use your existing look and sensors. The injectors should be able to be made to fit, just need an aftermarket rail, or maybe mod you rb20 one.

Cant be done, i would be more concerned that the turbo is a good upgrade due to its compatibility with the motor, do you have some specs on it?

have you considered putting the afm in the intercooler pipe near the throttle body?This would prevent idle and blowoff problems due to backspin and venting bov's