Adriano

TBH you have to wonder about the workshop that recommended some of this build. IE a new rear end, then fot it with a new crown and pinion and trd centre,new auto sent off to be built. seems like a lot of new parts that didnt even get on the car

dragging with an auto, even a manual civic is going to get a better start off the line. Quoted for stupidity

Having built plenty of supercharged falcon/commodores, i dont really rate them. A centrifical blower has a boost curve that goes up linearly, the more you rev it the more boost. Unfortunately that means if you want 15psi at 7500, you have to gear it then live with 10psi at 5000, which means you are close to 100rwkw behind a similarly sized tuebo setup at those revs. Centrifugal blowers got you out of the hole, but are horribly inefficient, power hungry and once again if you want top end you need a blower the size of the slab of beer your wife drinks nightly.

If you want to run the itb's then you have to make a flange, can be done easily with a jigsaw if need be. The problem compared to the link above is that the rb25 runners curve a lot more and earlier than the rb20 ones. IMO an adapter plate is easier. If you are going to weld, simply mount the head flange to a head or a piece of plate steel to reduce the warping, thouhg you will still have to get it surface ground.

How did you diagnose that it was the ecu or AFM

I would definately go the rb30 bottom end with a mild steel wheel highflow

Yeah, because the cops never know to look for that, just move it to the inner guard behind the bumper

Is it mechanical or electric?

If it was my car, i wouldnt bother building the motor, just run it with the gear you have and see what you like and dont like. Daniel, what can you attribute the extra 50hp from the ecu change?

" and anytime you do any performance mod in the future it will probably cost less than $100 " Dont think so...

I agree with rolls, however dont skimp to save the extra few $$$, check all the hoses and clamps etc... one blown heater hose and you are back where you started.

TBH if you have to run it on 240v, just pull a kettle apart and use the immersion heater, 2400w, reliable and about $10

Part number?

No, not really, there os about 3mm between the crossmember and the sump

Ive got an innovate lc-1 too close to the turbo, and it throws a code and turns off whenever i give it some stick

I would probably just buy a neo squirter, otherwise its a gamble when you pull the sump off should be fine to drive, as long as the oil light doesnt come on, and you dont track it.

From the sounds of it th ebit snapped off the cam is still in the cas, i would remove the broken bit, and you will be able to see which way it goes.

Sorry i see standard injetors, are they turbo injectors, what fuel pump?

It could be the timing, as in a lower gear it can spike more than a higher gear, due to the ramp rate. It may then hit a cell which causes it to knock, and once an engine starts knocking they tend to keep knocking till you back off. However it could be injector warning, what injectors are you running?

"How much are the omp seats" If you have to ask...

Sounds like it was a great car, shame to see it being parted

Is the aem a 4 channel or 8 channel, and would you consider seperating?

I guess the next question is Martin, are you going to sell street legal cages?

Power FC received, i dont think bruno has been on here lately, so he probably hasnt got your PM.

I wouldnt wait, go and see a solicitor, then see what he recommends.