Adriano

The casting is pretty good, i wouldn't bother porting it unless you are after 700hp or more. A set of 2nd hand gtr cams with the aerospeed camgears will be a pretty good setup athough you wil lose a small amount of lowdown torque due to the bigger cams and no vct, but you really end up with a gtr head without the hassles of manifolds.

They aren't anywhere as accurate as their display would suggest, they should just have three led's rich' lean and stioch, but then they wouldn't sell very many. Neither would they if they made it a proper kit with a wide band sensor and sold it for $800

Yes ive fitted one to an rb30. Neo's have flat top pistons and a small cc in the head, wheras r33's have dome pistons and a larger cc in the head. It is about 11cc difference, so if you ran a neo head with r33 pistons the c:r will end up at 10:1. Also the nea has bigger inlet valves.

Head and manifolds will bolt on as they are they same bolt pattern as r33, everything else lines up to r33 block, dont forget to use oil restrictors. VVT is on the inlet cam only, but it is variable, so to control it properly, you need to use a 3d map with a PWModulated output, which your computer doesn't have. Also your CAS will not bolt to the exhaust cam. If your going for something extreme, im assuming you would put cams in. R32 gtr cams fir and allowyour cas to bolt in, but you will lose the vct, just fit some camwheels, as it will be heaps cheaper then trying to setup the vct on the dyno with a shipload of load pionts that need to be setup. Also dont forget you will need completely different pistons as the neo has much smaller combustion chambers which will increse to compresion rtio by approx 1

I would definately get a pfc before a boost controller, you will get better gains out of just a computer than just boost, as the R&R is so savage on these. Having said that save up and get both, for that sort of boost level, you dont need any fancy electronic boost controller, a bleeder will work almost as well, and save you some money on the dyno and fitting as well. If your hands on, you could build a Jaycar IEBC, which is probably one of the best boost controllers aound, and it s $140 with controller.

Sorry. if your nissan vector wouldn't even crank, then the problem wasn't the ecu. Another obvious thing to look for is any intercooler hose that has popped off, but im pretty surre the car would still start, it would just run really rich.

A far better alternative is an Safc2, or if your on a budget, a jaycar fuel controller, they both do the same thing, except you can program them, hence use them to control mixture.

Sorry mate with the imformation you have given us it could be hundreds of things, anything is just a guess. I would look into the diagnostics in the computer before you take it to a mechanic, as most wont know how to do it and youll end up spending money for them to figure it out. If you dont feel comfortable doing it, just find out the procedure and give that to the mechanic, it could save you several hundred dollars in misdiagnosis. Remember an engine only needs three things to start, fuel, ignition and compression all in the correct quntities.

nup

Wouldn't this already have teh rear oil feed blocked off and a 1.6mm one in the front?

Adjusting the cam by 4deg at the cam will effect ign timing by 8deg if the cas isn't reset(ie put back where it came out)

Thats awesome, hope i can see it in the flesh one day, cant wait to see the results

I found 34 gtt's hit r&r a lot easier and harder than r33's. I dynod one stock, and then after a turbo back and front mount, nothing else, and r&r was savage, lost up to 30 kw, only gained about 5kw after it clawed its way out of the hole.

Soak them i wd40 for a couple of days before you have to remove it(drown then regularly)

Either the relay or the switch, i think the switches are pretty common to go

I reprogrammed the chip in my Z32 300zx tt, got awesome results. Once you get the hang of it its really quite easy.

Turn the motor over, and see if the cam has any writing cast into it

Are you sure, i dont think one of the fastest gtr's in the world with a $40000 bottom end would be running a stock head, ill bet it has big valves and a comprehensive race port job to make its 1200hp at 10000rpm

5 out of 6:) scary, i think there may be a problem

The only way the pump will change your tune is if the car was previously tuned with the fuel pressure dropping off

Definately possible, just need to make sure the cas is the same(or use a r32 one), and check out the injector impedence

IMO if this was caused by detonation, it would be very unlikely to have done 5 sparkplugs, as i would have thought detonation would be more prone in one perticular cylinder, then the next. By the time you have 5 cylinders detonating, something would break. Is it possible the fuel pump is on its way out, causing lean mixtures hence far higher combustion temps causing spark plug melting and detonation. Just my 2c, correct me if im wrong

yep, thats exactly how id do it

cant be done without modifying the cams or going to solid lifters.

how much nos are we talking?power with and without?