Adriano

Have you tried playing with the cold start enrichment?

They only recommend loctite if there is heaps of wear, supposedly you are meant to use a loctite sealant to prevent leakage under the sleeve

Used them on heaps of cranks, and they work fine, just remove the seal first(youd want to replace it anyway)and you need to measure the crank before you order it, they aren't that cheap though, considering waht they are, probably about $80, just be carefull fitting it, or youll have to get another one.Most bearing shops can supply them.

The wolf is a sweet computer, the only real thing i can fault it on is the boost control, being that it isn't closed loop, it takes a while to get a good curve on the dyno, then on the road the boost changes as the ramp rate does, it may be fixed on the new ones though?

Im also looking for one

.8 will be a bit low, maybe try 1.2, although i dont think this is your problem, can you stick a scope on the cas, did you put a wolf trigger disc in it? Anyhow, alex should be able to sort it out in no time, and he's very reasonable in price too.

Theres one on ebay from roguepi for $599

Theres no such thing as -17psi, as long as you dont live in a black hole.

Sorry cubes for once i have to disagree with you, as the rb20 i have delt with, the owner ran no timing cover and broke the half moon/dowel off, we ended up fixing it(after trying gtr cams to no success)by lining up the recess of the cas with where we could see the dowel used to be, and fitting it, it had a course spline, so we just had to make sure it was on the correct one. However if this was the case, and it was fitted out one spline off, there is no way the car would run as the ignition timing would be at a guess 240 degrees out, as i believe the spline is 6 sided.

Thats funny, because you seem to be the only person on this forum who thinks this.

I think it is ironic that the nrma is backing this no points rule, when as soon as you lose your liscence, they wont reasonably insure you for ages. I think that a lot of beaurocracy is a massive waste of money, imagine all the money that has been spent on this debate, hundreds of government employees, some of whom get paid a lot to come up with these ideas, spending hundreds of hours in meetings, and private contract companies doing feasability studies, how about we put all that money towards some cheap motorsport for young drivers. I would love to do a tarmac motorkhana, low speed driver control, can be done wet or dry i dont care. They used to do these in carparks, still do in england by the hundreds. I have never seen or heard of this in sydney, except a few on the skidpad at oran park. I find a thrash on the track settles me down for a while, but if i could spend $40 within 30min drive on a weekend, id probably go every weekend.

Have you driven it yet? The car i tried it on, we got it to idle(lumpy) but the car lost about 50% of its torque up to 3-4000rpm, didnt bother revving it any harder

IMO realistically a street gtst doesn't need forgies, 300rwkw in a well setup road car is very quick, and if well set up/tuned should last. What power are you after? Just set yourself to a realistic number and buy the smallest turbo that will do it, average power(torque)is what wins on the street.

147kw, about average for your mods, is it running standard boost?

Are you upgrading the dump pipes/manifolds at the same time?

Getting oversize pistons makes stuff all difference to the comp, if tis the same cams as the previous motor, and has lost 30 psi, its a fair bet its running lower comp. How many k's has it done? Do you know if the engine builder cc'd the chambers, checked piston heights/squish etc. Is it an r33 head, if so i cant see any reason for a 2mm head gasket, usually you are trying to get as much comp out of them as you can, even with n/a pistons, do you know what brand of piston was used?

In some instances, these would definately make a difference, however the two cars i have tried them on(sr20 376rwkw, and 4g63 246rwkw)it didn't make any difference.

Why the n1 water pump, do you do track days?Still no timing belt tensioner stud?Unless you have experience with a particular mechanic, there is little way of knowing what sort of job that is going to be done, all mechanics have things stuff up, whether its their fault or not, and theres plenty of apprentices who can kick a tradesman up the arse. When i was a second year apprentice, i was asked by two qualified mech's if i could put the ignition leads on their cars after doing a head gasket as they didn't know how to figure out which way they went, and one of them topped his class at tech, i find a good percentage of dealership mechanics have poor ability, but i dont have to trust my car to anyone.

I think you mean 3.5 thou, .35mm is 14thou, it would slap the skirts off

yes, its all in the thread.

You need to do this under load to see if there is any voltage drop, as current drawn by the coils is directly proportional to cylinder pressures.

Maybe try putting a multimeter on the power feed wire to the coils and go for a drive to see if there is any voltage drop in the wiring to the coils, and make sure the ecu is well earthed.

I think its a bit rich, but not too bad, i just dont see how it makes it more responsive than standard?

umm $700

Im pretty sure all s15's and series 2 s14's are BB, all the ones ive worked on are, and most of them have never had the turbo off.