Adriano

I would like to see the test repeated more than once to be conclusive, also a comparison of the boost between the two runs, i would be curious to find out why the afr's changed. Also where was the air temp sensor during the runs? I tend to agree with cubes, why did it make more power at low rpm where the airbox would not be a restriction? I would guess the boost was slightly different in the two runs.

. Alot of tuners these days tune on street without a dyno, and just checking everything else n dyno. Where on earth did you get that idea, usually good tuners only do road tunes if they dont have a 4wd dyno, and are tuning an awd car, thats my experience from the 3 dyno shops ive worked at.

You dont happen to have a website for R.A.G.E. do you, i googled it and only found music and road rage.

THere is a guy on here selling two, if you do a search you should be ab;e to fid him.

GT35R, .63 ex housing, stock rb26 550cc inj PFC d-jetro 16 psi. 309rwkw. Hakes max power at 7500-8000, comes on as early as i would expect a 700hp turbo to be able to, starts pulling about 3600. HKS T45s .90 T04 ex housing, stock rb26, 550cc inj, remap. laggy as hell, got car with 1 smashed piston, was supposed to make 380rwkw at 20psi, made 260rwkw at 14psi(with 5 pistons), so 380 isnt out of the relms of possibility.

as the safc advances the ignition timing as you lean out the mixtures, usually you cant lean them out enough, as the advance gets too high, and detonation occurs, im about to install a jaycar DFA(does the same thing, and im going to retarc the base timing on the cas by about two degrees so that i can pull a bit more fuel out with a safety margin and try to get the full load mixtures up to 12.2:1. If youy dont reatrd the timing, usually you can only lean out the mixtures to about 11.5:1

Just one more question does anyone know what the fuel comsumption is like with a heavy trailer on the back? Terriable, usually about double what you would normally get, unless you get a diesel, they hardly go through any more.

Actually, i think quite the opposite, the further apart the peak torque is to the peak power, the more tractable it is, imagine it would probably pull quite well from 4500-10500, thats a nice wide torque band.

TDO4 and early(vr4 and evo1-3) have the same flange pattern, but nowhere near the same as a skyline, late tdo5'5 (evo4+)are a nightmare, steer clear, they spin the other way, and have a funny shape splitpulse exhaust housing.

sounds like the pot calling the kettle black eh

Nope, nothing like that, that i can think of.

Good to hear its fixed, the factory computer doesn't have any self learning, and i cant see how a cup of water will do anything. Its still possibly the cat converter, sometimes they lodge and dislodge themself, blocking and unblocking the exhaust. Has it had a fuel filter done?

I dont understand, if its primarily a track car, why are you painting it? A light coat of paint on the front will be fine, if paint was that bad for heat exchange, radiators wouldn't have been painted for all those years, XR6's and gtr's have black painted coolers from the factory, and it takes 10 years for the paint to flake off, just give it a bit of etch primer on the end tanks.

Garrett TO4Z or Gt30r would be even more streetable.

I doubt that, i would check for trouble codes, clean the AFM and check fuel pressure under load. Also check your catalytic converter by banging on it, if it rattles, then its stuffed.

And it only takes about 30 sec, although i have found that there is some discrepency when setting up the ratio tacho on the dyno, when doing a power run with heaps of grunt, there is some tyre slip, it only takes 3 or 4% slip to throw out the numbers significantly

Umm the timing has nothing to do with the mixtures

Dont be confused between a 300kw gain in total, its just that the power comes on earlier(and more)to the point that it now makes boost(and power) where it didnt before, excellent result must be happy as a pig in s#$t. Whats the driving difference like?

Thats all good in theory, except the recharge time never comes close the the total spark cycle, waste spark works fine on turbo/high revving motors, mitsubishi evo's, mazda rotaries etc. The coil recharge time on nissan coils is low due to th compact nature of the coils, not the high revving nature of the motor. If splitfires and nissan coils are exactly the same, why do splitfires run well with more dwell time? I believe that splitfires have a slight varience in the number of coil windings, and maybe wire gauge, but until someone pulls one apart, noone can be sure. There isa fair bit of info about doing a waste spark setup, and i think its a great way around the pricy problems with the nissan setup, just steer clear of the early commodore types, as they are known to have problems, or even better get the msd coils, and you can give them heaps of recharge time so they have a nice fat spark.

1mm is ideal

Adaptronic is a great ecu, i used to work for the distributor, and fitted/tuned quite a few, IMO you cannot beat its value for money. Oh, it can also be hooked up to an air flow meter. Andy(the owner) just doesn't have to time to market them properly, he's so flat out building them.

or UAS sell a spigot bearing upgrade, better than the bush, i think its about $40

I think you could call them an interference fit, although they are so thin that the sleeve stretches over the metal, like all interference fits?Some require heat, as the interference is tighter, and the outer part is too rigid

She is so hot

Its not a bad idea, but you really dont need a djetro at this power level, i would stick with an AFM for better drivability.