Adriano

I love how people assume that a big turbo will lean out the motor and cause detonation, when with the stock ecu the opposite will occur,

Do show, where is your build thread?

What makes you say the 35mm w/g wont be suitable, the turbo that came with that kit isnt much smaller than what you have. Whats the minimum boost you want to run. My 50mm on HKS manifold would happily run down to 10 psi with a bigger turbo than a 3076

Just out of interest, does anyone know how much you could be hit up for by customs on a $20k motor in gst and duty?

Are you going to complain about sloppy head?

It would probably end up cheaper to make a new schmick airbox and sell the arc one

But in theory a 30 should be worse for bending valves, as the higher rod/stroke ratio increases piston dwell around tdc, and the increased capacity means you can fit more gnomes.

I guess a price would help, $8000

After owning this for 3 1/2 great years, this car has proven to be exceptionally reliable. Black on silver, i would rate the body as an 8/10, only body flaws are a few scratches on the corner of the rear bar, and a little key mark around the locks(thanks to my 2 year old) The only issue we have had with the car was the common roof rust, but the rust was fully removed, treated, welded gal painted and the roof resprayed professionally in 2 pac. An electric sunroof was fittead at the same time. We bought the car having 112,000k and the timing belt and water pump were replaced by the car yard as a precautionary measure. Apart from routine servicing i have fitted a set of evo3 lifters as the stock rvr ones are notorious for getting noisy. The injectors were cleaned about 40,000k ago. The ecu has been remapped to improve power and economy. Currently has october 23 rego in NSW and 177,000k. Rear tyres are fairly new Heavy Duty Tow bar Reversing sensor Immobiliser Factory bulbar Factory Driving lights are included, however one has a cracked lens(not fitted) I can be contacted on 0423 328 738, or email <script language=JavaScript type=text/javascript> \n [email protected] <script language=JavaScript type=text/javascript> This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it <script language=JavaScript type=text/javascript> , or PM. Please contact me for photos, as i dont seem to be having any luck attaching th Only selling as i have bought a business that includes a vehicle. </SPAN>

And yet soo many crack pistons at way less power.

The lag on a standard rb26 will only last as long as they take to blow it up

3076 .63 with water meth will get 420rwhp with the best response, but you will have to spend a fair bit setting it up 3076 .86 will m,ake a bit more 3582 will be laggier, and a .63 wont make much more power.

Is it idling high? Have you checked the ignition timing, as if it is overly retarded, then the ecu will be trying to raise the idle causing high AFM voltages, though it shouldnt run that rich

Dont take this the wrong way, but 160k car, $80 stands, ive seen them break

JUst biuld a boat instead, the ze would be a good anchour

Have you measures the lead resistance, i would say #4 fouling is more likely related to an ignition problem than overfuelling.

Sorry trent, would have to disagree on this one, mitsu ecu's are far more powerful than the nissan rb ecu's. SInce when does nissan have lean spool, which is an rpm/time/load dependant feature, active(knock monitered) ignition mapping on individual load points, and a total knock count ingition map trim?And mivec of course

I agree, since i started playing with late model evo's, my thoyughts on spool a/f have changed. I no linger have any dramas tuning my cars to run 14.5 at 2psi, and 13.5 at 5 psi, this is dependent on the car and mods though obviously.

R for race?

A stagea rs4 auto will do that

AN air leak at the throttle body shouldnt effect the running as its map sensor, idle will just go up. Has it been running right after th eecu install?

I assumed it has the AVO nissan "style" exhaust housing, hence the price

I made one of those tach adapters after finding out they are $200. Just wired two relay coils and two diodes, $5 happy days

Hopefully it isnt the cropped version.The results seem good for the boost being run. IMO there is no advantage having the 4" intake as opposed to the 2.75". Pretty much all the other bits needed are common knowledge for fitment. How much was it?

Can you adjust the voltage vs temp? Im assuming its a d-jetro. I would consider fitting a different sensor, as i know on an r32 they are the same sensor as the water temp sensor.