Adriano

Ive done one with a .63 ex housing to make it responsive, as it is a street car. Heaps of workshops said it wouldnt work. Anyhow standard motor, pfc, 550cc inj. 309rwkw 16 psi. 330ish at 18psi, havn't adjusted cam timing yet, so more to come. Nice and responsive, comes on at 3500ish, been running for over a year. I dont know about 400rwkw, unless the motor has cams, headwork etc, but 360 i recon no worries. Wont work hahaha

I think it goes to the factory map sensor.

I guess the way to think of them is in order to advance the cam timing, move the cam in the direction of the a mark, but in doing so you will be using the other marks.

Wonder if we should mention this in the group buy?

Ive got some mitsu ones downstairs, ill go have a look.- they dont have any A or R markings, just the lines

AT and IT are Air temp and Intake temp, which are used by the dyno to increase or decrease the power number to account for atmospheric conditions. I think the point is that the only real way to accurately determine what gain was made is to do back to back runs, which you would do if the cam was dialled in on the dyno.

And its not easy to do when the motor is in the car with the head on. Also tomei cant say what settings will work best on every different setup, turbo, manifolds, compression, porting etc, but i agree, getting the cam to what the manufacturer says would be a good starting point.

i suppose at the end of the day it doesnt really matter, as they should be setup on the dyno, and then you record what the settings are, but yes a bit strange. interestingly enough it says crankshaft degrees, so in theory they are correct because instead of advancing the cam, you are retarding the crank relative to the cam.

just jap do a 100mm bar and plate upgrade cooler for gtr's. they gp on ebay for 250 or so and are fine for what 90% gtr owners want.

Thats right, they are the wrong way around, cant believe noone picked up on this before

Is this a question?

Not neseccerily true, ive seen the silver stuff last on ex manifolds(hope mine does)Comp coatings are in guildford, sydney

The afr's get heaps worse when upping the boost, even standard they can go off the scale(<10:1), and it just gets worse from there, the other major problem is that the computer pulls out heaps of timing which loses any powe gain you would have had.

agreed, interested

Just get the power fc in it, the stendard r&r is far more severe on the r34 than the r33. I dyno'd a stock r 34 gtt, then he went away and got a million dollar front mount, million dollar exhaust, and brought it back, gained 4 rwkw, and lost about 30 kw in the midrange. looked like a rollercoaster. How does your dyno graph look?This one had 2 or 3 skijumps instead of the usual one for a r33)

As above, im in sydney, anyone?

Standard rb26 with djetro, gt35r, 550cc inj, 327rwkw for over a year.

Checkk the vacuum hose from the manifold to the computer

Congrats GT, i was wondering if you still have your EGR hooked up, as under vacuum conditions it injects exhaust gas into the inlet to reduce combustion temps, specifically to target NOx levels. Perhaps if it is hooked up. then you would be able to run leaner mixtures? Also the charcoal canister it there to remove fuel vapour from the tank especially when the tank gets hot and the fuel expands/boils. this is to prevent the pressure forcing raw fuel vapours from going into the atmosphere. Not trying to dampen things, but although it has passed emmissions, the engineer is obliged to check that all these, and pcv/breathers are fully functional, although most engineers dont.

The rb30 ones are heaps longer, main stud kit not needed, but while its apart, its easy to do, roguepi on ebay has them fairly cheap.

Hmmm, there may be other problems then.

Exactly, so 370cc injectors at standard fuel pressure have the ability to make 370hp(its actually a bit less)so 360hp, which equates to about 220-230rwkw safely, as has been proved a number of times. Hope that answers a the question.

Have you considered comp coatings? I got mine done(with a whole lot of other stuff, wastegate, ex housing inlet manifold) and it cost $350

Im not sure, but ive heard bed things about the walbro's ability to flow at higher fuel pressures, i doubt that its injectors, as 4 of them would have to be blocked for this to happen. I suppose the other thing that could cause this is an afm problem causing it to run lean. How do the plugs look? And is the cas near the centre of its adjustment?