Adriano

Any photos of the ex temp gauge?

If the inlet valve guides/seals are worn, it will blow smoke when accalerating after decel, such as after going down a long hill, as the inlet manifold vacuum sucks the oil past. Exhaust guides/seals will blow smoke on startup, but not leave any residue on the plugs. Is there oil in the intercooler piping, any residue around the exhaust housing. Have you done a comp test, or is there much blowby out the breather under load?

I would pay him the $200 for taking the head off and get your car out of there

Stocky Mc stock has this fittes to his car, maybe pm him and see if he has had any probs. Remember you will need an afm that will have a lot of high end resolution, as you now have one instead of two afm's, i would go for a Q45. This will allow atmospheric bov's to not affect running as long as the afm is after it in the piping. running boost through it shouldn't make any difference in theory, as the AFM measures the MASS of the air, regardless of temp or pressure, just as loks as there aren't any mechanical issues with doing it such as i melting. I would place it as close to the throttle, after any bov on a straight run of pipe, with at least one bend between it and the throttle. Also make sure you leave the mesh in the AFM, as i would imagine the biggest problem could be associated with turbulence in the pipework causing erratic readings.

Man thats so much difference it looks like it was done in 2 different gears.

Who are "they"?

Ypu would have to get the complete manifold with throttles and the piece between the throttles and head, then make an adapter, usually rb20's need all the low down torque they can get, putting a gtr manifold will lose you heaps of it, and the standard manifold can still be used to make heaps of power, why do you want to change it?

Basically r33 gtst's cant be reprogrammed, there are some around, but mostly done in japan. Do you have a standrd turbo, if so dont expect to get ant real gain from the front mount, better off getting a good split dump pipe and 3in exhaust.

If you are able to make brackets yourself, you could do one very cheap, use a second hand commodore v6 blower(about $500 on ebay)beware, it will be a lot of fabrication, but should be good for 180rwkw with heaps of low down torque.

As it appears that your turbo needs to be rebuilt again, ask the reconditioner if it has signs of oil starvation, the bearings will probably be discoloured. I would remove your oil pump, as it is the most likely cause, and they are problematic in rb's, also chech the pressure releif valve(in the pump. The only other thing you could try is removing the oil filter housing as well, and cleaning out the passage between the pump and oil filter and the filter and the turbo. While the sump is off(to remove the pump, check the oil pickup for clogging or cracks/looseness.

There is a write up in the technical section on how to wire it up.

t2 or t28, they are the same, although any turbo off a gtr that you would fit to an rb25 would want to be a big aftermarket one, and wouldn't have a t28 flange. The biggest t28 flange turbo made by garrett is 440hp, a gtr turbo is about 260-280hp if you push it.

hotter, i usually use braided, as getting small quantaties of the good flex stuff can be hard, pirtek may have some though.

im pretty sure they dont have bands, the most likely damage to the box will be the clutches having the friction material delaminate, auto's tend to start slipping instead of breaking the gears, as the degisn of the gears make them very strong.

assuming its not a djetro version. you dont need anyhting, plug and play. Just make sure it is the correct one for your car. I think racepace are in melb?

I have delt with them quite a bit, typical chinese stuff, some good, ,they are quite disorganised, im not sure how good their english is, they sell stuff on ebay they dont have in stock, and just send the wrong stuff.

Good article, thanks, interesting thet he says the drivetrain loss is 26% regardless of fwd or rwd or horsepower level.

Disco, when are you going to open a turbo shop, you really seem to know your shit

You could use a single 16 or 18in fan with the standard shroud(although the good fans are bloody expensive)

I am under the impression that running no bov when you release the throttle, the turbo backspin/chatter causes the air to go back and forth through the afm causing richness, also manufacturers fitted bov's to increase turbo life, prevent backspin noise and deal with the above problem.

Have a look inthe group buy section, there is a guy who can offer you the best advice. Im a refridgeration mechanic, and i cant see why the condensor/evaporator would need to be replaced unless they are leaking.

No, the throw is too great.

Does it display any other symptoms of a worn/stuffed motor, oil consumption, smokey, excess blowby? With the power it is making, there is no way that those compression readings can be correct, especially as they dont vary excessively, assuming it isnt a worn 1000hp motor.

The factory ecu does not measure boost, only airflow. The program in it is set so if the airflow exceeds normal operating parameters, the timing is retarded, and the mixture is enrichened. Also if the rate of airflow increase is too high, or it exceeds a certain point for a preset time, there is a safety feature built into the computer which wil cut the fuel. The boost sensor only operates the boost gauge.l

IMO the biggest problem with nissan oil pumps is teh grive, it fetigues the brittle(hardened)gears, causing them to break, with a crank collar(like what comes with the jun pump) an N1 should be fine. Im sure if anyone fitted a jun pump without a collar, they would have the same problem, possibly worse, as it would require more torque to drive it. Im building a mototr for my gtr, very similar to yours, and using an r33 gtr pump with a proengines collar.