Adriano

NA injectors and 300rwkw haha, hope you have got good pumps and 100+psi of fuel pressure.

why not get a set of stock det injectors, they would have to be worth sweet-f-all

rods will be fine, are you fitting oversize pistons? i would agree with paul, that there is no way the highflow has caused this directly, i would be checking your fuel pump, and your breather setup. I bought a vl with an r34 motor with 4 cracked pistons due to the breather hooked up to the intercooler piping, which meant the turbo was pressurising the crankcase causing detonation at 7 psi.

Transmission coolers run at lower pressures than oil, but oil coolers are cheap for the core too, its just the hose and fittings that add up.

Just get your standard one ported and extrudehoned, or try to get an HKS one, far better money spent than the ebay rubbish, not as bling though.

Im sorry, i would have to disagree with most of you, injector size is definately proportional to horsepower assuming the same AFR and duty cycle. A ported head or bigger turbo will make more horsepower and require bigger injectors. A car making 500rwkw will need double the fuel(approximately) than that of a 250rwkw car. There is a simple calculation of what duty cycle and fuel pressure will support a given hp with a certain set of injectors, i just cant remember where the formula is.

Geoff, slow down your making the rest of us look bad.

No they dont, you will need a solid lifter kit, and a set of camwheels(to replace the vct), probably want a set of springs at the same time also. Dont know how much gain there would be though.

rb30, you know you want to.

Have useed them in the past to get more power out of standard injectors, the pressure has to be setupm as it isnt out of the box. There are three different models, 1:1, 1.7:1 and 2:1. no problems with varience on the dyno. i dont understand why do you need one?

Im after one for an r32 gtr, and have a steering rack available if that helps, PM me

Heaps of dc tigs on ebay for $300 or so, and work well for small mild and stainless stuff, up to 5mm, but 6mm would be fine. They seem to work quite well.

Have used the hks ebay cheapiec without any drama for over a year on a mates car, ive got an hks on on my cast lowmount gtr manifold, and the wastegate is the same as the cheapies, but there is a cast "adapter" piece between the two.This piece mounts the gate on an angle. Should be able to make one with two flanges and a bit of steam pipe bend.

If the dyno doesn't have the rpm input(they are a rip off), then i set the speed to 101kph, and hold the car under gentle load at 100, look at the rpm on the handset etc(not the tacho) Then press "Control R"and set the ratio tacho in the top left hand of the screen to say 31.50 if it was doing 3150rpm at 100. when in power run mode, press control down and set the axis to rpm. you may then have to set the parameters using shift down to say 2000-8000. Im a bit rusty, but that should be right. The dyno should have a piece of cardboard that sits above the function keys and explains all this, but its probably sitting in the draw.

make sure the breather hose isnt connected to the intercooler piping, ive seen it twice now, and it destroys motors in no time.

I use some 2mm steel plate with lots of 6mm holes drilled in it to go in between the flanges, just put lots of stainless steel pot scourers in front of these, should do the trick, but t he car will run like crap, so i wouldn't boost it.

HKS do a kit, but its around $8000. You could probably do it for $1500 if you have the head off already, already have an aftermarket ecu and know someone with a dyno, although to make it worthwhile, i would only think there would be a real benefit if you are making over 300rwkw, and are planning on fitting some 272's. Remember you dont only have to set the switch on pionts, but also adjust them (i dont know if all the vct gears are adjustable)Icould see a whole day of stuffing around on the dyno to gete the most benefit. Does anyone know how much the vct adjusts the cam timing by? Remember you will also need to sort out somethig for the cas.

ACL website should have most of the imformation, i think youo meant compression height, i.e form the centre of the gudgeon pin to the piston deck height.

Must admit it doesn't look home made, a water spray should work well with it.

To disable the vct, simply unplug the soleniod. I believe that it would most certainly be possible to do a dual vct setup, all it needs is two inlet cams with camwheels, a soleniod to switch the oil pressure(with a bleed orifice to relieve the pressure) and an iol port drilled into the head at the appropriate spot. Would probably want to run biggish cams to make the most of it though. Also need a jaycar controller, and a lot of dyno time.

Im not sure what the answer is, but port volume is the volume of the port as he said, put the head on its SIDE and fill the port with liquid. Maybe if you tell us what it is you are trying to do, we may be of more assistance.

Do adjustable rear camber arms make a big difference? They are cheap on ebay, Dial up 0 camber, its gotta help.

All springs are cut-twice.

I really think you need to forget the numbers, and concentrate on the overall package. Realistically 600RWKW is more than can be used on a street car, as to make those power levels, the torque delivery characteristics will involve lag, and a skijump torque curve, whick IMO doesnt work well on a street(or circuit)car. Dont let AWD change what you are designing as in the real world with this sort of power exiting a corner and coming on boost mid corner i would alost prefer to just have 2 wheels break traction than 4 and be fighting torque steer at the same time. Just remember torque wins races and the throttle can controll big midrange torque, not so much rapid torque changes

I put a .63 GT35R on a stock RB26, it comes on hard at about 3600, and makes max power at 7500, so it doesn't really die off at all, makes 309 RWKW at 16 psi, without adjusting the cams, and made about 330rwkw at 18 psi.