Adriano

It should be possible to get it to pass, P.S. make sure your closed loop is enabled on the hand controller. They dont do power runs or anything like that, its all mid/low throttle stuff. you will need to have the cold start/warm up enrichments well calibrated to pass though. When i had a car tested, they practically made it pass by telling me where to make the adjustments, and then did the second test. PS when i worked at chiptorque, we got the horsepower hero VK commodore with 440 rwhp to pass, although the cats almost killed the motor.

I would say without knowing the full story, thet the bolt holding the pulley on was dvertensioned. They are a hollow bolt, so they wouldn't be too strong.

Do a search of "rich and retard", there are about 100 threads on this exact thing. There is no boost cut, it just accesses load points that cause it to run rich(er) and retard the timing, maybe its a bad batch of fuel? When did you last gap your plugs?

Close your plug gaps down to .8mm, to check the coils remove the cover over them, give it a quick brap of the throttle at night while watching the coils, you will most likely see sparks(where there shouldn't be). Fuel pump can sound fine and drive fine, but only loose power under boost. Nissan's dont have any boost cut, not until you start running high power levels that max out the airflow meter, which is unlikely. Sitting at high speeds doesn't run on boost, so most of these symptoms would not show.

Yes, build an rb30, yes(but only if you get it engineered)

Yep, my 300zx did that, i dont see how the bracket being loose(scary) would cause the timing to change enough to notice, unless the bolts were completely undone, as the bracket is located to the head by dowels, if they are that loose, your timing is the least of your worries.

True, i just dont see where DD get that constant from?

When i used to do dyno tuning, i did wonder about this, especially as there is two settings in the menu for it, (N)newtons and (Nm). Now i can understand how it can figure out the force(N) as tractive effort, as it is simply the torque to the retarder x radius roller. as for Nm, where is this torque at? because torque is measured about an axis, so are we talking axle torque, in which you would have to enter the wheel diameter, which you dont. I think tractive effort in newtons is more important, as the acceleration can be calculated from it. Anyway its the shape of the curve that is the most important thing.

Fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter, cracked coils, blocked catalytic converter. Most likely one of these

Use the rb26 crank and aftermarket 26 rods and forged pistons, should be strong enough for a to4z with plenty of boost, just make sure you have all the other supporting bits, valve springs, injectors, computer and possibly cams

true that, ive got a corn flake that looks like jesus, wonder what thats worth?

Running no cover can cause your belt to wear prematurely, as dust gets in there, it is also a bit dangerous, like when you are checking your timing, the lead can get picked up, although it looks good.

Or use loctite ultra grey, just dont use too much, just a small amount will be fine.

As gas cools, its density increases, and its volume decreases. Most intercooler plumbing is more than adequate for the flow, 2in nintercooler piping is enough for about 240rwkw at least without significant pressure drop across the piping. Nissan i think use 2 1/4 piping on the gtst standard( i think) so in theory that is fine for 300kw. The other way to think of it is standard gtr (3 1/4) or aftermarket fmic 3" piping is more than adequate for very high power, in 99% cases it would not be the limiting factor

Ill put your mind at ease, there would definately be a separator plate.

XS power ones are on ebay all the time, just make sure you get the correct one. Or an hks cast low mount one is good especially if you have an rb26 head.

Grom running heaps up on the dyno, i think that the r & r on the s14's is a bit harsher than the s13's, similar to the r33 to r34, they just built in more protection. 170rwkw sounds about right for your mods, just need the management fixed, you can get it chipped, replace it or an safc may do the job. Also sr20's are renown for stuffing cam angle sensors.

Yeah, doesn't look like its going to fit, there are lower ebay manifolds which fit the turbo beside the head.

Thats all it is, a remap on the stock ecu.

Maxima's came out turbo, and a z32 n/a has the same afm as a twin turbo, so possibly, what diameter is it?

Do you have a photo/ Are you possibly thinking of the knock sensors.

The price is nice and cheap, 101000 km sounds a bit sus, as thats a good spot to stop when winding it back, but the condition of the car is more important than the k's. See if you can run it up on the hoist, eaasy to tell diff whines, check suspension bushes etc. Athough at that price you can afford to spend a bit tidying it up, as long as the motor doesn't blow, keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge when hot at low rpm.

having driven heaps of both, an r34 gtt, is a nice new car, which goes well. 99% r32 gtr's show their age, its the little things that count, paint fade, squeaks and rattles, a/c not working, dash bubbles, if you can afford to get a really good one then they are a better car by far, but the running costs, maintainance and repairs(remember its more than 10 yrs older)will be 10 times that of the gtt that probably just needs servicing and tyres. Both great cars in my opinion.

I would only use oil flush on a new car or something that has oil flush used frequently, especially if it is turbocharged, it can create blowby, and start the turbo seals leaking. I would drain the old oil, put new cheap diesel oil in it, take it easy for a week and then change it again.(diesel oil has far more detergents in it)

Im planning on staging my fans if my car ever gets running