Adriano

If possible, i would prefer to mount the windage tray/crank scrapers to the sump or adapter plate, as drilling m6 holes on the cradle can only weaken it, and the rb30 needs all the bottom end rigidity it can get, ive heard of people getting the cradle cryogeniced to strengthen it.

What head are you using

Was the throttle open, i would say the compression tester is stuffed, generally anything under 100 psi and the cylinder wont make any power.

if your stocker is stuffed, just jap do a 100mm upgrade "bolt on" for $300 or so, they have gtr style end tanks which are quite good.

What he said, im assuming that the numbers are two different tests, however the injectors didnt flow the same relatively?ie the ones that flowed less in the first test didnt in the second? Are you sure the wiring plugs were secure on the injectors?

They bolt on, and they are heaps weaker, but still quite strong

He is talking shit, they run rich as from the factory, otherwise `every other skyline would be burning exhaust valves, which valve did it drop? Not taking due care whilst installing cams can most certainly cause them or a valve to break, the valve seat was probably broken by the bent/broken valve.

it depends if you have a wide or narrow oil pump drive on the crank and what harmonic balancer you are using, either will be fine if you have a good balancer and a crank collar. Just make sure you put loctite on the bolts that hold the pump halves together.

Fitting a high stall always makes the changes smoother, as they slip more, how much higher did you go, it the converter smaller? just be prepared for your fuel economy to be worse.

Has been done before with success, stockymcstocks rb25/30 does this, it allowsyou to have a venting bov before the afm, and still run fine when blowing off. It will need a clean more regularly, but IMO if your getting oill into the piping then there is another problem. Just make sure you leave the mesh in it and try to put oit in a straight bit of the i/c piping

You need to cc the head to determine the exaact size, as they do vary, and a small difference here makes a big difference in the comp. You could deck the block to increase the comp, but i wouldn't go smaller than 30thou squish on a street engine, the rest you will have to take out of the head, thats the problem of using flat top pistons, dome tops are heaps easier to get the higher comp.If you use a 1mm head gasket and 10 thou off the block, you will lose about 3cc, probably need to shave the head 15-20 thou also, but measure it all first, guy a burette and dummy assemble it first before you get the deck/head machined.

Dude you should have put it on ebay, i just sold the same thing for $2100, no bull, more than they cost new!

liverpool exhaust sells them

agreed, just have to bear in mind the heat from the oil is transferred to the water, thet the radiator then has to cool, if your cooling system struggles due to big hp/ hot day this will make it worse.

the single turbo version fits, if you cant get a package with computer loom and afm, you are probably easier off getting an aftermarket computer. The standard computer can be chipped with great success.

Has anyone tried to fool the pfc into retarding the timing during gearchanges, by maybe latching a signal down(eg engine temp to 120 deg during gearchange)then just set that cell to say -10 deg? Would only take some simple circuitry, as long as it didn't register as a faolt code because of the sudden change. is there any tricks thet you could use with datalogit, im sure there will be a way to do this. On the consault can you see how much timing the standard computer pulls out on changes?

need springs and head machining to clear lobes

Im after that sort of power out of my 26/30, im using a a pair of TODA 272deg, but i think a 264deg inlet cam would make it a bit nicer, it just allows me more headroom inn the future.

Coz unless you wanna spend the time f**king around getting VCT to work (oil feed etc), or getting rid of it then the NA RB25DE head is the way to go Its one grub screw and one oil line, run an r34 computer

They are both solid, thats the only similarity

However, if you were considering bolting the head to an RB30 bottom end down the track, don't choose the NEO RB25 now, choose the R33 RB25DET. Why? I think the NEO works better.

With a very simple closed loop, and far less resolution on the injector duty cycle, trying to get accurate mixture control is impossible with big injectors, especially at low rpm, which has to effect fuel economy.

How much bigger is this screen than the standard one?

The only other way that i thought of doing it is running datalogit on a new windows based stereo or a palm pilot, but $$$$

Does anyone have a broken hand controller, my electronics mate reacons he can do it but he needs a part number or a look at the original screen, will pay $$