Adriano

As an example of what nimoid is saying when i worked at chiptorque, we built a s14 which made 376rwkw, big turbo, cams, 26psi, on the street, it felt like a diesel gemini until 5500rpm, almost impossible to make boost in first without being silly. If it ever came on boost on the street, it would wheelspin 1,2,3,4 in about 100m, it was the most impracticle car ever, no good for anything. No average power, the further you can stay away from something like this, the better.

Just wondering if the manifold required welding up, or did you get it done as a preventative measure. as far as the internal finish is concerned, it is certainly no worse than the original manifold, but a clean up certainly wont hurt.

Precision engine parts are in silerwater, they are cheap, but probably no worse than standard in quality/strength.

i bet they will be, as mine were, but im using an R34 gtt head, so thats what i need.

Have you tried swapping over the cas. its a 2 minute job.

R34's dont have hydraulic lifters.

How about some driver training, and i recon people should lose 2 points for doing 10km under the speed limit.

Rods tend to fail at 550fwhp, but nowadays they are so cheap, i would defintely put them in. Im building a motor with ACL forgies, but its not running yet so i cant report on their performance.

AFI in sydney can supply a new(or reco?)Cas for under $200 if i remember correctly

Sounds good, wouldnt run above 12 psi, but youll be wanting a highflow turbo soon.

Really doubt its coil packs as you have splitfires and the problem doesn't appear to be only under full load. When the problem occurs, what does the tacho do, if it jumps around, id say the cas, if it doesn't, then the igniter.

Just fixed a similar problem in a stagea, cleaned air flow meter with carby cleaner, fitted new spark plugs(BKR6EK i think)and fitted a new oxygen sensor, no stalling and car gets heaps better fuel economy.( oxy sensor $90 from auto one (P/N NTK OZA395-E2))

Check trouble codes, sounds like when my cam angle sensor was dying, it was heat related, and appeared to be load dependant(it would still drive at 10% throttle, but giving it any more made it miss and die)

yep but you will want to fit a crank collar

As above, need one for rego, mine has broken lens and doesn't work, PM me, thanks

Is there any way you can try the computer on the dyno te see if it makes a difference before you buy it? Ive heard they run super rich up top, but dont retard the timing like the stocker, so unfortunately a SAFC2 should in theory work better on a stock computer as you are able to lean it out more under load without having detonation problems. I am currently looking for one of these computers to see if i can remap them, and i highly doubt that mines is the only source of the chips, as im sure they dont make them.Does anyone have any contact details for the guy who remaps the r33 computers?

Realistically, any cam change will reqiure the shims to be at least checked, most likely replaced, as no two cams are exactly the same, and valve recession will have occured since they were last set, going slightly longer in the duration whilst maintaining under 10.2(i think)mm lift, gets around the need to upgrade springs, and modify the head. AFAIK, the stock cams are 240 deg, and i have heard of up to 310deg cams being used in drag cars. i believe the theory of using a bigger ex cam is that in a turbo car, the inlet is pressurised, and the smaller car increases cylinder filling, whilst the restrictive head/turbo exhaust side)compared to a n/a car) can use the additional scavenging time without adversely affecting the drivability, but i could be talking out my arse. What sort of driving do you intend to do? Whaw sort of hp are you after? There are plenty of GTR's that make 350rwkw with standard cams.

I dont think anyone can remap the ecu over here, as its definately not the same chip as say an r32 chip.

Correct, you will need to screw a 1/8 bsp to -3 fitting into the head, then a -3 90deg hose end onto that to clear the timing belt, then make sure you fit a 1mm restrictor to the other end of the hose where it T's into the oil pressue sender(Thats what i do anyway)

I would run a gt35r with a .86 ex housing. What fuel do you have to run it on? I would run 8.6-8.8:1 comp ratio if you are concerned about knock, and try to run 30-35 thou of squish to help keep it efficient. You really need to dummy assemble the motor first, and cc/measure everything and figure out what headgasket thickness/block decking you require to achieve your squish/comp. o and buy a graduated burette and a piece of perspex, makes the job a whole lot easier. I wouldnt be too worried about the restrictor in the tomei kit, as far as making one it is probably the easiest part to fabricate in the whole conversion. Just get a short length of 1/4in dia brass rod and drill/cut it to suit.

To make full use of the turbo, a fuel pump, remapped ecu and gtr injectors should see 200-220rwkw with a bleed valve.

For your setup, i would recommend HKS 264deg inlet and 272deg exhaust, is this a street car? This setup allows a nice idle with good fat midrange which is great for the street.

Even with the stock turbo there are good gains to be had with a remap, and better fuel economy/ mixtures under boost.

Dump pipe, K&N insert and a fuel pump, running it with a standard computer will hold it back, but there is no way it will hurt your motor, the ecu has such savage engine protection built in

A leaky injector can certainly destroy a motor, if one cylinder is running so rich you can smell it, it will be getting fuel wash and that cylinder will not run in, the other concern is hydraulic lock after the car has been sitting, a leaky injector can fill a cylinder up to the point whereby when you go to crank it, it will bend a conrod.