Adriano

Thats because the bushing in the housing moves which is what locates the flapper.

Yes, but getting it in the bay is another thing

If its the saem as the uk test, then they dont enable launch or traction control on any of the cars.

Is it $1500 for the tune, or is there something else included?

Not 100% sure, but i think the 911 variable turbo like the bmw turbos are variable a/r one the comp housing.

I think the video is a bit of a crock. Im willing to bet some of the genuine turbos blow the same way. And a comp wheel blowing isnt going to go through the floor of the bus anyway. Any way unfortunately the variable turbos at this stage cannot handle the exhaust temps that petrol produce. Although they may last a while on e85.

The rb26 knock sensors are m8 x 1.25

I would stay off it if you want the oil pump to last. Does it have a stock motor/turbo, if so there is no point revving it anywhere near that.

I would fit some high tensile cap screws, thats the main problem with the cheap gears

I has a similar problem with a smaller kkr, had to replace teh exhaust housing as the bushing for the wastegate arm was faulty and was jamming the flapper

thats why he is using the vg30 ecu, it has VCT control. The stock injectors will run out around 220rwkw unless you bump the fuel pressure up.

Although with the stock maps, or good aftermarkey mapping of th estock ecu, there is no way it will knock on the low octane map, its a hell of a lot better than what a pfc or most aftermarket ecu's do

If you want real gains that is street frendly, then look up mafia's water methanol setup. You will see 30rwkw gain, if tuned correctly, and can fill the 4litre resevoir up for about $4. Unfortunately the air con setup will never work. Think about the internal volume of the car about 50 cubic feet. It takes a few minutes to cool that volume of air down 15deg. A turbo at full noise will pump out 600 cubic feet air per minute. The air con going flat out with perfect heat transfer will drop the intake temps by about .2deg.

Im just wondering how the 2876 is a bolt on when it has a t28 exhaust flange, wheras the rb20 manifold has a t3 bolt flange, which are different, unless you have an hks exhaust housing.

It will run about 10-11 psi, the boost always goes up with these when you fit a turbo back exhaust.

I believe the stroke is the same asa the rb30. It has been done by someone on here. From what i gather its a massive job with head bolts in different spots, water and oil galleries not lining up etc. Would be a good start if you want to make over 1200hp, otherwise its not really needed. I would speak to rips, as im sure they have looked down this alley to see if its worthwhile.

I dont think they are z32 internals in 65mm body, as then they wouldn't have the same voltage curve as the z32. I did some sums a while back using the voltage curves/airflow, and it certainly appeard that r32 gtr and z32 used the same sensor but the bigger housing gave it the extra resolution.

If you mean the housing they are a cast iron alloy

Sure it wasn't being used as a coffee pump?

How does the garret fit fine on the rb20, when they have different flanges?Are you sure its a 2876? I have a 2876 and IMO they are a mismatch of wheels Who know why garret fitted a comp wheel capable of over 320rwkw to a small turbine wheel and housing which struggle to make the shaft torque to spin said comp wheel while giving high exhaust backpressure. If the rb25 highflow will make 240rwkw on an rb25 then it will make almost the same on an rb20, just require more revs to do it.

Couldn't disagree more that it acts the same as a map sensor when it maxes out. If the boost goes higher or spikes, or you get cooler weather, then the maxed AFM cant do anything, which will result in leaning out, wheras a map will still work as intended

I would try thicker ones, as they will take up some of the clearance that obviously exists for whatever reason

18 psi on a conservative tune will see over 300rwkw

Have you actually tried to cantrol the cam timing variably with the pwm setup, im pretty sure it wouldnt work due to the hydraulic setup. As i said i would look at evo stuff, as the siemens cam pulleys i think are electric.

Pull the spring out and see if it still overboosts