Adriano

I think this problem must be due to the position af the thermostat in the lower radiator hose. All cooling systems are setup with a thermostat bypass(usually a small hose) which keeps a small amount of coolant circulating even with the thermostat shut, with the thermostat in the lower hose, this bypass would be bigger, as the thermostat has more "heat lag" as in if the motor gets hot, it has to heat all the water in the radiator before the thermostat sees this increase and increases the flow. A bigger bypass reduces this lag. This probably explains wht skylines seem to take a bit linger than othe rcars to heat up, and why this problem seems confined to vl's and skylines.

??? The cas still bolts to the front of the exhaust cam, but it has a different spline

Im building an RB25/30 with an r34 neo head for an r32 drift car. The differences are that with the solid lifter i am chucking in my old standard gtr cams which means the r32 CAS bolts straight in. If you wanted to keep the VCT you can just fit the exhaust gtr cam. The combustion chamber is smaller meaning with my ACL flat tops, it ends up with 8.8:1 comp. On top of the R33 head, they have 1mm bigger inlet valves and the solid lifters, also the vct is variable instead of switched like the 33. For my next 25/30 i would like to get two R34 gtt VCT pulleys and setup a VCT on both the inlet and exhaust with a twincharge like Stocky's

Still waiting for my five cam wheels

Consider it sold, where abouts are you, i may be able to get it picked up?

I fitted a d-jetro to a r32 gtr, to do this it uses two map sensors, both in the runners after the throttles.Installing them is a bastard of a job, as it requires removal of the plenum, throttles etc, i didn't have any dramas with tuning, although the car is running standard cams. Neuther fuel ecomomy or response would be improved over a standard pfc.

I think the problem must be associated with the placement of the thermostat in the bottom radiator hose or the size of the thermostat bypass. I cant think of any car i have driven that does this, including trucks, that can be at full engine braking for long periods of time with heaps more air being pumped through the motor as they dont have throttles, with a big arse radiator, and they dont go cold

double post

will if i can get one

He decided not to go ahead with it due to moving back home, this is like brand new, as said never been used since rebuilt, would be great on a 25/30

Sorry, although there is little/no metal on metal contact in a motor, 1/3 power goes in frictional losses, 1/3 out the exhaust and 1/3 out the crank

Even with fuel cut down a long hill, the water temp shouldn't drop with a good thermostat. To do that the internals of the motor would have to get below 80deg and actually cool the water in it. When engine braking down a hill there is bugger all air going through the motor as the throttle is shut, and there is still plenty of internal friction. there has been talk of afttermarket thermostats having dramas, maybe try a new genuine one??

Yes, how much for a coil cover?

How?

wife b4 i married her

Do i win a prize? hope the crnks ok, if it has any metal on it you could rub it off with some fine emery and wd40, just make sure you get it clean before you reassemble, and check the clearances with plastigauge, you want 1-2 thou maximum

I would chuck a consult on it if you can, or check for codes, could be coolant temp sensor not plugged in?

Unfortunately none of this explaines why duty is at 100%, as the duty is only dependant on the programming and the airflow meter. O2 sensor feedback turnes off under load. Either the computer is remapped, or possibly the coolant temp sensor is stuffed, and the computer is giving it cold enrichment. Also your fuel pump is nowhere big enough, if you block the return line, pressure should go up to about 600kpa.

Undo the rods one at a time, seeing if the crank frees up. Make sure you mark the rod caps so they go back on the rod they came off, did you do that last time? If not they will need to be closed and honed. the little tongues on the big end bearings go on the same side of the rod, if they are the other way around they will make the engine tight, then possibly sieze. Hope it all works out

Will be fine for low 300's

agreed, any 272's with good lift will be ideal, to make the most of the redline you want, youll probably need oversize valves and a good head job

Upon closer look, there is a flange on the second photo, its just the angle of the photo

with the correst injectors, the standers regulator will be fine, 700cc will be plenty

big end conrod caps could be on backwards