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Adriano

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Everything posted by Adriano

  1. If its reading 0v, then its a broken solder joint, not being dirty, just take the lid off(cut the silicon) resolder and reseal, done good for another 20 years
  2. Have a look through the rb26 thread at the top of the page, should give you an idea of what can be done. Use the search feature for any questions, they have all been asked many times.
  3. How much bigger is the pin? Not doubting, but i cant see how people are fitting stock gears if the pin is bigger, any more than a 2 thou inteferance fit, and you will be smashing the gears on with a hammer, which i cant see people doing. Maybe the design of the cams has changed?
  4. Dont hook it into the charcoal canister hose, the bosst reading is too inaccurate, the bov hose will make it run more boost, and being after the throttle, can cause some running issues. Just screw a fitting into the piping just after the turbo
  5. It will be fine, just dont expect it to run the best if you still have an AFM. PS my other car runs 20psi, has done for 10 years without a BOV, so it cant be that bad for the turbo
  6. Just run it in 4th. Basically you want to run it in as high a gear as you can without overspeeding the dyno, as this reduces the torque at the axle reducing the chance of wheelspin. Also 4th is 1:1, so there is less stress/heat generated in the gearbox.
  7. Hwt ecu, could it be in the tune?
  8. Yes, but if you remove the plugs, you can see if the inlet valves are leaking. How do you know it is running lean?
  9. Consider djetro sold, pm sent
  10. Gee they pull a few amps, hence why a wiring upgrade with a relay is a good ides. What fuse does the fuel pump run?
  11. If you are worried, pull the cams out and the plugs and try again, should rule out the inlet valves. However you say there is a leak making it run lean. Pretty much a leak will always make it run rich, unless it is on the inlet manifold, and even then only under vacuum, boost it will still run rich
  12. I put an rb26 exhaust cam in the neo 25/30 i built, just shim it and your done
  13. Exactly, i would be looking for an sleeve bearing 3076 with a .82 or 1.06 exhaust housing, should eb able to get a good one for $500
  14. It will make great boost from about 1000-1500 rpm, then the motor will ose over and end up making almost no power at about 3500
  15. I cant see any turbo running out of efficiency at 14psi. I would be looking at the engine health with a comp test and then leakdown if necessary before even considering the problem.
  16. You can get them from nissan, but i would piss it off and fit an external one with a thermostat. The stockers are a common point of failure
  17. From the sounds of it i would suspect the fuel pump
  18. Even though you have to rotate the cam 30 degrees for the valve to start opening, #6 piston is also at tdc, and both valves are open.
  19. I would probably start by hitting the ecu again just to be sure thats the problem
  20. Does it have a consult port wired up, i would check trouble codes, and give up smoking
  21. 90% of the time it wil be fine, you just need to check the diameter of the o-ring vs the recess in the head gasket to ensure they dont overlap each other.
  22. Am i missing something, isnt it just easier to use the correct block?
  23. To be honest you will lose power everywhere except at about 7000+ rpm. The standard manifold is good for over 300rwkw, and your currnt turbo is only goood for about 220. Unfortunately rb20's need all the power they can get down low, and these manifolds have poor cylinder filling down low. But it looks like you are almost done, so i would keep going and do back to back power runs and see for your self
  24. They should have a gap, as the silicon joiner is to allow for movement
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