Adriano

To gain a significant advantage in resolving the problem you are having, the afm's have to be after the intercooler, as the air still bounces in the hot pipes. YOu will almost certainly have to make metal housings for the afm's if you want to run serious boost, as the housings crack. IMHO doing a plumback setup will be far less work and less likely to get you a defect..

Is there a reason you dont want a bov, that will be the cause of the issues.

I would have expected more than 14.5kw difference for 3 psi boost.

Personally i would run a second hard line to the front. Bundy tube is cheap as, and you would only need to buy 4 fittings to do it.

Did i say most?

Lots of factory setups use location 2, im guessing due to the lower flow at that point.

So what broke, metal or porcelain?

Is the wastegate flap cover passages for both sides of the housing. You may want to look at upgrading to an rb25 manifold, as they are a little bit better than the rb20 ones if my memory serves me correctly.

Rb 30e wont come close to clearing the bonnet, as the sohc head is heaps taller than the dohc head. I also doubt you could get it engineered, as the rb30e is a 86-87 motor, what year is the cefiro?

Curious, is this internal wastegate?

Which cams did you end up getting

Will the turbo fit in the glovebox?

Dont see how silicon joiners will help you with the drivers side, unless you buy a longer silicon elbow to replace the rubber pipe that goes to the plenum

Your 044 shouldnt outflow your stock lift pump, as there is no pressure working against the lift pump, if it does, the problem will be worst at idle, as the 044 will flow the most then, due to the low fuel pressure at idle, so it shouldnt be dangerous to test.

Yes, it will be fine

When you say it is tuned, what is there to tune, surely not the boost controller

Its really not a drama to drill and tap the top tensioner hole with the engine together

Collar cannot be fitted with the crank in, as the original oil pump drive has to be machined off.

If you dont like the price dont buy them, they are far cheaper than you will find them new

There is absolutely no need to upgrade rods at that power level. You could upgrade pistons, especially if the bores are a bit worn. I would pull the crank out and have it linished with a crank collar fitted. There is no point fitting a new pump without a collar. You could fit an aftermarket balancer to improve the life of the pump. If it doesn't see excessive revs/rev limiter then the n1 pump with a collar should last fine. OIl restritors are about the only thing i would add apart from the new bearings of course.

Are you anywhere near rips, i would take it to them. If you can put up screen shots of the settings in the software then it will make it easier.

I hope you aren't serious. "valve overlap" good one

About 14 thou would be standard, much more than this with new rings would indicate excessive bore wear.

You obvoiusly know what you are talking about

Sorry my bad, just dont like to see stuff falsly advertised, which yours clearly isnt.